Author Topic: Hacking the Alesis Ineko, part 2  (Read 5149 times)


Hacking the Alesis Ineko, part 2
« on: November 11, 2003, 03:46:54 PM »
Just finished this... here's a list of mods...

Replace U1, U2 with NE5532.

Replace C2, C3, C4, C5 with 0.1uF poly caps.

Replace C7, C11 with 0.1uF poly caps.

That's it. I just hooked it up to a beep box (a tb-303 clone, borrowed from my friend hektor) and ran thru some of the presets. It sounds great. I will post an mp3 sample so you can hear it. My pal makes evil industrial-techno so don't consider this a reflection of my own musical taste :) There is some brief hissy noise around 2:02 but that's the "fuzz" effect with the noise turned all the way up... and I hope you don't sit and listen to this for more than two minutes anyway!

The sample:

The original picture of the inside:

The picture of the finished mod:


Peter Snowberg

Hacking the Alesis Ineko, part 2
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2003, 04:26:36 PM »
Awesome! 8)

See my notes in your other thread that I edited into my double post. I was done editing a few minutes after you posted this thread.

Great job! How much did it improve things?

Eschew paradigm obfuscation


Hacking the Alesis Ineko, part 2
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2003, 04:42:53 PM »
It GREATLY improved things. Before, it was hard to hear what was going on over the noise... now, you can actually hear that the effects are pretty decent. I have an electronics page I'm cobbling together slowly and I will put some stuff up there when I get it up. Probably in a couple of weeks. At any rate, it was basically unusable before as it added a thick layer of hiss to anything that I put thru it.

(The old thread is here: but I'll answer questions in this thread.)

There aren't any parts on the bottom of the board. It IS double-sided though I think this is probably just to keep them from having to install jumpers, etc.

The cap on the outputs isn't a filtering cap, it's a DC-blocking cap (to keep any DC from hitting the opamps and driving them into saturation on the input side, I assume, and to keep DC from exiting the box.)

You are right about the filter/buffer though... I realized about halfway thru that since it's a stereo box (L/R in, L/R out) that only half of those i/o opamps is working on each side!