Same beginner, another 4 pedals

[Marcos - Munky]

It should sounds kinda marshall-like.

That high pitch oscillation is usually related to wiring. High gain overdrives/distortions can be sensible to wiring. It's a nice idea to make the wires as short as possible.

Btw, I didn't boxed mine yet. Planning on doing it tomorrow, since I'll have a day off from work.

[ghiekorg]

i prepared the case first so that i won't have long wires... Also in a 1590A the are pretty short i guess
Let me know if you have the same issue.


In the meantime i prepared the Depths: it was a mess.
The "stamp" without heat was a total failure as the traces spread randomly creating a lot of shorts and i had to redraw half of them before etching. I was sure it wouldn't work. But it did!
The LDR/LED choice was also really annoying. The red one i used for the shoot the moon didn't really work nicely, same for the 0.2M LDR. In the end i went for green and 5M. This stuff about choosing what fits better is still a big question mark to me. It's complicated to understand how things workwith each other.
The casing/wiring was also a pain: i had shorts, low volumes, broken joints, non rotating knobs, pops, buzzes... everything you can imagine but slowly i managed to find the solution. Next time i have to remember to stay away from such packed layouts in small cases. I hate the boxing part... i always have so many problems with shorts. i had to put tape everywhere pretty much.
But what counts is the result, so here it is (i just have a problem with the voice knob: there is no effect when at the extremes, maybe the CLR?):


probably i will delete the handwriting and will buy a sticky printable sheet. It sucks like that haha

here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMd_Vm0OZGQ&ab_channel=ghiekorg

[ghiekorg]

So... another update:
I made the dimension P. All went smooth apart from soldering a pot the other way around and having a short when closing the case (you have to tell me how you do it because it happened to me almost every time 😕)



Clip: https://youtu.be/y6KCMq5VaPU


I also had a bit of time to test properly the little Jim and even though the hiss remains it's only present when the volume is on max, so perfectly usable.

https://youtu.be/KBFXTrBqwqs

[Marcos - Munky]

Do I need another chorus? No. Am I interested on building the Dimension P after watching your demo? Yeah!

The soundclips I heard on the Dimension P sounded pretty meh to me. I really didn't got why people said this was a great chorus. Your demo give it a proper justice.

On Little Jim, the noise will probably be gone if you use shielded wires. But since you won't be using it at the settings the noise happens, just leave it as it is.

I didn't finished mine yet. Some things came in the way (again), I took some time to change the strings of my guitar and proper regulate it, then I did the tone transfer to etch the Little Jim enclosure and a board for something I'll build, but tested a different kind of paper. Didn't got to transfer the board, and the LJ enclosure didn't got a really good tone transfer, so I got some glitches on the image when I etched it. I'm waiting for the paint to dry to see how it goes anyway. Then I'll drill the enclosure and probably finish it tomorrow.

[ghiekorg]

Oh thank you very much 😊 I just moved the knobs randomly haha but it's a really nice pedal. When I tried the first impression wasn't amazed. But then turning the knobs and playing with the switches you get so many sounds, crazy.

Let me see you LJ when you finish it. :-)  I had so many problems with decal and paint due to weather change and wind. I give up for now (also I finished the decals)

[Marcos - Munky]

Sure, I'll post the results when I finish it. The etch didn't came as good as I want, but it's still usable. I did a 2nd hand of paint (nail polish, actually ) and I'm waiting for it to dry so I can sand the excess.

[ghiekorg]

I also had problems with the LJ's board. I left it too long in the chloride and the it deleted my marker and the traces under it so I had to make a bridge with a piece of lead to connect 4 components). Also the lines where kinda thin.

I couldn't find anymore the page where I got the stuff for the dimensionP. I was searching today while building it. But probably if you search dimension P  1590B you can find it somewhere. I will send you the link if I find it. Schematics and layout are here I think on the thread

[11-90-an]

having a short when closing the case

some people cover the solder side of the board with some foam or anything that doesn't conduct electricity. A piece of cardboard can do fine.

[ghiekorg]

I usually put tape everywhere. On pots, enclosure, caps, led, DC Plug... but when I close the enclosure, if the parts are too tight, they with make holes in the tape and short.


I just finished the rebote.



It sound kinda ok, but the noise on repetition is really a lot to me:
https://youtu.be/vKEHUoJp21g
Is it normale to sound like that? I know 2399 are noisy but if that's the noise I guess I will just buy a commercial digital delay... (in reality is more noticeable than on the clip)
Thanks 😊

[bluebunny]

but when I close the enclosure, if the parts are too tight, they with make holes in the tape and short.

Trim your component leads closer to the board?  And don't use tape: it's too easy to poke something through.  There's still an abundance of clear plastic sheet used in all sorts of packaging which can be put to use here, rather than going to landfill.

[ghiekorg]

Nothing goes to landfill with me :-D I didn't throw away any bag I received so far, they are always useful. But when I don't need glue it could be a good idea, thanks.
I cut every lead with the scissors of a Swiss knife so I can go as short as possible. I guess the problem is more the projects I did. 2x 1590A, a 1590B with 5 knobs board mounted, another 1590B with the board above the jacks (it's the part I hate the most, I will have a look around about other versions, the open ones are so problematic every time...). If Hammond would make these boxes just 3/4 mm thicker I would not have a problem. :-D

[bluebunny]

Buy some wire cutters that have been designed for the job. 

[Ben N]

I just finished the rebote.



It sound kinda ok, but the noise on repetition is really a lot to me:
https://youtu.be/vKEHUoJp21g
Is it normale to sound like that? I know 2399 are noisy but if that's the noise I guess I will just buy a commercial digital delay... (in reality is more noticeable than on the clip)

Surprising. I recently built a Deep Blue Delay on an Aion pcb that also supports the Rebote 2.5 (very similar circuit), and there is no noticeable noise, although I confess that I never did a careful listen before putting it on my pedalboard, and I keep the mix fairly subtle. But I would try to do a troubleshoot before giving up on that. Do you have another PT to try in there? There is supposedly quite a bit of variability between chips.

[ghiekorg]

I tried 3 different 2399 but they all sound the same... I checked a bit on youtube and all the pt2399-based delays have noise, but mine seems a bit too much. As i understood there should be a filtering part in the circuit, maybe could be that? I am NOT advanced enough to understand that...
If you could test yours it would be good to do a comparison. Thanks

Edit: i meant to say i am not advanced enough, i forgot the "not"

[ghiekorg]

hi everone. I am trying to measure the current draw of the pedals but i always get the same result, which is kinda crazy i guess. I made this tool:

The green is the +, blue is the -.
To measure i set the multimeter on DC-Ampere and i touch the + contact on the female plug with the red tip while touching the wire coming from the male plug with the black. Every pedal i test is always 1.3 to 1.8. I even tried the Boss OC3, which should be around 45mA, and i still get 1.8. I remember doing this meauserment some days ago and all made sense. Could it be that my MM is gone or am i doing something wrong this time? thanks for your help

[duck_arse]

hi everone. I am trying to measure the current draw ..................
To measure i set the multimeter on DC-Ampere ........

V for Volts, A for Amperes. you can't measure the current with the meter set to volts.


[edit :] ahh, well, while the above is true, in my defense, I couldn't discern the dot on the handle. excuse, please.

[bluebunny]

It is sent to Amps (there's a marking on this end of the pointer), but it's set at the 10A position.  However, the lead isn't plugged into the 10A socket.  So use the next setting along (200mA).

[ghiekorg]

V for Volts, A for Amperes. you can't measure the current with the meter set to volts.

mmm i am on Ampere. The dot on the wheel is on 10A and the red tip is plugged in the VmAΩ (it says max 200mA) hole.  Maybe i didn't understand your message...

[ghiekorg]

It is sent to Amps (there's a marking on this end of the pointer), but it's set at the 10A position.  However, the lead isn't plugged into the 10A socket.  So use the next setting along (200mA).

Thank you bluebunny.
I tried to plug it in the 10A and also to use the 200mA but the result is always the same. Either 17 or 1.7 or 0.17... It just doesn't make sense. I know the OC3 consumes 50mA

[antonis]

Place Red probe to VmAΩ socket AND set pointer to 200mA scale..