Silly Mil 2 bypass question

[Kilby]

I have built a big muff (tonepad layout), and decided to fit an Mil 2 bypass.

However I have a problem where the LED is always on if I have the 'level' control up full, if I roll the level off a little the LED does go out.

I have the +9V on the mil 2 wireed to the lower +9V pad, the 0V has been wired to several points, and the switch has been rewired 3 times.

Apart from the LED problem the rest of the damn thing works 100%.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks,

Kilby...

[rustylee]

Did you hook up the 100k resistor to ground between then FX output and the switch?  I missed this little detail and it caused me lot's of grief.

-Rusty

[idlefaction]

yeah, if you forget to include a resistance to 0V *after* the output coupling cap your mil2 won't have anything to charge through except for the output cap!

this also causes when your mil2 fades back in slowly after switching off.  

hth!

[bwanasonic]

Any suggestions ?

Wiseass answer: Yeah, use a 3PDT!  :wink: This is exactly why I don't use the MBP. I have a hard enough time trouble shooting my pedals as it is. The cost difference is about $3 between a Carling DPDT and a 3PDT.  Unless there is some benefit to the MBP that I am missing...

Kerry M

[gez]

The schematic I'm looking at has a 100k pot at the output so NO further pull down resistance is required!

Do you have the diode the right way round, or are you using a diode which isn't low leakage?  Check to see if there's any DC voltage across the volume pot, this might explain why the thing turns on as you increase the volume.  Check all your connections again, including the pin out of the FET.

[Kilby]

Sorry about the delay in replying to your suggestions.

There was indeed a voltage across the level/volume pot.

I traced it back to the other side of the board where there was a tiny little solder bridge.

THankyou very much folks.

Rob...