angel v2 kit

Started by brujo, February 09, 2021, 07:01:00 PM

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brujo

Hi,I assembled this chorus,based on 2399,when the effect is off the signal pass-thru,but when turned on you can just listen  a constant popping which slow down as you unplug the 9v. what can I do?


iainpunk

welcome to the forum,

i guess its the LFO, but just to be proper, have you looked at this guide:
debugging guide

cheers, Iain
friendly reminder: all holes are positive and have negative weight, despite not being there.

cheers

brujo

Thank you for the reply and for welcome me  ;D

These are the schematics,it came as a kit so I did not make any changes.
https://www.musikding.de/docs/musikding/angel/AngelV2_schem.pdf

VR1 (78L06) in=9v gnd=0 out=6v
Q1 (J112) drain=0,42v  source=0 gate=0

IC1 (NE5532P)
1=can't say,change from 1 to 8 constantly
2=basically the same as 1
3=3,8-5,8
4=0
5=4,72
6=0
7=0
8=9,4

IC2 (PT2399)
1=6
2=3
3=0
4=0
5=5,2
6=0,42
7=0
8=0
9=3
10=3
11=3
12=3
13=3
14=3
15=3
16=3
I can add that on C8 I read more Voltage on negative leg.Probably IC1 is not ok?!

telll me if I did something wrong on this post and thanks again  :icon_redface:

antonis

"Something" pulls IC1b out down to GND..
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

PRR

> IC1 (NE5532P)
5=4,72
6=0
7=0


There is a hard short from pin 7 (or something connected to pin 7) to ground. Stray wire, solder ball, bent pin, something.


Bright light and magnifier.

(A '5532 can't pull its output ALL the way to its negative pin. Something must be "helping" it.)

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brujo

#5
Re checking the reading,now it is:
NE5532p
1=5
2=4,8
3=4,7
4=0
5=4,72
6=4,7
7=4,9
8=9,4

Thanks again for the help

brujo

OK some wires contact between pcb's...looks it sounds something but the signal it doesn't seem to be effected.You can ear ,added to it , a noise responding to depth and rate values;not a hum's kind even if the whole thing really is.

Marcos - Munky

What about some photos of both sides of the board?

brujo


KarenColumbo

Stupid question: did you isolate the back of the pots with "pot condoms" or adhesive strips?
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I see something of myself in everyone / Just at this moment of the world / As snow gathers like bolts of lace / Waltzing on a ballroom girl" - Joni Mitchell - "Hejira"

brujo

Nope :icon_redface:
Anyway the back of the pots don't touch the pcb,they Need It?

KarenColumbo

Just asking. They COULD touch eventually which could short some pins and cause mayhem
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I see something of myself in everyone / Just at this moment of the world / As snow gathers like bolts of lace / Waltzing on a ballroom girl" - Joni Mitchell - "Hejira"

ElectricDruid

Welcome Brujo! (Bienvenido?)

For the next build, fold the legs of the resistors before you put them through the holes so you can get them much closer to the board. There are special tools for this, but I just use small pliers. Once they're in, you can bend the legs outwards a little bit with your finger to stop them falling out, but you'll find that it keeps them tighter to the board and makes a neater job. You can do something similar for caps.

brujo

That's what I did  :icon_redface: (bending before) I used to know that they should not touch the pcbs. Honestly It was my first build and I admit, solder works here are pretty bad. Anyway It doesn't work... suggestions? Re-build it? What about c8 strange behaviour?
Really thanks to everybody.

Also I build a fuzzrite kit for a friend (guitarpcb's) It works. Pretty noisy,I don't like It verymuch. :icon_rolleyes:

anotherjim

Oh dear, another frozen LA!
PT2399 pins 5 & 6 should be nearer to 3v. The readings you have indicate the delay chips timing clock is frozen.

Can you remove T1 safely?
Do you have another PT2399 chip to try?

brujo

I don't have others pt2399 right now but I'm searching for them. T1 you mean the j112?

anotherjim

I would suggest temporarily replacing T1 (yes, the J112) with a resistor fitted across the S & D holes (or between PT2399 pins 6 and 4 ). Any resistor from 1k to 10k will do. Need to see if that will let the pins 5 & 6 run at better voltage.

While you're doing that, take the PT2399 out and put it on a conductive surface so all pins are shorted together. This can get rid of any internal static charge which tends to build up in this chip when there's been a fault.

You may need to replace the PT2399 & it would be wise to order a replacement. For this particular build, only having one PT2399 to use seems like going hunting and only bringing one shell for your gun! It's not that the PT2399 is unreliable, but this design pushes it to limits and then a bit more.







brujo

I'll try and let you know. Thank you very much for the help.
Cheers

brujo

#18
5=4,2-6
6=0,7
but it start working,but the LFO noise it's pretty present.

anotherjim

When you say its working, can you get chorus effect?
Which of the suggestions have you done?
I'd expect some LFO noise, because the LFO is in the same chip as the preamp, but it shouldn't be too big.