Author Topic: TDA1022 Flanger  (Read 84998 times)

armdnrdy

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #120 on: February 28, 2014, 01:33:05 AM »
Found em.

Not much of an alignment guide!

This might help.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/DEM%20reissue%20alignment.pdf

Also, check out the Deluxe Electric Mistress build "The Gilmour".
You'll find a set up guide in that as well.

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=49105
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 01:42:06 AM by armdnrdy »
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

Thomeeque

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #121 on: February 28, 2014, 05:40:24 AM »
On page 3 towards the bottom, section 4. Setup Hints - Set all trimmers as indicated on Picture 1: Main Board Schematic
Not much of an alignment guide!

 Sorry, "Setup hints" chapter remained unfinished (hence the TODO), fine alignment steps are completely missing - it is not simple to formulate them properly and there are already copies of original EM alignment procedures available online, which can be used by experienced builder, so I did skip it for the first draft..

 First bullet is there just to quickly move you into the working area, where you should already get some flanging, but fine adjustments should be done yet. This can be especially useful when you are not equiped with proper tools like signal generator and oscilloscope and your only tools are DMM and your ears :)

RT1   1k   CCA 50%
RT2   10k   CCA 5.5K
RT3   100k   CCA 7.0V
RT4   10k   CCA 4.7K

 First, you probably know but just to be absolutely clear, CCA = circa = approximately (I am not sure how common is this acronym around the world actually).

 Now, RT1 (clock noise cancel trimmer) mixes two signals so I say here adjust it to approximately 50% (half of the trim range) so the mix ratio is 1:1.

 RT2 (feedback trimmer) and RT4 (clock trimmer) are configured as variable resistors, so I just say adjust them to given values (measured by DMM on fully populated board, that is how I have measured them - this is not precise method, but good enough for approximate)

 RT3 (BBD bias voltage trimmer) is configured as a voltage divider for the bias voltage on BBD (TDA1022) input - so I say here what voltage should be at it's output (measured against the GND) - but actually, 7.0V is value for 10V supply which I have used, so adjust it to 70% of your supply voltage (e.g. 6.3V for 9V supply). This trimmer should be precise and multi-turn type, because for the fine adjustment the sweet spot range is very narrow.

 T.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 12:16:38 PM by Thomeeque »
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Thomeeque

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #122 on: February 28, 2014, 05:41:20 AM »
Okay Tomas,

Well the part of choice in the US, is (drumroll) ...... The same part you referenced from Small Bear. Although it is indeed pricey, it is the ONLY switch available that has threads so that you can mount the switches to the enclosure. There were many that had mounting ears and holes. But you would need a nut on the other side between the PCB & the enclosure, and that would be physically impossible.
I checked the following MFG's: C&K Components, CW Industries, Alps, Apem, E-Switch, Switchcraft, TE/Alcoswitch.
It just so happens that the last one I checked (TE/Alcoswitch) is the only one with threaded mounting holes. I noticed that Small bear references their's as "the work-alike" of  old Alsowitch part# CST023NK, which is new TE PN# 1437576-4. I also emailed Small Bear to verify that the specs are identical, and they say yes.

Here are the specs: http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1437576-4&DocType=Customer+Drawing&DocLang=English

Tomas, if you feel like you have the time to change the layout for us here in the US, and it won't take too much out of you, I would be very grateful. I'm in no hurry. Just got my TDA1022 chip in today (not a knock-off) but I am still mauling through the parts list trying to source the rest of the parts.

Even though these switches are expensive, I like the "Atari Style" toggles. Maybe I'll design the pedal to look like a 2600!

 Good work, Jeff! You could yet try to ask Small Bear if he'd be willing to stock our European MS-034/GS373 weirdo (as it's cheap and has threaded mounting holes and I would not have to modify the BB layout :D), but I have no idea what are the odds for that to happen.

 Btw. as the toggle on Small Bear's type IMO slides the slide internally, action will be reversed - but that's more just a note then complain (you'll just have to reverse labels :)).

 T.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 07:33:16 AM by Thomeeque »
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hoffy84

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #123 on: March 01, 2014, 12:38:24 AM »
I'm not sure why threaded mounting holes are not popular here in the US. Maybe if more folks were taking on a complex build like this, Small Bear or other suppliers would consider stocking the original slider? If you think about it, maybe the MS-034 switch is not such a strange selection after all, bc it seems to be the only with mounting threads?
I believe you're right about the lever function on the US switches. I did think about that early on, when I saw the pictures of it.
Tomas, I'd like to try Larry's idea of the daughter-boards just for good practice. And then that can be the test to see how it functions, and THEN, we can see if it's worth editing your layout. Your thoughts?

Larry & Tomas: thank you guys for taking some time to help me. Really appreciate your feedback. I already went to local surplus store today and found all IC's except the LM324N. Guess I'll get that online with the other parts. Can't wait to build this, as it will be my first pedal!
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 12:40:51 AM by hoffy84 »

miique

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #124 on: March 21, 2015, 05:19:42 PM »
I found a discarded circuit board (I think it's part of a pretty old TV set) and one of the components is a TDA1022 (I'm Argentinian too, maybe these used to be popular TVs so that's why this IC is common here), googling it led me here so now I'm building this flanger.

Anyways, I only wanted to ask, is it of any importance at all that I use metal film (I guess that's what the pdf means by 'metallic'?) resistors rather than carbon film?

I guess the capacitor type shouldn't matter much either as long as I use polarized ones where it's indicated?

StephenGiles

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #125 on: March 21, 2015, 06:25:25 PM »
Aunque las resistencias son de película metálica , el flanger funciona. :icon_biggrin:
"I want my meat burned, like St Joan. Bring me pickles and vicious mustards to pierce the tongue like Cardigan's Lancers.".

n.d

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #126 on: July 08, 2016, 06:03:04 PM »
miique: copate y decime que tele buscar tirada en una vereda!

(asking politely what TV model he`s talking about, in spanish)

GodSaveMetal

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Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #127 on: November 10, 2016, 07:17:10 AM »
Mr Thomeeque; would you please make this excelent pedal made using other IC like the MN3007 ??; I have a HUNDREDs of this ICs !! the TDA1022 are rare in PERÚ!! THANKS to post your excelents pedals!!

nepalnt21

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #128 on: February 12, 2019, 09:19:38 AM »
godsavemetal,

the EM3007 is this project

here is how to convert a sad1024 electric mistress to a EM3007, using the mn3007.

http://thmq.mysteria.cz/em3007/em9v_sad_repl_v0_1.gif

Fender3D

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #129 on: February 12, 2019, 12:27:25 PM »
^^

sadly Roberto Barrios aka GodSaveMetal, left us on november 21 2016

R.I.P.
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

nepalnt21

Re: TDA1022 Flanger
« Reply #130 on: February 14, 2019, 06:41:02 PM »
 :icon_redface:

i'm sorry to hear this.  :icon_sad:

on a lighter note, i ordered a tda 1022 and this thread will be a great asset.