Bypass On Board

[smallbearelec]

I have been working on a 5-knob shell for the re-designed Bear Face and other Bearish Ideazz. Here are two pics of a bypass-on board scheme using the manufactured actuator and E-Switch DPDT tactile on my stock list:





This works, and the tight manufacturing tolerances of the parts make it possible to get repeatable results. The switch can be replaced easily, and without soldering, as the connection to it can be made with socket pins. I will publish method, drilling templates, etc. ASAP. A question:

In the second pic, the next step mechanically would be to fix the studs with epoxy cement. I have always disassembled and painted first, because I wasn't sure of the ability of epoxy to tolerate baking temp. Comment from other builders, pls?

[R.G.]

It would be far more reliable to through-bolt the standoffs from the top side with flathead screws in countersunk holes, then epoxy/Bondo fill the holes.

Even if you epoxy it well, a secondary painting and baking could soften the epoxy.

Better yet, interference-fit the studs into holes in the case, or use larger flatfoots on the studs to get more surface area.

Possibly best: solder them on. There **are** techniques to solder to aluminium and zinc.

[smallbearelec]

Thanks for reminding me about the aluminum solder! I had experimented with it awhile back but didn't think of using it here. Will let you know how it goes.

[Processaurus]

Looks like you epoxied the battery clip to the top, Steve.  Thats smart, because a battery won't fit vertically in a BB box with the added thickness of nuts holding the clip to some screws from the outside.  Found that out the hard way...