My phase 90 clone isn't working

Started by snow123, June 03, 2021, 05:04:09 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

snow123

When I plug in the phase 90 I built, I just get a hissing sound while it's bypassed, and when I turn it on, I just get a very high pitched feedback noise. For the parts I substituted, instead of 2n5952s, I used 2n5457s, instead of 2n4125s, I used a 2n4126, and instead of a spst toggle switched i used a dpdt switch. and that's it. Here's my wiring and stuff:

























I did check continuity and stuff and it looks decent, and I don't know the voltages that the parts are supposed to be, and the only issues I can think of rn are just bad parts or something.

snow123


snow123

and i do get 9v when the pedal is plugged it, and the led turns on and off when it should,

snow123

and i did check continuity between the transistor and IC legs, and where the sockets are soldered to the board and they are connected.

antonis

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

ElectricDruid

+1 what Antonis said. You've got lots of suspicious-looking blobs between the tracks.

Get a narrow flat screwdriver and run the blade along the groove between the tracks. You should be able to slide it all the way along. If you feel it "snag" on anything, you've got a problem you need to deal with. Many times the process of clearing the tracks like this is enough and the screwdriver alone will scrape away muck and bits of solder the are causing problems.




Mark Hammer

This is the part where I recommend giving the solder side a wee bit of a scrub using a toothbrush and some methyl hydrate to dissolve the solder flux.  Flux is good, but it can also make it more difficult to spot solder bridges.  If I have a board that is rather cramped, I'll do this first, to make visual inspection easier.

Apart from that, always good to confirm the pinouts of transistors from their specific manufacturers.  This is especially true of FETs.

snow123

#7
Is this better?




snow123

now when its turned off, it lets the full signal through without a hiss, but now when its on it makes a continuous popping sound, and the speed knob turns it on or off.

Mark Hammer

Does the rate of popping vary with the speed setting?

snow123


andy-h-h

Quote from: snow123 on June 03, 2021, 06:30:29 PM
Is this better?





This looks a bit suspect - along with the general area in the middle.   

Same question, different build  :D :  Voltages on semiconductors?




ElectricDruid

Quote from: snow123 on June 03, 2021, 06:30:29 PM
Is this better?

It's *better*, and from your report it's working better too, but there's still far too much muck between those traces, and that's reflected in the fact that although it's doing more, it's not working right.

Get the rubbish scraped out from between those tracks so there's clear daylight between one row of solder and the next.

duck_arse



I think the wire indicated is one row low, and grounding signal.
You hold the small basket while I strain the gnat.

snow123

Quote from: ElectricDruid on June 04, 2021, 05:15:27 AM
Quote from: snow123 on June 03, 2021, 06:30:29 PM
Is this better?

It's *better*, and from your report it's working better too, but there's still far too much muck between those traces, and that's reflected in the fact that although it's doing more, it's not working right.

Get the rubbish scraped out from between those tracks so there's clear daylight between one row of solder and the next.

how would i do that without damaging the tracks?

antonis

Desoldering braid or pump -> Copper brush -> Solder reflowing
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

ElectricDruid

Quote from: snow123 on June 04, 2021, 04:03:35 PM
how would i do that without damaging the tracks?

Just drag the end of a narrow screwdriver *between* the tracks. I use a small electrical screwdriver because the blade is the perfect size, but anything about right will do. It won't damage the tracks because it's not going down the tracks, it's going down the gaps *between* the tracks, and there shouldn't be anything there.

If you find you bump into something, something's up and that's when you need to move in with desoldering braid or a desoldering pump and remove a bit of solder so things can pass easily. Usually that's when the joints are too "blobby" - too much solder.




snow123


antonis

A small metal saw blade (6-8 mm height) of 0.8mm thicknes will do perfect job.. :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

snow123

now when i turn it on, it lets through a bit of a weaker dry signal.