9V issue

[DBDbadreligion]

ok, i finished my B. Blender pedal and i went and plugged it in and it didnt turn on.
when i plugged it into the daisy chain all the other pedals on it turned of, and if i used a battery the pedal still didnt work.
is it possible to fry 9V  jacks?  because i think i may have done so.

thanks

nick

[GibsonGM]

Hmm, neat problem!  Is it the Blender that now won't work with the battery? Is the power supply ok with the other pedals only since this happened?  (don't try your adapter on the Blender again til we figure this out, LOL).   Did it work on battery before you plugged in the adapter?  What voltage is your adapter putting out (actually measure it, please). 

What could have happened is that the jack is wired backwards, or there is a short inside the Blender.  That can fry several types of parts, making it no longer work with a battery. You'd have to find & replace the blown parts.
If the Blender is wired like a 'normal' stompbox with no on/off switch, it turned on when you plugged it in via input jack ground switching.

If you'll post answers to the above, and maybe a link to the Blender schematic, I'd be glad to walk you thru the next part, finding out what's wrong with the Blender, provided the power supply is OK.
I'll check back in a while...

~MJP

[DBDbadreligion]

http://gaussmarkov.net/index.php?page=layouts#bblender
there's the schematic.
i dont have my MM with me, ill get it later.  i dont have the 9V jack wired wrong, it's negative ground.
it is wired with a normal on/off switch.
and the power supply worked with the pedals b4 this, i didnt try the battery b4 using the PS.

[Barcode80]

if daisy chaining other pedals off it shut it off, you ALMOST DEFINITELY have the DC jack wired backwards, especially if the other pedals work on the chain when it is not on it.

[DBDbadreligion]

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/DBDbadreligion/?action=view&current=B-1.jpg
here's how i have it wired, i think the jack is broken though, because i think i over heated it.

[GibsonGM]

Well, DB....those jacks are pretty tough    With the currents we're using, they should NOT overheat at all.  Which tells me you probably have a short in your power section of the pedal. 

Try setting your meter to continuity test....check between the + and - of the battery clip...you shouldn't have continuity (with the switch set to ON, mind ya).  With no plug in the adapter, next check continuity across the power tabs on the back of it...should have a path from battery + to the + input of the board.    That path should open when the plug is inserted into the adapter jack (don't have the power supply powered up for this test, tho!!!). In other words, the battery is cut out when the plug goes in.  If the battery stays in the circuit with the plug in, that's the problem!  It would fry things (we'll deal w/that next, after you test this).     

Alternatively, hook up the battery...no plug in the adapter jack...read your voltage from the battery - (ground) thru the jack and to the board...should be battery voltage.  This is a start, checking for a short.

Also, double-check how you have your switches set up etc., common mistakes can cause these problems! I'm not seeing how you're switching with the "normal on off switch", but check it to be sure you're not shorting somewhere....
Happy Hunting!  )

[DBDbadreligion]

ill get back to u tomorrow on that one, i only have a AMM and it's not with me right now.

[johngreene]

After looking at your diagram, you do realize that the center pin of the footswitch only connects to the 1K resistor and nothing else, right? It kinda looks like it is connected to the pin to the left but it isn't! (I don't know if you drew the connection diagram or not).

--john

[hellwood]

when i plugged it into the daisy chain all the other pedals on it turned off

you might want to triple check the polarity of your daisy chain power source. i cant see anything else killing the rest of your pedals.

[aron]

It sounds like a short to me. That would explain all the other pedals shutting down.

[petemoore]

  Test for shorts, then add power...a rule I try to follow religiously.
  The BBlender shows no reverse polarity protection[ for a headroom reason I suspect]...and may not have seen much voltage...seeing on how the power supply was almost certain in a shorted condition when applied...maybe some reverse voltage of damage level got in there anyway?..if so, polarized components like electro caps or opamps *may need replaced.
  So I'd suspect the PS also since they're generally somewhat sensative to shorted conditions, test the DC voltage, sometimes it goes way up, sometimes it goes and stays at 0.
  I'd use a confirmed correct polarity [with DMM] battery power to debug the BB, then before applying daisy chain power, connect everything PS related and test that no shorted conditions exist before plugging the WW in.
  I have a battery clip to DC plug wire I use to connect battery through DC jack...all my DIY stuff is center positive, and the barrel contacts the grounded enclosure.
 

[darron]

i had the problem with a boss pedal once where it wouldn't work in my daisy chain unless i had other pedals powered off the same adaptor. i haven't fixed it, but the problem is that the ground/negative connection on the unit was poor, but it would work if sharing a common ground with the other units. this could possibly be happening with your battery? otherwise do a simple continuity test and work your way backwards.

[GibsonGM]

All things being equal, isn't it likely that the simplest explanation will probably be the right one?  I still think a short in the pedal, esp. if other pedals work with the power supply. 

I always test my stuff with a battery, alone, before trying it with other effects.  That way, you isolate the issue to the circuit under test.  Like Petemoore said, debug with a battery in the box, tracing voltages and the like.  If the battery gets hot, or rapidly decreases in voltage, it means there's a short.  Why else would other other pedals go off when the Blender is plugged in?     Jack wiring and/or polarity, on/off switch if you've got one, ground switching.  You just have to trace the power path.

I think the 1K in the pic is connected to an LED and should be ok...

[petemoore]

  Routinely pre-testing for PS shorts with the DMM has become the 'easy' way IME, makes stuff work faster, costs less, and reduces shortages of peace of mind, well worth the time.

[DBDbadreligion]

After looking at your diagram, you do realize that the center pin of the footswitch only connects to the 1K resistor and nothing else, right? It kinda looks like it is connected to the pin to the left but it isn't! (I don't know if you drew the connection diagram or not).

--john

ok well those two wires that look like their touching are not, that just happened when i did this in MS Paint.
the led is connected to the middle lug and the input tip is on the lug to the left of the middle one.

  Test for shorts, then add power...a rule I try to follow religiously.
  The BBlender shows no reverse polarity protection[ for a headroom reason I suspect]...and may not have seen much voltage...seeing on how the power supply was almost certain in a shorted condition when applied...maybe some reverse voltage of damage level got in there anyway?..if so, polarized components like electro caps or opamps *may need replaced.
  So I'd suspect the PS also since they're generally somewhat sensative to shorted conditions, test the DC voltage, sometimes it goes way up, sometimes it goes and stays at 0.
  I'd use a confirmed correct polarity [with DMM] battery power to debug the BB, then before applying daisy chain power, connect everything PS related and test that no shorted conditions exist before plugging the WW in.
  I have a battery clip to DC plug wire I use to connect battery through DC jack...all my DIY stuff is center positive, and the barrel contacts the grounded enclosure.
 

ok well i hope nothing was damaged, i cant keep replacing things in it.  i already had to buy new opamps b/c i used the wrong ones.

[MikeH]

The first thing I'd check for is continuity between you 9V+ and ground; could be a miswired jack, miswired wire, bad solderjoint, circuit shorting out against the chassis, shorted out or just plain faulty DC jack... the list goes on.  I'd guess that there is, because that would cause your power supply to short to ground, as well as your daisy chain and all of the other effects too.

[DBDbadreligion]

The first thing I'd check for is continuity between you 9V+ and ground; could be a miswired jack, miswired wire, bad solderjoint, circuit shorting out against the chassis, shorted out or just plain faulty DC jack... the list goes on.  I'd guess that there is, because that would cause your power supply to short to ground, as well as your daisy chain and all of the other effects too.

i think the DC jack may be faulty now, it looks brocken and one of the lugs looks as if it may break off.

[Barcode80]

yeah, i had the same problem now that i think about it with a broken seymour duncan pickup booster i bought. it was doing similar things to your build, and when i got it home and cracked it open i noticed that the power jack looked a little squirrely. 10 minutes and a new power jack later, it was fired up and sounding sweet!

[DBDbadreligion]

ok, well i went out and bought a new DC jack and a DMM.
it is still having the same problem and the ground section is reading 9V, all the way from pin 4 on the ICs to the ground on the volume pot.
i was discussing this problem here for quite a while. 
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=57558.0
me and gaussmarkov have been trying to work on it together.
but yeah anyway the pedal still isnt turning on.

[hellwood]

what is the voltage of pin 7 on the IC's?