DIY PCB Boards - look at what I just etched...

[O]

I made a new layout for a DOD 250+ and I just etched the final version. I went with thick traces because I didn't want to exhaust the etchant solution.

For this board I used the Staples glossy paper and laser printer method. It came out great! Have a look...



I'm populating tonight, so hopefully I'll have a working box by this weekend...

[deke99]

Looks great O!  I've also been using the Staples paper method and it really does work great . . . and it's cheap!!

Good luck with the population of the board.  Let us know how it turns out.

D

[bwanasonic]

Pretty!

Kerry M

[Pedal love]

Excellent!

[O]

Pretty!

Kerry M

:oops:


Here are some progress shots...


That's all for tonight. For those that want to give the photo paper/laser printer method a try, its cheaper and you get the same results as the PNP blue method.

[Connoisseur of Distortion]

i use a paper method... but i get varied results. exactly what brand name (code number, description, whatever) is that stuff?? it makes beautiful results!

[ExpAnonColin]

Board mounted jacks?  

How do you plan to get it into the enclosure with them already soldered in there?

-Colin

[ESPguitar]

Looks great O!  I've also been using the Staples paper method and it really does work great . . . and it's cheap!!

Good luck with the population of the board.  Let us know how it turns out.

D

What is that?

Staples paper??

[puretube]

Board mounted jacks?  

How do you plan to get it into the enclosure with them already soldered in there?

-Colin

I always wondered that, too...
...until I got a newer wah-pedal for repair:

those jacks go flush to the box`s inside wall, and the (lengthy) nuts of those jacks bear the thread, that goes from outside through the enclosure into the jacks (which have a "female" thread inside - as opposed to the usual "male" thread on the outside).

somebody will soon post a link to a datasheet by "cliff" or "rean"... :?:

[O]

The staples paper is the glossy, inkjet paper that comes in 30 page packs. This is the SKU#
http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/Sku.asp?PageType=1&Sku=508428
I have an old Okidata OL-400e printer and although it's almost out of toner, it gives me great results. Oh, and the resolution on this thing sucks, that's why I go with the thicker traces just to be on the safe side.

As far as the jacks go, Puretube is right, they are flush with the box and you screw in the male "nut" from the outside. They are really sturdy and help to keep your board in place without using plastic standoffs and such.

I keep meaning to take pictures throughout the process to write up a photoessay, but I'm usually in such a hurry

[Ptownkid]

Can someone please explain the process of using the glossy paper for this process.  My understanding was you needed that press and peel stuff to do this.

[O]

Can someone please explain the process of using the glossy paper for this process.  My understanding was you needed that press and peel stuff to do this.

I'm at work, so I can't go too in depth in my response (don't worry, I'm sure someone will pick up the slack)

Basically, you get your board image ready to transfer (correct orientation and size). You print off one on a sheet of paper using a laser printer. Once you know where the board will print, you cut an oversized piece of photo glossy paper and tape it to the paper. Print it off again and you should have a printed board on your piece of glossy photo paper.

After you do this, you cut your copper board about 1/2 inch over it's size just to have enough wiggle room. You can always cut the copper board to size after you're done. I scuff my board with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper dipped in naphta (lighter fluid). This accomplishes 2 things: you make a "rough" surface for the toner to cling to, and since you're cleaning as you're sanding, it gives it a clean surface for the toner to cling to.

Heat up your iron to the highest setting, warm up your board, and the place the glossy paper you printed face down on the copper. I usually leave the iron on the board itself for about 2 minutes and then I start "ironing the board" like I would with clothing, etc.

[Ptownkid]

so the toner from the photo paper will actually transfer to the pcb?

Well, this is ggod news.  DDo you then use ferric chloride to etch?

[Mark Hammer]

I've got a very lengthy explanation of the whole thing (probably several) sitting in the archives.  I guess you need to search for glossy photo paper and my name.

No time to write it out again.  Gotta head back to class.

[ExpAnonColin]

As far as the jacks go, Puretube is right, they are flush with the box and you screw in the male "nut" from the outside. They are really sturdy and help to keep your board in place without using plastic standoffs and such.

Link me please?

-Colin

[Dirk_Hendrik]

Board mounted jacks?  

How do you plan to get it into the enclosure with them already soldered in there?

-Colin

Pretty easy (as this works for jacks with longer sleeves as well)
- Test the board.
- Desolder the jacks.
- mount the jacks in the enclosure.
- push the PCB on the jacks
- resolder the jacks
- done

I never use anything different since this saves me the search for mounting solutions. The first time i saw this approach was in a Tech 21 GT2

[ExpAnonColin]

Pretty easy (as this works for jacks with longer sleeves as well)
- Test the board.
- Desolder the jacks.
- mount the jacks in the enclosure.
- push the PCB on the jacks
- resolder the jacks
- done

I never use anything different since this saves me the search for mounting solutions. The first time i saw this approach was in a Tech 21 GT2

Right, I've seen this done before as well, but I was asking because if you ever want to modify and repair it, that's a huge pain in the ass.  But really I do want to know where to get these male washers.

-Colin

[ryanscissorhands]

I always wondered that, too...
...until I got a newer wah-pedal for repair:

those jacks go flush to the box`s inside wall, and the (lengthy) nuts of those jacks bear the thread, that goes from outside through the enclosure into the jacks (which have a "female" thread inside - as opposed to the usual "male" thread on the outside).

I, too, discovered this secret while cutchering my brother's Morley Wah/distortion. Pretty cool.

[ninoman123]

I used the HP Photopaper for injets and I used the Office Max DIY lazer jet photocopiers. Worked very nice for my Small Clone chorus.  The paper just peeled right off of the copper, no washing neccisary. I touched up some of the traces with a sharpie I have. Worked well. Then for holes I use a 1/32 bit in my Dremel. I bought the cheap 20 dollar one. Works just fine.  

[lethargytartare]

In broad terms, you don't do anything all that different from PnP.  Print the pattern, heat the copper (I use a heat gun -- gets it hotter faster and more evenly), press the printout onto the copper, iron away.  When you're done, run it under cold water until the paper backing gets easy to pull away, then gently rub off the rest of the paper.  Etch like normal.  I usually put a soaked sponge on the paper and go off and do something else, then come back, peel off the paper back, put the sponge back on and go off and do something else.  Come back and rub the rest of the paper off.

It's not really it's own process...just one type of paper that people have had good success with.  You'll find plenty of people who have tried other types of glossy paper with equal success.

But do read the other threads out there -- some of these guys have done a phenomenal job of making very newbie-friendly tutorials!

Cheers!

ltt

Can someone please explain the process of using the glossy paper for this process.  My understanding was you needed that press and peel stuff to do this.