Author Topic: pix of Custom built guitar amps/cabs (Read 445273 times)

alanp · « **Reply #360 on:** November 03, 2013, 11:24:34 AM »

I'm not sure I'd have the bravery to try and build this! Is that a speaker out on the back panel? Tried it through a 4x12?

thomasha · « **Reply #361 on:** November 03, 2013, 02:03:23 PM »

I don't have a how-to-do, but schematics and eagle pcb are here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cs8si2vvei7z9oe/jcm800sub2.sch

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbyhso39tjdbfon/jcm800sub2.brd

With some changes it's possible to build this inside a 1590b or 1590bb.

I just printed the the islands and made a fake turret board with steel nails. Soldered the components, and the submini russian tubes (6n17b and 6n16b). The heaters are in series/parallel wiring to provide 6V for each tube, at 400mA.

The B+ supply is a Max1771 based SMPS that i copied from Frequency Central projects (thanks!). It runs from a 12V 2A wallwart, to the heaters and the SMPS that provides 200V. The SMPS is outside the main chassi, mainly because of the inductor noise.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edzqoe21mo9ptxt/max2.brd

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0cn8xt07s7p79cz/max2.sch

The speakers are 2 old oval 4 ohm 3W computer speakers in series. I also put an output jack to use with bigger cabinets, but unfortunately i don't have a 4x12 to test it with.

Have you seen the videos?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79544.msg942552#msg942552

davent · « **Reply #362 on:** November 03, 2013, 02:07:58 PM »

In that other thread there's nothing to reference the amp size to (unless you're intimate with submini tubes) so you have no idea just how tiny the actual project is. Again... Very, very cool!

therealfindo · « **Reply #363 on:** November 07, 2013, 01:34:43 PM »

Finished my 1 x10 Cab:

Couldn't quite get the grill cloth as tight as I'd hoped..

Jensen C10Q - 8 ohms

deadastronaut · « **Reply #364 on:** November 07, 2013, 01:36:29 PM »

nice!.

love the colour..

tca · « **Reply #365 on:** November 08, 2013, 09:37:04 AM »

Removed the cloth... it was heating to many highs!

stallik · « **Reply #366 on:** November 08, 2013, 10:05:07 AM »

I've found that canvas pliers are great for stretching grill cloth so tight it rings like a drum. There are cheap versions on ebay

seedlings · « **Reply #367 on:** November 08, 2013, 11:45:55 AM »

Quote from: tca on November 08, 2013, 09:37:04 AM

Removed the cloth... it was heating to many highs!

Try aluminum or fiberglass window screen. Very acoustically transparent, and looks cool - especially with 2 or 3 layers.

CHAD

therealfindo · « **Reply #368 on:** November 09, 2013, 05:07:13 AM »

Quote from: stallik on November 08, 2013, 10:05:07 AM

I've found that canvas pliers are great for stretching grill cloth so tight it rings like a drum. There are cheap versions on ebay

How do you attach it to the board / frame? I just stapled it on... not sure that's how it should be done though

stallik · « **Reply #369 on:** November 09, 2013, 06:40:09 AM »

Staples are great for me. Just took a look at the baffle on my boogie cab. They appear to use staples fired by a machine gun! Must add about a pound to the weight of the cab...

therealfindo · « **Reply #370 on:** November 09, 2013, 09:03:10 AM »

Quote from: stallik on November 09, 2013, 06:40:09 AM

Staples are great for me. Just took a look at the baffle on my boogie cab. They appear to use staples fired by a machine gun! Must add about a pound to the weight of the cab...

haha!

amptramp · « **Reply #371 on:** November 09, 2013, 10:22:07 AM »

The right frame for the speaker cloth could be an old drum head retainer from the top of a snare drum:

Instead of holding a drum head, just have it hold the cloth. If you have an old snare drum that is beyond resurrection and is the right size, it would be killer to have it stick out a bit from the cabinet with all the chromed hardware.

Jdansti · « **Reply #372 on:** November 17, 2013, 12:54:11 AM »

There are so many great looking cabs in this thread that I almost don't want to post mine. I'm not much of a carpenter. I just completed this Woody Noisy Cricket amp. It started as a small cab for the 8" speaker, but I couldn't pass up placing a Noisy Cricket in it along with a Solstice reverb. The wood is scrap oak stair treads from overhauling our staircase. I applied tung oil to stain it. It's so thick and blocky that I just bolted it all together with long screws and used some glue. It's pretty sturdy and heavy, and I can't believe how loud it is!

Now I just need to figure out how to label the controls. I'm thinking about a plate that's either etched or has toner transfer a-la Dead Astronaut's technique. Any other ideas?

haveyouseenhim · « **Reply #373 on:** November 17, 2013, 02:17:44 AM »

Man, that thing is a beast. It looks great and also doubles as jack stand if you get a flat

Jdansti · « **Reply #374 on:** November 17, 2013, 02:38:49 AM »

^ It laughs at your tannerite!

deadastronaut · « **Reply #375 on:** November 17, 2013, 04:15:39 AM »

@john: thats nice and chunky..

copperclad board ironed or etched?...i plan on using that for my diy guitar scratchplate

Jdansti · « **Reply #376 on:** November 17, 2013, 12:21:37 PM »

Rob,

Thanks! That's a good idea, and if I clear coat it, it should stay shiny.

Jdansti · « **Reply #377 on:** November 17, 2013, 12:46:33 PM »

You gave me an idea about other metals that can be etched. Craft stores sell blanks of different shapes and sizes designed to be etched. Check out this vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5gyBoK_UVY

peterg · « **Reply #378 on:** November 17, 2013, 07:03:42 PM »

Nosiy Cricket Amp

Jdansti · « **Reply #379 on:** November 17, 2013, 07:14:50 PM »

Another sturdy Noisy Cricket! Nice!

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Author Topic: pix of Custom built guitar amps/cabs (Read 445273 times)