Echo Base - a new PT2399 delay

Started by slacker, August 27, 2007, 04:33:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ancarano

#740
why pin8 of the cd4066 must be at 9V? there is a 10k resistor between pin8 and 9V!

anyway...I find the source of my problem: some copper removed between pin1 (TL072) and the 680k resistor, I didn't see it at first sight cause it was hidden by a pot wire. I bypassed it with a "flying" wire, and the problem with Time and Depth died.... but now, for unknown reasons, the circuit has gone to die totally, nothing is working: no delay, no chorus, no vibe  ;D
many tension on the pt2399 and the cd4066 are out of range. the next days I'll re-check all the circuit to find the new bug  :icon_mrgreen:


compuwade

Quote from: ancarano on December 02, 2009, 10:49:41 AM
why pin8 of the cd4066 must be at 9V? there is a 10k resistor between pin8 and 9V!

anyway...I find the source of my problem: some copper removed between pin1 (TL072) and the 680k resistor, I didn't see it at first sight cause it was hidden by a pot wire. I bypassed it with a "flying" wire, and the problem with Time and Depth died.... but now, for unknown reasons, the circuit has gone to die totally, nothing is working: no delay, no chorus, no vibe  ;D
many tension on the pt2399 and the cd4066 are out of range. the next days I'll re-check all the circuit to find the new bug  :icon_mrgreen:


Well I'm glad you figured out the original problem. It's too bad there is another problem now. My guess is that the wire connections are loose now. It happens to me just about every time I have to troubleshoot a circuit.

Good Luck!!


ancarano

I've found the last (I hope) problem with a pot wire, and now the circuit seems to be ok, but I have a few questions:

1) on pin8 of CD4066 I have 1.85V instead of 9V, and on pin9 1.89V instead of 3V (values reported by Slacker as correct tensions): why? what I have to re-check?
2) the delayed notes seems to be a little bit "closed", like when you close the tone pot of the guitar: is ok?
2-b) I have to use this effect on bass guitar, do you suggest to change some capacitor?

compuwade

Quote from: ancarano on December 03, 2009, 10:43:07 AM
I've found the last (I hope) problem with a pot wire, and now the circuit seems to be ok, but I have a few questions:

1) on pin8 of CD4066 I have 1.85V instead of 9V, and on pin9 1.89V instead of 3V (values reported by Slacker as correct tensions): why? what I have to re-check?
2) the delayed notes seems to be a little bit "closed", like when you close the tone pot of the guitar: is ok?
2-b) I have to use this effect on bass guitar, do you suggest to change some capacitor?
I'm not sure why the voltages are not right, but mine were not exact either for some reason. I decided on not using the LED lead from the 4066 because it didn't burn bright enough for me. So I just used a DPDT bypass switch and hooked the LED to that. I think due to some of the changes in the circuit through out development that some of the voltages have changed. I could be wrong, but I would say as long as your circuit sounds like it's supposed to, there is nothing to worry about.

As far as the Bass, This circuit is very transparent so it should work as nicely with a bass as it does with guitar without any changes. I think that you've probably done too many fixes to your circuit to try anymore changes. I would reccomend building another one if you plan on making any mods to it.

Just my opinion.

-Wade

ancarano

I have the same problem with the led, it doesn't burn bright as I expected (actually is not useful to check if the effect is bypassed or not). I was thinking about the possibility to add a 3PDT bypass, so I could make it true-bypass and add the led.
As riguards the bass, I agree with you... this circuit seems to work without distinction between bass and guitar, infact I actually hear the same "closed tone" on both :D . I hope this can be solved.

Compuwade, thanks for your precious help and opinions.

davent

Just to address the issue of  LED not being bright enough, have you tried an ultra bright LED? With these you can run them at half a milliamp or less and they'll still be more then bright enough to be useful.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Jarno

I just finished my Echo Base (well the electronics part of it), it's awesome! I'm still trying to wrap my head around all the combinations of modulation and delay.
It did take some time to get parts that fit for the Ano......ward layout. That's a pretty tight layout, and my etch wasn't as good most of the others I etched myself. Also, for some reason oxidation of the board started pretty quickly, even though I cleaned it with fine steel wool, soldering wasn't the pleasure it can be.

Let's box this thing up!

deadastronaut

hi guys i'm thinking of going for this echo base build..i like the idea of the tails switch too...

i found a pdf made by anonymousfacelesscoward...for the echo base...pcb version.

has anyone made this version?

and is it the same as the demo's on youtube?....

just want a few comments in case this isn't what it seems...... :icon_rolleyes:

its quite a big build for a bit of a novice like me, ive just built the rebote 2.5 tho..and i love it..

just want to be sure..anyone?
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Jarno

See above, I didn't feel like typing the whole anonymousfacelesscowardstuff, so I abbreviated it. But that's the layout I used, and it worked at first startup (despite the below-par etch job).
It is quite a big build, and a very compact layout. Sourcing of the right sized components is important (the film caps), use sockets for the IC's, pay attention to the jumpers beneath the sockets!

I wouldn't recommend this for a second build, but if you can solder properly and can work neatly and flawlessly, why not.

mikemaddux

Quote from: deadastronaut on December 23, 2009, 12:07:42 PM
hi guys i'm thinking of going for this echo base build..i like the idea of the tails switch too...

i found a pdf made by anonymousfacelesscoward...for the echo base...pcb version.

has anyone made this version?

and is it the same as the demo's on youtube?....

just want a few comments in case this isn't what it seems...... :icon_rolleyes:
its quite a big build for a bit of a novice like me, ive just built the rebote 2.5 tho..and i love it..
just want to be sure..anyone?
ive made that version, its verified and it seems to be the same as the one on youtube - very cool pedal
Completed Builds: A lot...

fuzzo

Hi,

I decided to make a DIY delay using that chip, but what's the different between the "pt-80" and the "rebote delay" ?

I saw  the first uses two additional chips , but I don't know more.


Jarno

The PT-80 was designed to emulate an analog delay, that's why it's got a compander chip in there.

fuzzo

Ok thnaks.

Both seem cool , by the way.

deadastronaut

hi guys have built the anon--coward echo base.....finally..god that was tight n precise...phewww...

anyway..it all works fine ...brilliant in fact........only thing is the wiring of a 3dpt switch!!!!

ive got 2 wires for a bypass..

and 3 wires for tails/boss.........whatever boss means?(boss pedal i guess)....... :icon_redface:

also is a hold switch mod possible on this?

any ideas.............??????
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

mth5044

The echobase and that layout are intended for a momentary switch for bypass, unless you mod it for true bypass, in which case you can't use the boss/tails switch.

The two wires for bypass are just wired to the two poles. You need a seperate SPDT switch for the boss/tails switch.

mth5044

And by momentary, I meant latching.. sorry about that  :icon_redface:

WhenBoredomPeaks

#756
I might get away with this question in this topic:

I have a PT2399 ic and most of the parts for building this, the Rebote 2.5 or the MagnusModulus.
But i am actually fancying buying a cheaper delay. (like the memory boy/toy or behringer digital/analog delay, GFS analog delay, or other stuff up to 100$)
I don't really need the other features (chorus, vibrato etc.) but i don't mind them, but i am looking for a delay in he first place.
Can a PT2399 offer a performance similar to the mentioned units? (i don't really looking for the lowpass filtered analog sound, the lower noise/cleaner the better)
Can those diy project offer better performance than the cheaper mass-product delays, or delay is an effect which is not really diy friendly?

slacker

#757
In my opinion it depends what you want , if you want a super clean delay especially at longer times then you won't get that from a PT2399 based pedal, whether it's DIY or commercial, the chip just can't do it.
You can make a very nice sounding delay with them though, if you want something warm and vaguely analogue sounding then the Rebote 2.5 is a great pedal, if you want something cleaner sounding then the Echo Base does that plus you get the modulation.

Supposedly the GFS pedal uses a PT2399, as do a lot of cheap "analog" delays, so it probably is similar to a Rebote 2.5. I had a listen to some clips on Youtube and it sounds Ok, definitely no better than something you could build yourself though.
The Memory boy sounds nice, but the Echo Base can do similar modulation sounds, and you can change the modulation speed without having to use an expression pedal.
What I'd do seen as how you've already got some of the parts is build one of the DIY delays and then buy something like a second hand Boss DD3 or a Behringer rip off. That way you've got a delay with a bit of character and a nice clean delay, that should cover most things.

WhenBoredomPeaks

Quote from: slacker on January 14, 2010, 04:34:16 PM
In my opinion it depends what you want , if you want a super clean delay especially at longer times then you won't get that from a PT2399 based pedal, whether it's DIY or commercial, the chip just can't do it.
You can make a very nice sounding delay with them though, if you want something warm and vaguely analogue sounding then the Rebote 2.5 is a great pedal, if you want something cleaner sounding then the Echo Base does that plus you get the modulation.

Supposedly the GFS pedal uses a PT2399, as do a lot of cheap "analog" delays, so it probably is similar to a Rebote 2.5. I had a listen to some clips on Youtube and it sounds Ok, definitely no better than something you could build yourself though.
The Memory boy sounds nice, but the Echo Base can do similar modulation sounds, and you can change the modulation speed without having to use an expression pedal.
What I'd do seen as how you've already got some of the parts is build one of the DIY delays and then buy something like a second hand Boss DD3 or a Behringer rip off. That way you've got a delay with a bit of character and a nice clean delay, that should cover most things.


Thanks! Then i gonna go for the Echo Base, i have everything what it needs expect a few capacitors.

ancarano

Quote from: WhenBoredomPeaks on January 14, 2010, 08:15:24 AM
I don't really need the other features (chorus, vibrato etc.) but i don't mind them, but i am looking for a delay in he first place.
Can a PT2399 offer a performance similar to the mentioned units? (i don't really looking for the lowpass filtered analog sound, the lower noise/cleaner the better)
Can those diy project offer better performance than the cheaper mass-product delays, or delay is an effect which is not really diy friendly?

if you are interested in, i've a layout (for stripboard ) of the echo base without the other effect -just the delay section- and true bypass.
it's not verified, but i took it from another verified stripboard layout (by GilaCrisis) of the complete echobase.