dunlop uv1fc univibe foot controller... who gots one?

Started by pinkjimiphoton, August 28, 2021, 03:57:02 PM

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pinkjimiphoton

decided to resurrect my old all-analog guitar signal chain, and wanna add my crummy dunlop univibe into the mix, but sold the foot controller with another iteration of it a couple years ago.
as i recall, not much in the pedal itself other than a pot and a micro switch, should be relatively easy to recreate i'm hoping.
does anyone bychance have a couple gut shots they could post please? then maybe i can draw up a schematic for posterity and be done with it.
thanks in advance
unca panky
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pinkjimiphoton

well, since no reply was ever made, i said @#$% it last nite and took a quick crack at it.
not gonna bother with pics or a schematic or any of that shit cuz its way too simple to be bothered with.

all ya need is a b10k pot with a gear on it, a momentary nc switch, a crybaby shell, a trs jack and a bit of wire.

pin 3 of the pot and center pin of the switch goes to sleeve on the jack.
pin 2 of the pot goes to tip of the jack.

other pin of the switch goes to the ring connection of the jack.

mount in a crybaby shell. traditionally, you'd put the bypass switch in the heel of the treadle, which is relatively doable, but i opted instead to just use the position of the hole for the original switch. toe down, if the crybaby shell is reasonably tite,  there's enough wait to keep the bypass switch depressed. at least for now, til i find the proper switch for the heel.

works mint. gives the whole range of speed, and allows bypass full toe down <or heel down, but that's on you.>

hope this helps some poor sucker down the road.

onwards and upwards.
PjP
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"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

pinkjimiphoton

so i messed around with it. it was working p2p on a trs plug. but not in a shell.
turned out there was a real high impedance short in the hunk of mic cable i misappropriated. go figure.

so anyways, i tried a bunch of different switches, momentary .... for all intents you want the switch to break contact when toe down (heel down in the original dunlop one) but in the end i just recycled one of them three lugger switches from an old wah that was in the junk box.

the 10k pot wires wiper to ground and pin one (from back of pot, lugs up, the left one) goes to the tip connection of a trs jack.

the circuit is completed/vibe on when the ring is connected to the sleeve, so use a simple switch. i was gonna get all fancy like the original, but really, i kinda prefer the toe down turn it off thing on a vibe to the heel down.
i know i'm weird.

so one wire between ring and switch, and one between switch and ground, and you can turn the effect off and on, and control the speed.

i preferred the taper of the pot wired this way, but you may like the input to the wiper,  and lug 1 grounded. either will work about the same, but it seems the way indicated gives a smoother "hump" thru the most useful speeds.
i set it so with the switch depressed, i turned the gear back one tooth .. so i get most of the useful range of the pot, and quite fast when toe down without turning it off.

i played around with different things chasing that shorted cord that were interesting... the beeper in my meter showed no connectivity anywhere but where it should be. weird. weird. weird.

anyways, it works. i pulled it apart and stuck it in an old chrome ruby eq wah shell i had kicking around, and its gonna do the trick.
onwards n upwards, chillen



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"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

anotherjim

Hey Jimi, well done with the controller re-imagining.
That mic cable -  did it have an extra "insulation" layer on the hot & cold signal wires? Because that may be conductive plastic which does cause a high resistance short if it touches the solder tags or inner wire.

pinkjimiphoton

hey Jim!
yeah, it DID have that... removing it made the issue go away mostly, but today i redid it with better cable that
hadn't been recycled. big difference.
also moved the gear back just a bit to get a little more slow speed, still get plenty of fast. lowered the switch so ya really gotta squeeze it to actuate. works well. i should put one in the heel, but this works more than well enough for me.
hope ya are well bro!
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr