MBP 2022 Collosalus Build Issues

[Juan1]

I've built 10 pedals or so from kits, but this is my first pedal built from just a circuit board and directions.  After double checking all of the components, and fixing some sloppy soldering (I was good at soldering back when I was using leaded solder!) I am having some issues. 

1. The directions say to set the bias so that the signal is at its cleanest at TP2.  Is that right?  I set the bias so that the signal was the most flange-y.

2. The strength of the flange isn't as strong as the one demo'd on YouTube. 

3. I lack an oscilloscope, but used the 33pf cap to up the clock speed over what the directions called for.

4. There are a few IC pins that don't appear to get used in the schematic that are out of spec. The out of spec pins are:

IC6 Pins 2 and 3 - around 1V, should be 4.3V.
IC7 Pin 5 - 7.4, should be 4.6
IC8 Pins 13 & 16 - measures in mV, should be 4.9 and 11.4

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/FilterMod/pdf/Collosalus2022.pdf

5. The Manual pot doesn't appear to do much.  I think this is related to the weak flange level, but it could be unrelated.

[duck_arse]

Juan - please be posting photos of your build. also, all valotages on all pins of IC's, because ...... it's good manners, and provides more info.

IC6 - as you know, we do NOT allow unused opamps to be left unconnected. it should be terminated same as IC6B, with "some" voltage at its input.

IC7 - that terrible circuit diagram. it has a mechanical depiction of the flipflop instead of electrical, AND it's reversed. but it shows pin 5 connected to pin 2. and the 4049. be we don't know your voltages on those pins, cause you haven't posted them.

and IC8 - pins 13 and 16 are shown as NC on the datsheet I viewed, so there would be no reading of some volts there. those pins don't show on the circuit diagram [nowhere I can see, anyway], so they can't be expected to read some volts.

more info needed.

[Juan1]

I apologize if my manners were poor.  Here are the voltages.  As things stand now, the pedal works, but I do wish the sounds could get a bit more extreme.  When I took these readings the trimmers are where I thought the pedal sounded good, and the knobs were full CCW.

Power in reads 17.91

IC1
Pin 1 - 6.99 (7.37 actual)
Pin 2 - 6.99 (7.37)
Pin 3 - 6.7 (6.99)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 7.58 (7.41)
Pin 6 - 7.58 (7.39)
Pin 7 - 7.64 (7.46)
Pin 8 - 15.28 (14.92)

IC2
Pin 1 - 7.62 (7.47 actual)
Pin 2 - 7.62 (7.47)
Pin 3 - 7.61 (7.45)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 7.58 (7.43)
Pin 6 - 7.62 (7.46)
Pin 7 - 7.39 (7.46)
Pin 8 - 15.28 (14.93)

IC3
Pin 1 - 15.25 (14.91 actual)
Pin 2 - 7.64 (7.41)
Pin 3 - 8.05 (7.08)
Pin 4 - 1.05 (1.1)
Pin 5 - 0 (0)
Pin 6 - 7.64 (7.40)
Pin 7 - 7.6 (5.61)
Pin 8 - 7.6 (5.61)

IC4
Pin 1 - 7.64 (7.47 actual)
Pin 2 - 7.64 (7.47)
Pin 3 - 7.6 (7.46)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 7.59 (7.43)
Pin 6 - 7.62 (7.47)
Pin 7 - 7.62 (7.47)
Pin 8 - 15.28 (14.93)

IC5
Pin 1 - Varies (Varies)
Pin 2 - 7.8 (7.6)
Pin 3 - Varies (Varies)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 7.8 (7.69)
Pin 6 - 7.8 (7.69)
Pin 7 - Varies (14)
Pin 8 - 15.28 (14.99)

IC6
Pin 1 - Varies (14.38 steady)
Pin 2 - 4.3 (7.49)
Pin 3 - 4.3 (moves some, but around 1.15 - .92)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 2.26 (2.24)
Pin 6 - 2.28 (2.26)
Pin 7 - 2.28 (2.26)
Pin 8 - 15.28 (14.94)

IC7
Pin 1 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 2 - 7.63 (7.42)
Pin 3 - 15.25 (14.5)
Pin 4 - 0 (0)
Pin 5 - 4.63 (7.36)
Pin 6 - 0 (0)
Pin 7 - 0 (0)
Pin 8 - 15.27 (14.93)
Pin 9 - 15.27 (14.93)
Pin 10 - 11.4 (11.1)
Pin 11 - 15.27 (14.92)
Pin 12 - 15.25 (14.5)
Pin 13 - 15.27 (14.93)
Pin 14 - 15.27 (14.92)

IC8
Pin 1 - 15.28 (14.93)
Pin 2 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 3 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 4 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 5 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 6 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 7 - 7.63 (7.41)
Pin 8 - 0 (0)
Pin 9 - 7.63 (7.40)
Pin 10 - 7.63 (7.40)
Pin 11 - 7.63 (7.40)
Pin 12 - 7.63 (7.40)
Pin 13 - 4.9 (0)
Pin 14 - 7.63 (7.45)
Pin 15 - 7.63 (7.45)
Pin 16 - 11.4 (0)

Reg
I - 17.96 (17.62)
G - 0 (0)
O - 15.28 (14.92)

Q1
C - 15.28 (14.91)
B - 7.69 (5.62) - I think these can be trimmed to spec as they read differently before I set the trimmers.
E - 7.12 (5.09) - I think these can be trimmed to spec as they read differently before I set the trimmers.

Q2
C - 420mV (530mV)
B - 420mV (530mV)
E - 0 (0)

Q3
C - 11.43 (11.2)
B - 2.15 (2.06)
E - 1.99 (1.59)

Q4
C - 1.99 (1.59)
B - 485mV (560mV)
E - 0 (0)

Q5
C - 11.44 (11.1)
B - 15.28 (14.88)
E - 15.28 (14.93)

I'll take pics when I have a chance.

[Fender3D]

IC3's pins 7 and 8 are ok, they should be around 1/2 Vd.
the same for Q1's B and E, B shoulld be 1 diode drop higher.

as DA said you should connect IC6's pin 2 and 1 together and pin 3 to Vb
Pin 7 should "move" when moving MANUAL.
BTW manual control works when you have WIDTH not fully CW, when WIDTH is fully CW MANUAL won't work.

Biasing is somewhat confusing on pdf
Clock should be 32KHz to1MHz, then, if you're after MXR sound, you'd choose C23 for maximum clock freq. (1MHZ) then trim clock trimmer for minimum freq. (32KHz). This allows you to get the full MXR flanging depth.

[Juan1]

Thanks! Regarding IC6, pin 3 and VB, isn't VB @ ~7.6V?  IC6 pin 3 is listed at 4.3V. 

[duck_arse]

Thanks! Regarding IC6, pin 3 and VB, isn't VB @ ~7.6V?  IC6 pin 3 is listed at 4.3V.

if that half of the IC hasn't been correctly terminated, and we can't see it on the circuit diagram so can safefly assume it hasn't, it can do whatever takes its fancy, voltagewise. it can drift with the wind and latch-up, we can't say what it will be doing. it may oscillate and mess the rest of the circuit, too.

as for the IC7 pin 5, it must be a misprint in the docs. as for the 4049 N/C pins, the meter used to measure those pins is effectively not connecting to anything, and so can/will float and read the air, the circuit board, the flux ..... unless there actually is tracks on the pcb connecting those pins to something. in which case, it doesn't show on the circuit dia, which is all we have to go by.

we can only know what we are told.

[Juan1]

Thanks everyone, the pedal works as it should now, and I learned a few things! Here is the board.  Not proud of my solder work here.  My old, un-adjustable, 25W Weller did not perform well with my new, led-free solder.

[bean]

if that half of the IC hasn't been correctly terminated, and we can't see it on the circuit diagram so can safefly assume it hasn't, it can do whatever takes its fancy, voltagewise. it can drift with the wind and latch-up, we can't say what it will be doing. it may oscillate and mess the rest of the circuit, too.

Oh no, you are 100% bang on with that! I re-drew part of the schematic for the latest layout and I forgot to tie up the other half of that IC. That is a mistake on my part. Fortunately, it hasn't produced a negative result so far (obviously I build everything out before it goes in the wild) but I will fix that for the next round of boards. It can be addressed on the current layout with a couple of jumper wires so that the IC is ensured to be stable. I'll see to it.

For the voltage discrepancy, that was a typo. I'll correct that in the doc as well. Thank you!