Yet Another Drilling Technique!

[ayayay!]

This thread from months ago got me to thinking the other day:  http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=70072.20

Why not share my technique with everyone here?  So in honor of your friend and mine, Rodgre, I created this document to share the technique I use to draw up perfect marks for drilling.  Enjoy!

http://www.box.net/shared/zpfbnc4d4e

[Andi]

I have CAD drawings of the three enclosure sizes I use most often, and a CAD library of the components I use. With these I can do layouts knowing exactly what'll fit where, how much space there'll be between things and what size and shape PCB I can fit in between all the other bits. It also means I can print out an accurate drilling template. if I'm going to be doing a lot of pedals with the same layout I'll export the layout as DXF, convert to Gerber and make a template from PCB blank. This way I know everything will fit, I can drill tab holes for pots and toggle switches and similar pedals come out consistent with minimal mark-up time. Creating the CAD libraries took a few hours, but each layout takes a few minutes and the actual marking and punching of the enclosures a few seconds.

I use (as I've mentioned a few times now) the eMachineshop free CAD client.

[trixdropd]

Very nice! Thanks for taking out the time to make that for us.  

[railhead]

I use Adobe Illustrator and digital calipers. This gives me exact locations, which I then transfer to a piece of cardboard. I pop small holes at the centers on this cardboard, and there's my template -- just grab a shell, lay the template on top, mark with a fine-point Sharpie, and drill. I like this because I never have to measure anything ever again, once I make the template.

[jefe]

I use MS Visio and dial calipers.   

[ayayay!]

I guess one point I should have made is that this requires no software.  Not that I'm against that, but like the name of the document it's quick and dirty.   

[doug0147]

Very Nice!!! Thanks

[solderman]

Hi all
I use the pointy sharp backside of a slide caliper
I put the box, withe for example the long side, down on a flat hard surfice.  I then enter the messure for, for example a LED, that is parallel with the longside of the box. I then use the backside of a slide caliper to ritz a line in the box with one side of the caliper on the surfice and the other pressed to on the box. I then turn the box 90 degr and do the same thing from the other side. this gives me a X where to drill. No tape no ink and the scratches is cowered by the paint.

I have predefined measurements for all type of boxes I use and have standardiced the layout for the box to the layouts I do for PCB:s to fit

I use a auto Punch that doesent need a hammer since it gives better precision.

I pre drill with a 3mm HSS drillbit and then use a  multi step bit to the appropriate size.



For me this techniqe has proven very fast and very accurate.

I use a drillpress and a table vice as showen in Jonos splended Doc.

//Solderman   

[Ice-9]

Lol, Solderman , i use the exact same method with the calipers as you have described, its the most accurate metod i have used to mark the enclosures to date. I only wonder how long the sharp edge will stay sharp, should last a long time as being used on aluminium.

[jefe]

Lol, Solderman , i use the exact same method with the calipers as you have described, its the most accurate metod i have used to mark the enclosures to date. I only wonder how long the sharp edge will stay sharp, should last a long time as being used on aluminium.

Hardened stainless on aluminum... yeah, they'll last a long time.

I use this method sometimes as well, and I learned it from working in a sheet metal fabrication shop - IOW, this is a fairly common technique. In fact, I think that's why those jaws are sharp and pointy, so that they can be used as scribes.

[MicFarlow77]

Lol, Solderman , i use the exact same method with the calipers as you have described, its the most accurate metod i have used to mark the enclosures to date. I only wonder how long the sharp edge will stay sharp, should last a long time as being used on aluminium.

Hardened stainless on aluminum... yeah, they'll last a long time.

I use this method sometimes as well, and I learned it from working in a sheet metal fabrication shop - IOW, this is a fairly common technique. In fact, I think that's why those jaws are sharp and pointy, so that they can be used as scribes.

Actually, I think those are for measuring the inside diameter for pipe or machined parts that need that measured., at least they are on mine. Though, they do work equally well as scribes!

[jefe]

Actually, I think those are for measuring the inside diameter for pipe or machined parts that need that measured., at least they are on mine. Though, they do work equally well as scribes!

Yeah, you're probably right... the sharp pointy jaw ends are probably a biproduct of the thin edge and related geometry... I'm probably not supposed to use them as scribes - but that doesn't stop me.