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Started by PRR, March 28, 2020, 04:38:46 PM

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PRR

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amptramp

Just for kicks, you could always download the NASA 5300.4 soldering spec:

http://everyspec.com/NASA/NASA-General/NHB_5300--4(3A-1)_7148/

This is 83 pages of entertainment.  The characters are a bit stereotyped but the plot is good.

antonis

Step 2 is a bit clouded, Paul.. :icon_wink:

Add solder where exactly..?? On part, on tip or on pad?



"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Digital Larry

I'll add my own few pointers.

a) I know that the prevailing wisdom is to heat the pin and then let the heat of the pin melt the solder.  I heat the pin but almost always start the solder melting by touching it to the iron tip.  For some reason it takes way longer if you expect the pin to start the solder melting.  I might even keep the iron on the pin a little afterwards to make sure it has flowed properly.  Interesting that in step 2, the solder is behind the pin and so it seems like they weren't too sure about it themselves.

b) Grainy/lumpy solder surface = bad, smooth/shiny = good.  Mostly found when you're trying to hold a wire in place while soldering, e.g. on a pot lug, and it moves a little while the solder cools.  Keeping things from moving while the solder cools is important and so using a clamp/jig is highly recommended.
Digital Larry
Want to quickly design your own effects patches for the Spin FV-1 DSP chip?
https://github.com/HolyCityAudio/SpinCAD-Designer