DC jack external vs internal

[matopotato]

I usually get DC jacks that have the screw/nut (?) go on from the inside of the pedal. It means once soldered in place, I have to de-solder in case I want to remove the circuit again.
I got a few external ones where the screw goes on on the outside, but the "internal" ones look a bit nicer and have a slightly smaller diameter/takes less space.
Does anyone have a good tip on how to avoid soldering in place until all is verified and still get the 9V in from the power bank/wall wart?
Maybe taping on a battery clip to the wires without soldering is the best way, but maybe some other type of crimp? tape? etc solution is out there.

[Mark Hammer]

Personally, I prefer the "outie" versus the "innie".  Not just because they are easier to install, but also because they take up less room internally, which affords more flexibility about where to install the power jack.

Consider using a small two-conductor Molex connector, in-line, that would let you simply unplug the power jack from the board, as well as install it, on its own, and then easily connect it to the board.

[vigilante397]

I use these when I'm verifying circuits that aren't ready to be permanently boxed yet. They have screw terminals so no soldering/desoldering necessary. Once the circuit has been verified I just loosen the screws, throw the board in the box, and solder up the actual jack. The only thing to keep in mind is that these jacks are center positive polarity, so you need to swap the +/- on the terminals when using a center negative pedal power supply.

[matopotato]

I use these when I'm verifying circuits that aren't ready to be permanently boxed yet. They have screw terminals so no soldering/desoldering necessary. Once the circuit has been verified I just loosen the screws, throw the board in the box, and solder up the actual jack. The only thing to keep in mind is that these jacks are center positive polarity, so you need to swap the +/- on the terminals when using a center negative pedal power supply.

Thanks, will try and find one.

[matopotato]

Personally, I prefer the "outie" versus the "innie".  Not just because they are easier to install, but also because they take up less room internally, which affords more flexibility about where to install the power jack.

Consider using a small two-conductor Molex connector, in-line, that would let you simply unplug the power jack from the board, as well as install it, on its own, and then easily connect it to the board.

Thanks.
My "outies" tend to be big, but found one same as "innie"
Molex is a good option if I can't track down the one in the recent picture.

[Rodgre]

I use these when I'm verifying circuits that aren't ready to be permanently boxed yet. They have screw terminals so no soldering/desoldering necessary. Once the circuit has been verified I just loosen the screws, throw the board in the box, and solder up the actual jack. The only thing to keep in mind is that these jacks are center positive polarity, so you need to swap the +/- on the terminals when using a center negative pedal power supply.

Thanks, will try and find one.

Search for Velleman connectors. I use these regularly as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-CD022-5-5X2-1mm-Screw-Terminal/dp/B00GULAXYG

Roger

[Kevin Mitchell]

For this reason I use a 2-pin wafer connectors to connect power jacks to my boards.

[ElectricDruid]

This looks very cool, and I might try and find one and give it a try, but another option no-one has mentioned is simple crocodile clips on the power leads. It's not anything like permanent, but it's ok for testing. Once you know it's ok, you can box it up and solder the DC jack up.

[matopotato]

This looks very cool, and I might try and find one and give it a try, but another option no-one has mentioned is simple crocodile clips on the power leads. It's not anything like permanent, but it's ok for testing. Once you know it's ok, you can box it up and solder the DC jack up.

Thanks!
But how to connect crocs to the wall wart dc plug?

[ElectricDruid]

This looks very cool, and I might try and find one and give it a try, but another option no-one has mentioned is simple crocodile clips on the power leads. It's not anything like permanent, but it's ok for testing. Once you know it's ok, you can box it up and solder the DC jack up.

Thanks!
But how to connect crocs to the wall wart dc plug?

You've got 2.1mm sockets for your pedal projects already, right? And a soldering iron? So all you're missing is wire and crocodile clips! Basically what I'm suggesting is building a thing a bit like Vigilante posted, except with croc clips wired to the socket instead of screw terminals. To be honest, you could build something like he posted with screw terminals using a bit of mains lighting terminal strip and a basic jack socket wired in the other side. It should be dead simple. Don't let's make this complicated.

[matopotato]

This looks very cool, and I might try and find one and give it a try, but another option no-one has mentioned is simple crocodile clips on the power leads. It's not anything like permanent, but it's ok for testing. Once you know it's ok, you can box it up and solder the DC jack up.

Thanks!
But how to connect crocs to the wall wart dc plug?

You've got 2.1mm sockets for your pedal projects already, right? And a soldering iron? So all you're missing is wire and crocodile clips! Basically what I'm suggesting is building a thing a bit like Vigilante posted, except with croc clips wired to the socket instead of screw terminals. To be honest, you could build something like he posted with screw terminals using a bit of mains lighting terminal strip and a basic jack socket wired in the other side. It should be dead simple. Don't let's make this complicated.

Thanks, think I got it.
Right, no need to complicate things. I guess English not being my native language makes me re-ask things a bit much.
Cheers

[ElectricDruid]

I guess English not being my native language makes me re-ask things a bit much.

No problem. If you're not sure, ask. We can alway try and make things clearer.

Aside from the language thing, there's people with a lot of different experience levels on this site too, so sometimes people post something and assume more background knowledge than the asker might actually have. The only way to know is for people to query things they don't understand, so don't worry about it.

[matopotato]

I guess English not being my native language makes me re-ask things a bit much.

No problem. If you're not sure, ask. We can alway try and make things clearer.

Aside from the language thing, there's people with a lot of different experience levels on this site too, so sometimes people post something and assume more background knowledge than the asker might actually have. The only way to know is for people to query things they don't understand, so don't worry about it.

Thanks! No worries 

[matopotato]

Check 😉
Thanks @vigilante397 for the tip

[Lino22]

I like the internal nut way better:
1. The nut is plastic and won't get loose.
2. You won't scratch the paint while tightening it.

If this is meant just for one project, you won't destroy it by heat.
Just solder a wire on each lug, and use them till you are happy with it

[matopotato]

I like the internal nut way better:
1. The nut is plastic and won't get loose.
2. You won't scratch the paint while tightening it.

If this is meant just for one project, you won't destroy it by heat.
Just solder a wire on each lug, and use them till you are happy with it

Thanks, nuts are metal on both of my inner and outer ones.

EDIT: Just realized what you meant by plastic. Pls ignore my comment above.

[matopotato]

All pimped up and ready to serve.