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MN3007 ADA Flanger Clone Questions

Started by Paul Marossy, February 19, 2009, 11:37:41 AM

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njkmonty

#320
September 14, 2011, 05:02:35 AM
more interested in getting an eclosure like this than knobs

http://notinteractive.com/stuff/guitar/fx/ada-flanger/front.jpg

njkmonty

#321
September 14, 2011, 08:00:10 AM
i quickly put together this little circuit i found somewhere in here for the stereo mod


http://s999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/?action=view&current=ADAstereoout-3.jpg

, but didn't work then i came across this at moosapotomus's site

Stereo outputs mod
The idea for this mod is to feed a clean signal to a second output jack, and install a toggle switch to remove the clean signal that is mixed into the main output. The clean signal can be tapped directly from the input (direct thru), or from the output of the first input buffer stage (Pad A). The toggle switch should be installed to make/break a connection between the two pads at Pad C. Note that when the toggle breaks the Pad C connection, some regen will also be cut out of the output. Alternatively, a switching type jack could be used for the second output jack to break the connection between the two pads at Pad C when a plug is inserted.


can anyone whos actually done advise????

njkmonty

#323
October 02, 2011, 06:51:06 AM
i found this, can anyone help????
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=49929.400
reply no# 74
Re: A/DA Flanger does TZF?



it looks different to the earlier version,
i tried the tonepad chorus add on stereo mod, but didnt sound right

Govmnt_Lacky

#324
January 23, 2012, 01:06:31 PM
Semi-necro post  :icon_eek:

Just wondering if this unit can be run (with the LT1054 charge pump) from a 9V battery.

Using the recommended components from the moosapotomus build notes (LM324s, LT1054 charge pump, etc.) would it kill a 9V quick or is it a viable addition?

Opinions or experiences??  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Scruffie

#325
January 23, 2012, 01:24:47 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 23, 2012, 01:06:31 PM
Semi-necro post  :icon_eek:

Just wondering if this unit can be run (with the LT1054 charge pump) from a 9V battery.

Using the recommended components from the moosapotomus build notes (LM324s, LT1054 charge pump, etc.) would it kill a 9V quick or is it a viable addition?

Opinions or experiences??  ;D
Current draw is around 30mA or something I think? Should last a while on a battery.

The LT1054 has a top limit of 100mA so it'll at least last a gig.

Govmnt_Lacky

#326
January 23, 2012, 02:41:29 PM
Quote from: Scruffie on January 23, 2012, 01:24:47 PM
Current draw is around 30mA or something I think? Should last a while on a battery.
The LT1054 has a top limit of 100mA so it'll at least last a gig.

Good deal! Thanks  ;)
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Govmnt_Lacky

#327
February 06, 2012, 09:48:56 AM
I am just about done with building up the excellent board from Charlie and I have run into a problem that may not be a problem  ;D

According to the schematic and layout, R71 is supposed to be a 14K resistor. I do not have that value handy at the moment but I DO have a 13K and a 15K.

Could I sub one of these values in there WITHOUT any ill effects to the circuit? I see that this resistor is between the V+ input on Pin 1 and the Vgg input on Pin 4 of the MN3007.

Could someone please verify that the 13K/15K would work here? I am thinking of the larger (15K) value to be safe.

Thanks  ;)

P.S. I would like to NOT put 2 values together to make the 14K if at all possible.

A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Fender3D

#328
February 06, 2012, 10:51:11 AM
You need 1/15 15Vcc @ Vgg. (~1V)
Any resistors providing the ratio will be OK (in my MXR clone I used 100K + 7K5)
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Govmnt_Lacky

#329
February 06, 2012, 10:59:13 AM
Quote from: Fender3D on February 06, 2012, 10:51:11 AM
You need 1/15 15Vcc @ Vgg. (~1V)
Any resistors providing the ratio will be OK (in my MXR clone I used 100K + 7K5)

Fender to the rescue!!  :P

That is what I was afraid of  :icon_cry:

I can only assume that the 14K is essential to getting the right voltage into Pin 4 of the MN3007. According to the schemo, the V+ (+15V) from the regulator is passing through a 250 ohm resistor then it goes DIRECTLY into Pin 1 AND it goes through the 14K to Pin 4.

Now I am thinking that changing the value of R71 (to 15K or 13K) will effect that voltage level going into Pin 4.

I guess I will need to get me a 14K resistor OR ruin my picture perfect board with 2 resistors soldered in series  :icon_cry: 
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Fender3D

#330
February 06, 2012, 11:24:20 AM
Nope,
you just have to change R71/R70 ratio (14k/1k) 27k/2k or 33k/2k4 will be ok.
the 250 res. is there just to filter BBD's supply toghether with C36
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Scruffie

#331
February 06, 2012, 12:38:20 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 06, 2012, 10:59:13 AM
Quote from: Fender3D on February 06, 2012, 10:51:11 AM
You need 1/15 15Vcc @ Vgg. (~1V)
Any resistors providing the ratio will be OK (in my MXR clone I used 100K + 7K5)

Fender to the rescue!!  :P

That is what I was afraid of  :icon_cry:

I can only assume that the 14K is essential to getting the right voltage into Pin 4 of the MN3007. According to the schemo, the V+ (+15V) from the regulator is passing through a 250 ohm resistor then it goes DIRECTLY into Pin 1 AND it goes through the 14K to Pin 4.

Now I am thinking that changing the value of R71 (to 15K or 13K) will effect that voltage level going into Pin 4.

I guess I will need to get me a 14K resistor OR ruin my picture perfect board with 2 resistors soldered in series  :icon_cry: 
15k - 5% Tollerance 14.25k is possible if you measure a few of your resistors, close enough.

Or... just use a 13 or 15k... I know it's meant to be 14/15th Vdd but a lot of the time people ignore that straight out and just connect it to voltage or ground depending on 3007 or 3207, personally I always just use the diode drop, 0.6V is close enough 14/15th the majority of the time.

I've not had any issues having it be a bit off.

12Bass

#332
February 06, 2012, 06:41:32 PM
Or you could produce 14K by using a 220K resistor in parallel with the 15K.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring. - Carl Sagan

Govmnt_Lacky

#333
February 13, 2012, 10:35:45 AM
Don't know if this has been brought up in this mammoth thread but I figured I would post this for all prospective builders of the Rev 5 MN3007 retro-fit boeards.

I noticed today that the external CV pedal wiring (JK3) is mis-labeled on the moose board. The wiring is labeled as Sw (switch), T (Tip), and S (sleeve) of the switching jack.

In actuality, it SHOULD be labeled Sw (switch), T (tip), and R (Ring). According to the schematics, the sleeve should be grounded and the RING should be connected to R53.

Am I correct in this?
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

moosapotamus

#334
February 13, 2012, 01:05:22 PM
You are correct, Sir! 8)

I can't believe that went unnoticed for ~3+ years! :D

Thanks!
~ Charlie
moosapotamus.net
"I tend to like anything that I think sounds good."

oldschoolanalog

#335
February 13, 2012, 09:26:13 PM
...just when you thought it was safe to go back into the water...
:icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
Mystery lounge. No tables, chairs or waiters here. In fact, we're all quite alone.

Govmnt_Lacky

#336
February 23, 2012, 07:46:27 AM
Here is my build of this FANTASTIC board and circuit from moosapotamus:



This is probably the best flanger I have built to date!

I do have one problem.... I cannot get the Threshold control to act properly.

Can anyone enlighten me on a good way to dial in the Threshold control? I am using a 2N4393 transistor.
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Fender3D

#337
February 23, 2012, 10:41:50 AM
I use the same gate in my MXRs clones actually...  :icon_wink:
FET suffers the "phaser matching process"  :icon_biggrin:
Carefully select a proper FET, or add a bias setting to FET's gate, instead of R32...

Otherwise, if it's a gain issue try playing with R28 and R27 (100 ohms is way too low...)
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Govmnt_Lacky

#338
February 23, 2012, 10:50:05 AM
Quote from: Fender3D on February 23, 2012, 10:41:50 AM
Otherwise, if it's a gain issue try playing with R28 and R27 (100 ohms is way too low...)

OK. If I keep R28 at 1M5, and I were to install a trimmer pot for R27.... what value would you suggest? If 100 ohms is too low  ;D

The series pot (Threshold pot) is only 10KB. Should I try a 100K multi-turn trimmer in place of R27?
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

moosapotamus

#339
February 23, 2012, 10:57:41 AM
What value are you using for the main threshold control? Increasing that from 10K up to 100K should help, if you haven't done that already.

Sweet looking build, BTW!

~ Charlie
moosapotamus.net
"I tend to like anything that I think sounds good."
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