A-Gua Filter Wiring Question/Debug for all mod version (MXR Env-Filter)

Started by Evad Nomenclature, February 08, 2009, 11:28:53 AM

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Evad Nomenclature

Hey guys.

So, I etched a tonepad Aqua Filter board and populated it yesterday.
I wanted to do the version with all the mods and this is by far the most complicated build that I have attempted.
When I finished it and fired it up, I was getting sound through both the bypassed and the effected signal (which is a good sign)
But I wasn't getting any Wah or Filter... also note that none of the pots/switches (except for the on switch for the main signal) are doing a damn thing.
Well.. actually, one of the switched completely kills the signal (the one wired for the filter range mod) when it is in the position to connect points I and J.
Here's the link to the project.

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=113

Here's what my wiring looks like (another note, the pot is probably wrong)




As I was saying... I haven't done anything this complicated yet, so I'm assuming that I connected the switches in the wrong way or something.
Also to note... I also made sure that i didn't use TI chips as it states in the build reports because they apparantly dont work with this build for some reason.

Thanks much, if you see anything let me know...
Dave
Evad Nomenclature III
Master of Dolphin Technologies

mdh

Yes, there are many mistakes.  First of all, for the pot, you'll want to tie one of the outer terminals to the wiper.  The way you have it wired now, there's a constant 500k resistance in that place.  That alone might cause the behavior you describe.

Also, it looks like both your DPDTs are wired incorrectly.  It's hard to diagram with ascii art, but the thing you need to know is that with the switches oriented the way you have drawn them, the second row of lugs are the "common" poles, and each column of lugs essentially makes up an SPDT switch.  That is to say, the switch works like this:


o  o                         o  o
|  |         toggle
x  x      ----------->       x  x
                             |  |
o  o                         o  o



For DPDT1, you want the switch at A-B closed and the switch at I-J closed at the same time.  So you need to either move j to the upper right lug, or b to the lower left.  Note that if you were being truly faithful to the way the schematic is drawn, b and i would be connected to the common poles (the x's in my diagram, above) and a and j would be connected to either the top row or bottom row.  Also, a DPST would do the job in this application.

DPDT2 is more complicated, and you need to really understand the schematic symbols to get it straight.  One way to express something sort of midway between the schematic and (a correct version of) your diagram is:


C  D

G  H

#--#


Where the # symbols represent the unlabeled poles on the switch.  Looking at your diagram, note that the blue wires should be going to H and G, not to C and G.  My diagram is meant to express that point, as well as showing that C and D should be wired to the same row of poles, and the poles in the other row should be wired to each other.

Does this clarify things a bit?  Also, I should point out that often you can't tell from simply looking at a switch which way it is pinned out.  In these cases, the multimeter is your friend.