Beginner DMM suggestion

Started by Phend, May 28, 2020, 03:02:04 PM

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Phend

For a beginner I suggest investing in a DMM with capacitor and transistor measuring.  Granted the Hfe function is questionable, you can do matching.  Not talking Fluke like many of you have, I have a $20 unit that works fine for my limited knowledge.  I like it and find it as valuable as the soldering iron.  (Not a Vulcan iron that PRR in Maine uses, that is for logic IC circuits)
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antonis

So, your nice and clear suggestion is the " $20 unit "... :icon_lol:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Phend

I am not recommending or trying to sell this DMM.
Just a note as to what I purchased and it works for me. So for what it is worth. ($23.99)

From Amazon: (Currently unavailable, but there are others like it)

HOLDPEAK HP-770T Digital Multimeter 6000 Counts TRMS DMM CATIII 1000V,Auto Ranging,Data Hold,NCV,AC/DC Amp Ohm Volt Meter hFE Diode LED Capacitor Tester with Thermometer and Backlit
Sold by: HOLDPEAK
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PRR

There are really only a few DMM makers for all the <$50 DMMs. They do contract-production with any logo and feature-set the buyer wants. The guts are 99% the same, minus features to make a low-price model; the wires and packaging probably can be ordered deluxe, good, or cheap-cheap.

The ones I have tried have been pretty much worth the price paid.

__I__ like single-purpose tools. The combo chainsaw/toenail-trimmer is awkward. A VTVM is really an excellent meter for older gear. You can learn a lot about a transistor by understanding the Ohms function. But sure, 2 cents/meter more code tells numbers for caps and transistors, why not?
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amptramp

I have an AideTek DM4070 which is strictly a component measuring device.  It measures resistance with 20 ohm to 20 megohm ranges, inductance with 200µH to 20 H ranges and capacitance with 200 pF to 2000 µF ranges and I use it to measure every device before I solder it in.  This means I don't need a capacitance or inductance range on a DMM.

As for DMM's, be sure the resistance scale does not top out at 2 megohms like many of them do because that puts a lot of LFO resistors out of measurement range.  I have two meters I normally use, one with a 20 megohm top range and another with a 30 megohm top range.  I have some lesser DMM's plus a Heathkit IM-28 VTVM and a variety of analog meters, both low-impedance and high-impedance.  In many older pieces of equipment, the service information says "voltages measured with a 20,000 ohm/volt meter" and measuring with a high-impedance meter will show higher voltages.

Some of my meters have an hfe scale but I also have a dedicated meter for that purpose.

What else would be useful?  I could use a meter for high-value electrolytics that also measured ESR (equivalent series resistance).

I have a number of bridges for component measurement - a Leader LCR 740, A Heathkit IB-5281 and a Heathkit IB-2A, the first two powered by a 9 volt battery and the last operating from line power.  I used to have an EICO 950B but its capacitance scale was off - capacitors would read 70% of actual value and a similar Conor bridge but I have better instruments so I sold them at the London Vintage Radio Club which is also where I bought all of these bridges.  Another acquisition from the LVRC was a combination power supply/bridge/multimeter/resistance substitution box that I got for the princely sum of $2, a fraction of the value of its 6E5 tuning eye tube and it was all in excellent condition with only the main dial for the bridge missing.

anotherjim

I thought I got a good DMM recently. Well, it is pretty good but the ohms/diode/continuity beep are all on the same spot on the selector dial and you have to repeat button press to get to the function you want. If you leave it long enough, it gets bored and shuts down to save battery - and forgets what function you'd set and defaults to ohms. This makes it a royal PITA as a fault-finding tool which is a shame 'cause it's otherwise perfect.

I can't get rid of my cheapo generic "yellow peril" yet, of which this is one such...
https://www.cdlmicro.co.uk/dmm-yel-digital-voltmeter-ampmeter-multimeter-ac-dc-meter-ohms-tester-checker-yellow.html
Note the cheapest may not have continuity beep which is something I find essential and that it's on the same position as the diode test is actually very useful.


composition4

Is the Aidetek unit good then? Have been looking at it just for a quick way to measure components before soldering, just like you mentioned.

Kevin Mitchell

I'd say any budget mutimeter with a frequency setting is right for ya.

-KM
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Phend

Yes I looked at the Aide tek. On Amazon they have a few models under $40.
The HoldPeak I have has the continuity beep which is very useful, the beep is loud.
I also bought the "bulk" greenie capacitor kit, electrolytic cap kit and 1% resistor kit.
The price of the kit(s) is close to the price of getting a few individual pieces.
So for a beginner I now have 100's of components of many values.
Then with my "inexpensive" DMM you can quickly match / measure.
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bluebunny

I have a Vici VC99, which I think Mark C.  or Jimi recommended (can't remember...).  Can't fault it.  Not expensive either.
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

amptramp

One of my more interesting meters is a talking DMM that is useful if you have to hold both probes and can't stretch around to read the LCD.  I use it with some of my older tube equipment where I have to hold the probes on locations that are different and I can't prop the DMM up where I can see it.  You just push a button on the positive probe and it tells you the voltage.

stallik

When my ?20 year old Fluke display failed, I replaced the meter with a Uni-T From Maplin (it was on offer) Been well pleased. Clearing the garage during lockdown, I stumbled on the old fluke and repaired it. Both meters give readings within a gnatsdickswidth. Still use the Uni-T. Must be habit.
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. Albert Einstein

Phend

Though must say you can't beat the old Simpson with the needle and mirror.  Had to line up the needle with the mirror to get an accurate reading using the six or so different scales.  Don't recall if it could talk. But do recall talking to it!
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toneman

Yeh, I have a fluke 77 that I bought over 20yrs ago...still use it.

but,

Harbor Freight used to offer "free with any purchase" a yellow DMM with transistor tester.

Don't see them free any more....

They are red now, and come with batteries.
I have several yellow and several red.
GREAT for stocking stuffers and secret santas---

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html

the transistor tester is comperable to my old old B&K transistor tester--It only did ONE thing!!!! :P
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Rob Strand


QuoteI can't get rid of my cheapo generic "yellow peril" yet, of which this is one such...
https://www.cdlmicro.co.uk/dmm-yel-digital-voltmeter-ampmeter-multimeter-ac-dc-meter-ohms-tester-checker-yellow.html
Note the cheapest may not have continuity beep which is something I find essential and that it's on the same position as the diode test is actually very useful.
I've got one of those but it's an 830C with the temperature not the transistor test.   I call it my kamikaze meter, I use it where it there's a chance of the meter getting damaged.   The meter is 1997 vintage and it has gold contacts on the PCB for the switch - I suspect that wont be the case on the modern versions.   It's got calibration pots inside so I've re-calibrated it against a better meter and it measures fine.  The accuracy is limited unlike the modern meters which seem to have much better specs in practice than on paper (if you get a good one  ;D) as Stalik noted.    I guess my beefs with the yellow bandits are very flimsy terminals, dismal leads and the lowest AC range is only 200V (and not very accurate).

I've mentioned many times the problem with cheap meters is the sockets and the switches.   Cheap meters don't hold-up long in the work place.   Cheaper meters with auto-ranging and push-buttons might be better off since that would reduce the amount of abuse/wear on the rotary switch.

At the end of the day any meter is better than none, but really, a meter with unreliable measurements caused by bad a switches is *really* annoying - believe me!
Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.

toneman

hey rob,
that's the exact same as the Harbor Freight (first version)dmm I was talking about.
HF was giving these away with a coupon that said "free with any purchase".
At the same time, they were for sale for $2.99.
Hven't seen a coupon for this, or the red one. for quite some time.
Prices have gone up everywhere at HF!!!
This looks like the yellow version--
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-830D-LCD-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohm-Digital-Multimeter-Battery-Leads-Electric/261091534418?epid=1361016942&hash=item3cca44a652:g:djEAAMXQlUNRSOhN

Here is the red version similar to what I have--
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cen-Tech-Meter-7-Function-Digital-Multimeter/254593519097?hash=item3b46f4cdf9:g:w8cAAOSw6qheuL3U

A small DC-coupled scope is even better than a DMM cause U can SEE the electrons (ok, maybe not "actual" electrons  :icon_biggrin:)
8)

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amptramp

Quote from: composition4 on May 29, 2020, 09:42:51 AM
Is the Aidetek unit good then? Have been looking at it just for a quick way to measure components before soldering, just like you mentioned.

Yes it is but I haven't used it very often.  Used it twice today already.

Rob Strand

QuoteHere is the red version similar to what I have--
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cen-Tech-Meter-7-Function-Digital-Multimeter/254593519097?hash=item3b46f4cdf9:g:w8cAAOSw6qheuL3U
It looks very similar but that one has a separate on/off switch.  Probably a good thing from a switch point of view since you aren't ratcheting the switch so much.

QuoteA small DC-coupled scope is even better than a DMM cause U can SEE the electrons (ok, maybe not "actual" electrons  :icon_biggrin:)
;D
Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.