how to be an el-cheapo

[petemoore]

  Loop box and modules, then the switches and some of the knobs can stay the same, as well as the box...
  either multiple boxes or multiple effects in one box, being able to swap order of effects is handy if you're not familiar with what you like or what can be make to sound good.

[Top Top]

I  consider myself to be pretty cheapo. Most of my effects cost less than $10 in parts, many have been less than $5.

1. Never buy enclosures. I buy things from thrift stores that will work well as enclosures. This is not only economical, but also I like the way they look. I frequently see old computer hardware switching boxes (like serial and parallel switch boxes) at thrift stores. These are in great metal enclosures and they are full of colored wire which can be used for panel wiring. Also usually a big-ass rotary switch and a knob.

2. Salvage pots, jacks, and other hardware from thrifted stuff wherever possible (if I see an electronic box full of pots and jacks for $3, I will buy it just to take it apart).

3. Pick up stuff from the side of the road. I recently built a 10W amp, including the cab, almost entirely from stuff I found.

4. I never put 3PDT stomp switches on my effects. I have a couple of bypass loop pedals that I built (that have the DPDT in them - I don't bother with an LED to tell me it's on) and I use them to switch my effects in and out. I am rarely using all of my effects at once anyway, so don't really need each one to have a bypass on it.

5. As others have said, buy duplicates of parts when you order them. Many effects use common values. The shipping is usually a big part of the expense. Also it is rad to just have what you need on hand and not have to plan for everything you build.

6. Look for surplus and junk stores. I have a place where I can get all the plexiglass and metal I need for a few bucks. Most large cities will have places like this.

[petemoore]

1. Never buy enclosures.
  Raco...sometimes you just need any box now.
  Otherwise shop for boxes. I decided to take the approach [after getting some boxes whipped up, that enclosures are things that should be well thought through and finished before starting, I like using wood as a way to get very cheap enclosure, a few precut 'stalks', some gorilla glue and rubber bands basically gets a 'box', predrilling the lid for all the jacks 'n pots is the tricky part, 1/4'' is too thick for pot threads.
2. Salvage pots, jacks, and other hardware, thift stores, and put the word out, I've gotten trunkloads of stuff "If it has a wire coming out of it or has a knob or switch, I want it" is what I tell those who 'understand'.
3. Pick up stuff from the side of the road. I recently built a 10W amp, including the cab, almost entirely from stuff I found.
  Amazing deals on stuff from side of road, sometimes there are linear power supplies that can be adapted or are already grounded...just sitting there, excellent vintage irons in chassis w/the resistors I use and the capacitors I try not to use, free tube amp stuff that can be used is the best shopping ever, not as easy as it used to be.

[MoltenVoltage]

Build your own tools.

Some of the tools I have built include DC current testers using male and female jacks and banana plugs, an AC one using a wall plug attached to a 2x6 (total cost $4 compared to $30 for the one at Lowe's), a frequency/pulse counter which uses 3 rows of 10 LEDs with 3 cascaded decade counters (before I learned to program uCs), a logic probe using a $.99 car voltage tester housing, an IC pin bending tool (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80058.0) and a DIY table saw (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=82306.0).

The great part is you inevitably learn something when you make your own tools.

[Strategy]

see if your community has a computer salvage place. in portland we have Free Geek. they recycle computers and have a thrift store and volunteers can get a free or low cost Linux machine. In their thrift store they have old modems and switcher boxes. The switcher boxes can be perfect pedal sized. I got four from my dad, 1990s serial port things for switching printers.

The world has a LOT of computer trash...much of it well sized for pedal enclosures

- Strategy

[aziltz]

steal!

[studiostud]

Regarding the off-board component testing unit... I built something very similar.  You can see it here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=70472.msg568814#msg568814

I just wire the pots to the circuits since they usually change from pedal to pedal and then I solder the wires to length for the enclosure I will eventually use and then use the alligator clips to connect them to in/out and power/gnd.



Here's an interesting instructable for making PCBs.  Looks a lot cheaper in the long run than buying (and properly disposing) Ferric Chloride all the time:  http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/


and BTW... LOVE the idea about offering to make a pedal for a buddy for the cost of parts for two.  That idea is brilliant.

[Mark Hammer]

Don't forget modules--you don't necessarily need to be married to the concept that your pedals need to be footswitchable. If you realize that they don't (especially in the 'I'm not sure if I like it THAT much yet'), use toggle dpdt switches instead of 3pdts for bypassing and make a modular setup (check out the modular ideas at Geofex for SUPER-cheap ideas).

Bingo.  I got tired of:
a) having to shell out for boxes,
b) having to step into a cold garage to machine the boxes,
c) having to catch grief from my wife for the smells that were coming into the kitchen from the garage when I would paint the boxes,
d) spending money on big jacks, big plugs, and stompswitches,
e) the sheer nuisance of repatching a pedalboard, and the limitations of NOT repatching it.

So, I went modular.

The cost of "the package" (box, jacks, switch, paint, battery) when added up, comes to around $10 on a good day with the wind at your back, and more often something like $15-20.  The cost of the package for my modular system was $0.25@ for the faceplate, $1.50@ for the toggle, and $0.50@ for the jacks,  I suppose we can add another $0.50 on top of that for the paint pen, perfboard and wire, plus about $10 for the overall chassis to house the modules.

You can read more about it here:  http://music-electronics-forum.com/t10177-post80136/#poststop

[Rectangular]

@ Mark Hammer:   I love the stapled on faux-tolex 

I stopped distinguishing between guitar effects and synth modules a long time ago. a lot of the more interesting guitar pedals were basically adapted from synthesizers to begin with. Frostwave units, and Moogerfoogers were the right idea.  I love all of the Maestro, Moog, Korg, and Roland pedals from the 1970s and 1980s.

[studiostud]

One more thing I came across recently regarding making PCBs....  http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/

I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like this method would significantly reduce your cost of materials if you're making your own PCBs.  If you're not, I would highly recommend looking into starting.  It's really a drop in the bucket price-wise compared to buying pre-fab PCBs and with a little know-how, it's really not a complicated process.

[phector2004]

wow that looks ridiculously easy!

might even try it for my current project

are there any GOOD alternatives to laser-printing then melting the toner onto the copper side?

[philbinator1]

Don't forget modules--you don't necessarily need to be married to the concept that your pedals need to be footswitchable. If you realize that they don't (especially in the 'I'm not sure if I like it THAT much yet'), use toggle dpdt switches instead of 3pdts for bypassing and make a modular setup (check out the modular ideas at Geofex for SUPER-cheap ideas).

Bingo.  I got tired of:
a) having to shell out for boxes,
b) having to step into a cold garage to machine the boxes,
c) having to catch grief from my wife for the smells that were coming into the kitchen from the garage when I would paint the boxes,
d) spending money on big jacks, big plugs, and stompswitches,
e) the sheer nuisance of repatching a pedalboard, and the limitations of NOT repatching it.

So, I went modular.

The cost of "the package" (box, jacks, switch, paint, battery) when added up, comes to around $10 on a good day with the wind at your back, and more often something like $15-20.  The cost of the package for my modular system was $0.25@ for the faceplate, $1.50@ for the toggle, and $0.50@ for the jacks,  I suppose we can add another $0.50 on top of that for the paint pen, perfboard and wire, plus about $10 for the overall chassis to house the modules.

You can read more about it here:  http://music-electronics-forum.com/t10177-post80136/#poststop

Um excuse my ignorance but what the hell is that!?     do you control it with footswitches or something?

[space_ryerson]

Mark, that's great! What are the dimensions of the box and modules?

[caress]

hmmm...get over it and shell out the extra $10 on a one of a kind pedal you build for yourself?  it's still cheaper than buying something new most of the time...  otherwise, spend your time driving around to free craigslist ads, garage sales, flea markets, thrift stores, etc etc.

other people who responded gave really good ideas... just trying to give another perspective. 

[MoltenVoltage]

wow that looks ridiculously easy!

might even try it for my current project

are there any GOOD alternatives to laser-printing then melting the toner onto the copper side?

The laser print/toner melt technique works famously.  I etched my first 3 boards last weekend, and three more this weekend using Muriatic Acid (38%) from Lowe's and Hydrogen Peroxide.  Mix it 1 part acid into 2 parts perodixe and wear a mask and eye protection!

I used a #60 bit for pretty much all the holes.

Here is the secret I learned after watching about 10 different youtube videos that makes life VERY simple....

With the iron on high, preheat the PCB for a minute with an unprinted piece of photo paper before you put the transfer in place.  Pull it off then apply the transfer.  The transfer will stick quickly, so make sure you have it aligned before you commit.

Iron the hell out of it for a good 2 songs, then throw it in a bucket of water for 5 minutes.  The photo paper peels right off without any extra stickage.  The toner parts might have some residue, but I found that leaving it doesn't make any difference in the transfer.  Just rub it a bit with your thumbs to make sure there isn't anything in between traces, but again, there probably won't be any.  I just laugh when I see videos of people scrubbing away with toothbrushes etc.

I used Kodak basic Photo Paper, CAT 820 9017 and a Brother Laser printer I got at Staples for $49 (HL-2140)

Now the laser printer is another funny story.  I had to print a whole bunch of pages and when you get them new they give you about a half a toner cartridge which is supposed to last like 800 pages.  Well mine was printing fine then just crapped out at about 150 pages.  The Toner light came on, so I took the toner cartridge out and shook it up like I used to with my HP, then put it back in and the light was still on.  I didn't get mad, I got google.  I found a thread that talked about this exact problem and it turns out Brother uses an optical sensor to detect low toner.  There is a little window on each side of the printer cartridge and a light source and detector on opposite sides of the printer that shines through and figures out how much toner you have by how much light gets through.

So it turns out all you need to do is put a little electrical tape over the sensors on the printer and it will keep printing.  I have printed at least 800 more pages and it's still going strong on the first cartridge.

Re PCBs, I bought my first ones at Rat Shack for $5 each, but I looked around ebay and it looks like you can get a dozen for $5.  Has anyone tried those?

[Mark Hammer]

Um excuse my ignorance but what the hell is that!?     do you control it with footswitches or something?

It's a custom "frac rac".  Modules are patched via cables, and modules are switched in two ways.  One way is the obvious toggle (true bypass in miniature), and the other way is via solid state switches, shown in those unfinished EPFM Switch modules.  Those yellow slots hold two nondedicated assignable switches, that will be enabled via a floor unit with four latching and four non-latching switches.  The EPFM switches permit one to  use either type.  Nonlatched is for when you just want to engage an effect (or combination) for a brief passage, and have it revert back the moment you lift your foot off.  Latching is for when you want them to stay on.  So, I could run a cable to an EQ, then to a switch, then to a quartet of distortions (with 3 toggled off and one on), then back to the switch and off to an autowah.  The switch engages the whole loop in that instance, but I can pick which of the distortions I want to use when the loop is engaged, simply by toggling them.  Nice thing about toggles is you can see when they"re up (off) or down (on).

Mark, that's great! What are the dimensions of the box and modules?

The panels are 2.5" x 4" each, and came anodized, 4/$1 at a surplus place (the store is now ancient history, sadly).  The box has two rows of 6, and is about 16" wide, 5.5" deep and about 10" high.  Two boxes give me 24 modules of my chosing.  While 2.5 x 4 doesn't seem like much,because I don't have to leave space for phone jacks, battery or stompswitch, there is a lot more usable space under the panel than one might find in a Hammond box.  Note as well that I can stack circuit boards on top of each other with spacers, as long as the total depth doesn't exceed 5 inches or so back from the panel.  Naturally, inside the box is a regulated power supply with a bus for sharing power. 

The good thing about modular is that it is cheap and flexible.  The bad thing about modular is that it is generally proprietary.  However, I included a few splitter blender modules to permit interfacing with the outside world.

[tiges_ tendres]

One more thing I came across recently regarding making PCBs....  http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/

I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like this method would significantly reduce your cost of materials if you're making your own PCBs.  If you're not, I would highly recommend looking into starting.  It's really a drop in the bucket price-wise compared to buying pre-fab PCBs and with a little know-how, it's really not a complicated process.

OH MY!  This is a messier method, but what a time save if it works!  I can clean up any extra mess for the most part, but I cant get the time it takes to etch the boards back.

I might do it a little differently.  I'd probably pour some ferric on a sponge in a plastic dish, and then rub the board over the sponge in the dish.  I think this might help minimize the mess factor.  Id' probably use a little more solution this way, but it's still a 95% saving over how I used to do it!

[space_ryerson]

Mark, that's great! What are the dimensions of the box and modules?

The panels are 2.5" x 4" each, and came anodized, 4/$1 at a surplus place (the store is now ancient history, sadly).  The box has two rows of 6, and is about 16" wide, 5.5" deep and about 10" high.  Two boxes give me 24 modules of my chosing.  While 2.5 x 4 doesn't seem like much,because I don't have to leave space for phone jacks, battery or stompswitch, there is a lot more usable space under the panel than one might find in a Hammond box.  Note as well that I can stack circuit boards on top of each other with spacers, as long as the total depth doesn't exceed 5 inches or so back from the panel.  Naturally, inside the box is a regulated power supply with a bus for sharing power. 

The good thing about modular is that it is cheap and flexible.  The bad thing about modular is that it is generally proprietary.  However, I included a few splitter blender modules to permit interfacing with the outside world.

I really think that you nailed the size/form factor. It reminds me of the Mattson mini-modular format, but I think yours fits guitar playing better somehow. The switching solution is good too.

[differo]

Recently I went on a salvaging crusade in local (and not so local) second hand stores and found some really nice stuff like old tape recorders (the big ones with BIG tapes on a role) some old tube radios (one I actually fixed and added an input for a guitar and it actually sounds really nice (two 8'' speakers all-tube power amp which I believe is around 2W). My goal was to build some stuff only with salvaged parts (at least electronics and some mechanical stuff if feasible). I've built valvecaster in that fashion (easier with vero or perf builds as you have odd sizes of components often times). Actually it feels really good to build stuff with old salvaged stuff as this is direct-deluxe-recycling . Yesterday I wanted to build a audio probe and I mechanically reached for my cap-box to grab some dc-blocker but of course changed my mind and took one from my salvage-box. Old PC power-supplies have some stuff in them and most people have few of those in their garages/basements/attics. Audio probe in my local electronics store costs around $12 and it was totally free as I used a pen some wire one cap and voila! And I'm not cheap, I do tend to spend more money on this 'hobby' then it would be to buy new/old pedals but this is just toooo giving and fun.

[petemoore]

 
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