3-knob Fuzz Layout for newbz?

[DJPsychic]

You have a stereo input jack but a guitar jack (plug) is mono. The battery negative is connected to the ring connection on the input, and there is a connection between the input ground lug ("sleeve") and the circuit board via that pink L2 wire. When you insert the guitar jack into the socket, it bridges the ground/sleeve and ring contacts and connects the battery negative terminal to the circuit. The +9v red wire from the battery is permanently connected to the circuit, but the power circuit is only completed when you have a guitar cable plugged into the input: This prevents the battery from draining when not in use (IF you always remember to unplug the input cable when you finish playing).

cool. works great.

any idea why when I turn my body I completely lose signal?

[nocentelli]

Intermittent connection somewhere, almost guaranteed.

[DJPsychic]

If you're concerned about popping, you shouldn't wire it up like that. Grounding the input in bypass is hardly any more effort and the superior way achieving true bypass.

Correct. It's my fault. I just took any 3PDT bypass image from Google to show how you could omit the status LED part.
It were better if I had choosen one with input (and output) grounding.
So, here you go:


Or

Sorry to bring up an old topic, but Would I be able to use this switch configuration on a sun face?



If I wanted to omit LED could I just leave out or would I have to use this version

[DJPsychic]

Quick update (not that you anyone cares) but I got my FF variant up and running and it sounds great. Went with a fairy simple classic FF, with the inpute bias knob.

One last question, is the switching configuration I used (pictured) considered true bypass?

I know this may be a dumb question but someone earlier mentioned an alternative switch being "superior". Everything works fantastic just making sure it truly is TB

Thank you everyone for your guidance. I'll post a demo in the near future. I named it the "Fuzz Bone" 

[iainpunk]

Quick update (not that you anyone cares) but I got my FF variant up and running and it sounds great. Went with a fairy simple classic FF, with the inpute bias knob.

One last question, is the switching configuration I used (pictured) considered true bypass?

I know this may be a dumb question but someone earlier mentioned an alternative switch being "superior". Everything works fantastic just making sure it truly is TB

if there is a direct path between the input and output when switched off, its true bypass, the only other option i know is buffered bypass, where, when in mypass, the input goes to a buffer circuit on a circuit board first before going out.

[j_flanders]

the only other option i know is buffered bypass,

He's referring to this  'other option':

If you're concerned about popping, you shouldn't wire it up like that. Grounding the input in bypass is hardly any more effort and the superior way achieving true bypass.