OT-ish: using negative rail for fan in amp?

Started by MrStab, April 01, 2019, 09:50:27 PM

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MrStab

hi,

i started building a stereo LM3886 amp ages ago, which initially had a pre-amp, but it was such a colossal pain in the arse in the enclosure size that all kinds of stuff kept going wrong and i just abandoned it. i've recently revived the project as just a power amp, and after another silicon massacre or two, it's working pretty well. despite a large heatsink, i'd like some airflow on the transformer and power filter/rectifier, so i want to put a 12V fan in there.

there's now a regulated +/-9V power supply going unused (a bit lower than the +/-15V or so you usually see in a pre-amp, as i used some Sanyo EQ chips with a lower max Vcc rating). i used the top half of that as a +9V output for pedals, because why not.

in order to give the +9V output as much available current as possible, for digital pedals or electrical fires, with the -9V regulator going to waste, would there be any major downside to hooking up the positive wire on the fan to 0V and the negative to -9V? noise or death or something? i would probably current-limit the fan further with a resistor, as well.
Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

bluebunny

Noise, perhaps (tack it in and have a listen).  Death, no.   8)
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

antonis

Place a 100nF ceramic cap between 0V & -9V (just because..)  :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

MrStab

i have a 4,700uF electro and 100nF straight outta the rectifier, with just a 100uF on the regulated output. the standard 7809 crap. should that suffice?

my first instinct is that dumping the negative from the fan onto -9V would be a bit like contaminating the drinking water, but the audio path is all pre-regulator at -28V, so maybe it'd be fine? i have no clue about any inherent noise characteristics from fans. i just don't know enough, really.

centre-tap isn't connected to enclosure (which IS safety-earthed), FWIW. i heard that can cause a bit of buzz.


Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

anotherjim

I think fan motors can be some kind of brushless type? Ordinarily, DC motors, because they usually have commutator/brush gear, put out lots of crackling interference noise unless fitted with a ceramic cap close to the motor. It would be safe to fit a 100nF ceramic anyway, as close to the motor as possible.

MrStab

#5
ah! okay, will def put a cap across it then. only ever used em in computers and a pedal PSU. as it's not a mission-critical thing, i ordered a total piece of crap (Evercool EC8010M12E) so i should expect the worst.

i'm used to the working approach that you dump unwanted signal stuff to ground, but i have a feeling i need to take conventional current vs. electron flow into account here. which way would any noise come out of the fan?

cheers for the info!
Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

anotherjim

Ye of little faith. How could a cooling fan called "Evercool" possibly fail?

MrStab

Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

antonis

If you have a little space availiable, you can make your fan "temperature sensitive" with only a general purpose op-amp, a driver BJT, some resistors, a trimmer and a couple of diodes (or BJTs wired as diodes).. :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

MrStab

i have to be totally honest, Antonis - even though i logically know everything is fine, i'm a bit phobic of adding too much more stuff. it just increases the odds of me overlooking something. i wouldn't care so much if it wasn't £5 a chip!! lol

maybe in future a control circuit like you described could be essential. i'll need to let the amp run at high volumes. the fan just arrived, it's a 3-wire one. no power or current rating, only voltage. i must be dealing with some high-end stuff here. i'm gonna try 2x 1W 33R resistors in series at first, to see how it goes. assuming fans are often 80R or so. 

it looks like i can stick a 47p cap under the sticker. hmm... i'll report back tonight

Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

MrStab

#10
so i got rid of the blue wire and managed to get a handy little space for a 47n ceramic by bending the red wire sideways a bit. 100nF was just a bit too big. this fan's on the baseplate, with a metal grill on the outside and a plastic one on the inside, so i need it to be flush on either side. covered it up with some electrical tape.



fan itself seems to work fine between 0 and -9V, no added noise as far as i can tell. it's nearly 2am so i can't test it at a decent level yet. at low volumes, the heatsink is a lot cooler to the touch despite the fan being slowed a fair bit.

here she is. lol



for anyone wondering, this is how i did the stereo/mono thing (the 0.47R resistors are 10W):


Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.