Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

Started by dano12, December 11, 2007, 07:51:24 PM

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dcd666

bypass works just fine but still i can't add a LED indicator to it :icon_sad:

firethorn

Use a stereo input jack. The method where the effect can't be turned on unless there's a jack plugged in the input.

mothercruncher

Just finished my Valvecaster build, stuck an Electro Harmonix LPB in front of it for a very effective kick that takes the pedal into nice heavy overdrive territory. Really pleased with the build, thanks Beavis and thanks Renegadrian for the vero layout. Here's my take on the whole "relic" thing applied to pedals;




Renegadrian

Hey that's a great pedal! I am glad I have a part in it in some way... :icon_redface: :icon_surprised:
I like it!!!
Done an' workin'=Too many to mention - Tube addict!

kurtlives

My DIY site:
www.pdfelectronics.com

frequencycentral

Quote from: kurtlives on March 11, 2009, 07:14:23 PM
Whats the trimpot do Mr. Landgraff?  ;)

Looks like it's the LPB's volume. Like the distressed look!
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

biggy boy

Looks good man!


Has anyone been using shielded cable in the signal path?
I've been using RG174/u between the input jack and pin1, pin 7 and the output jack.
But I'm wondering if it's really needed? It's a pain in the a$$ to work with.
Any thoughts?

Glen

kurtlives

I wouldn't bother. Its not the kind of circuit that really would benefit much from coax cable.

Id regulate your heaters and give them stiff filtering and move on with it and play!
My DIY site:
www.pdfelectronics.com

biggy boy

Ok thanks
I'm almost done this build, its the second Valvecaster.
This one will be running at 140 volts.
I'm using the Real McTube transformer setup.


Glen

archaon13

#989
hey there
i've recently built a valvecaster, but i'm having a few problems, after building the circuit and testing it it didnt work, the valve lights up  and i hear a hum the volume knob seems to be working cus it cuts the hum, the tone knob when its all the way down also cuts the hum, and the gain seems its not working, i checked the connections to see if any where missplaced or soldered together, i know there is alot of possibilities of what could be wrong, but if anyone has an idea it would be apreciated
i'm new in electrinics and i know little about it i'v tried this has my first project so please take it easy on me :icon_wink:

frequencycentral

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 02:19:39 PM
hey there
i've recently built a valvecaster, but i'm having a few problems, after building the circuit and testing it it didnt work, the valve lights up  and i hear a hum the volume knob seems to be working cus it cuts the hum, the tone knob when its all the way down also cuts the hum, and the gain seems its not working, i checked the connections to see if any where missplaced or soldered together, i know there is alot of possibilities of what could be wrong, but if anyone has an idea it would be apreciated
i'm new in electrinics and i know little about it i'v tried this has my first project so please take it easy on me :icon_wink:

Hi, good that the valve lights up! The hum would be a power supply issue - tubes are choosy. What power supply are you using? Is it filtered/regulated? What voltage does it supply? What is its ma capability? You may be able to solve the hum by using a 7812 (search this thread) and a 100uf cap across the power rails, or by using a good filtered/regulated power supply. The gain not working suggests maybe you wired the pot wrong? Does your guitar signal pass through the effect at all?

It would be nice to see voltages at all 9 pins. Here's mine, running at 12 volts, with the gain control set to maximum:

Pin 1: 3.02v
Pin 2: -0.518v
Pin 3: 0.00v
Pin 4: 0.00v
Pin 5: 11.97v
Pin 6: 8.21v
Pin 7: -1.285v
Pin 8: 0.00v
Pin 9: 5.91v

If you are running at 9 volts, all your voltages will be 25% less than mine.
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

archaon13

#991
Quote from: frequencycentral on March 14, 2009, 03:19:42 PM
Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 02:19:39 PM
hey there
i've recently built a valvecaster, but i'm having a few problems, after building the circuit and testing it it didnt work, the valve lights up  and i hear a hum the volume knob seems to be working cus it cuts the hum, the tone knob when its all the way down also cuts the hum, and the gain seems its not working, i checked the connections to see if any where missplaced or soldered together, i know there is alot of possibilities of what could be wrong, but if anyone has an idea it would be apreciated
i'm new in electrinics and i know little about it i'v tried this has my first project so please take it easy on me :icon_wink:

Hi, good that the valve lights up! The hum would be a power supply issue - tubes are choosy. What power supply are you using? Is it filtered/regulated? What voltage does it supply? What is its ma capability? You may be able to solve the hum by using a 7812 (search this thread) and a 100uf cap across the power rails, or by using a good filtered/regulated power supply. The gain not working suggests maybe you wired the pot wrong? Does your guitar signal pass through the effect at all?

It would be nice to see voltages at all 9 pins. Here's mine, running at 12 volts, with the gain control set to maximum:

Pin 1: 3.02v
Pin 2: -0.518v
Pin 3: 0.00v
Pin 4: 0.00v
Pin 5: 11.97v
Pin 6: 8.21v
Pin 7: -1.285v
Pin 8: 0.00v
Pin 9: 5.91v

If you are running at 9 volts, all your voltages will be 25% less than mine.
thanks for the relply
the values on the power supply is 9vdc 800ma, but i dont think thats the only problem (if its a problem), the bypass signal works but wen i turn it on i only ear the hum and no guitar signal, the gain potenciometer i have has an off switch forgot to mention that, i simply didnt connect anything to the other two pins it had (could that be the problem?)
i've tried to mesure the pins on the valve but i dont know how lol

frequencycentral

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 03:52:18 PM
thanks for the relply
the values on the power supply is 9vdc 800ma, but i dont think thats the only problem (if its a problem),

Is it regulated/filtered?

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 03:52:18 PM
the gain potenciometer i have has an off switch forgot to mention that, i simply didnt connect anything to the other two pins it had (could that be the problem?)

If it's the type with a switch grafted on the back it souldn't be a problem. Did you have a look at the Valvecaster wiring diagram on Dano's site? Second diagram down: http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ValveCaster/

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 03:52:18 PM
i've tried to mesure the pins on the valve but i dont know how lol

You have a multimeter? Set it to 'volts'. Clip the black lead to ground somewhere, and clip the red lead to each pin of the tube in turn. Note down your readings for each pin. If you don't have a mulitmeter you could use your tongue and estimate - but a multimeter is more accurate!  :icon_mrgreen: Might also be a good idea to check that you're giving the circuit the correct polarity from the power supply, if ground reads -9 volts you have it reversed.
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

archaon13

Quote from: frequencycentral on March 14, 2009, 04:44:38 PM
Is it regulated/filtered?

my newbish prevents me from understanding how to see that lol sorry

Quote from: frequencycentral on March 14, 2009, 04:44:38 PM
If it's the type with a switch grafted on the back it souldn't be a problem. Did you have a look at the Valvecaster wiring diagram on Dano's site? Second diagram down: http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ValveCaster/

i did it's wired that exact same way only with a true bypass switch

Quote from: frequencycentral on March 14, 2009, 04:44:38 PM
You have a multimeter? Set it to 'volts'. Clip the black lead to ground somewhere, and clip the red lead to each pin of the tube in turn. Note down your readings for each pin. If you don't have a mulitmeter you could use your tongue and estimate - but a multimeter is more accurate!  :icon_mrgreen: Might also be a good idea to check that you're giving the circuit the correct polarity from the power supply, if ground reads -9 volts you have it reversed.

i have a multimeter only its analogic when i trie to mesure the first pin, the needle tries to go down so i cant read any of the pins, the few that move the needle makes it go down, could it be reversed has you said?

archaon13

I just tried a 12v power supply I have laying around and the humming stoped!
but still no signal from the guitar to the amp

frequencycentral

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 05:21:17 PM
i have a multimeter only its analogic when i trie to mesure the first pin, the needle tries to go down so i cant read any of the pins, the few that move the needle makes it go down, could it be reversed has you said?

Yup, sounds reversed. Test the polarity of the power supply - the 'protocol' for effects pedals is centre=ground, most wall warts (yours too?) are the reverse of that.
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

archaon13

the polarity symbol on the power suply is this

frequencycentral

Thats the opposite of effects pedal protocol. You can cut off the power supply lead and solder it on the other way around, using electrical tape to make good and isolate the wires from each other. The tube probably won't have suffered any damage - they're tough cookies.

Also bear in mind that if you have a metal chassis DC socket you will need to isolate it form your (metal) enclosure, or the positive will short against it.
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

archaon13

i have a socket with a little holder in metal, i'm presuming that doesnt make contact with the tube circuit or am i wrong?

frequencycentral

Quote from: archaon13 on March 14, 2009, 06:33:52 PM
i have a socket with a little holder in metal, i'm presuming that doesnt make contact with the tube circuit or am i wrong?

If the chassis is plastic and just the nut is metal then thats fine.
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!