Positive ground Fuzz Face offboard wiring clarification needed.

[lazerphea]

Hello, it's me again, with my newest n00b question...
I'm in the process of boxing my Pisitive ground Fuzz Face, and I've found this picture in the wiki:



Assuming I don't want to include the DC jack in the wiring, and it seems it isn't contemplated in this picture neither, I'm a bit confused about what-wiring-with-what.
From my perfboard comes essentially 4 wires (exception made for the pots' ones): circuit input, circuit output, black wire (-9V), red wire (+GND): input and output wires are connected to the 3PDT as shown in figure, but my confusion stems from the question: "where do I wire the battery leads?"
My answer is:
- red battery lead connected on the perfboard, to supply the positive ground, and the red wire form my circuit to the LED's anode
- black battery lead to the 3PDT as indicated in figure ("to black battery lead connection")
Now I'm left with the black wire (-9V) out of my perfboard and with the connection on the 3PDT named "to ground"... should I connect them? I don't think so, but I wait for your input!
Thanks all!

[FUZZZZzzzz]

http://www.newtone-online.nl/downloads/3pdtpc.pdf

this pdf shows all components.. just take out the dc adapter and youll see just how to wire it..

[lazerphea]

http://www.newtone-online.nl/downloads/3pdtpc.pdf

this pdf shows all components.. just take out the dc adapter and youll see just how to wire it..

thank you for your input, but it seems to be for negative ground circuits... moreover the 3PDT is mounted on a PCB and I can't understand how connections are made... the language doesn't help neither...
Please be patient!

[FUZZZZzzzz]

sorry dude! my heads still sleeping.. that was a useless post..

[lazerphea]

sorry dude! my heads still sleeping.. that was a useless post..

No problem, man!

[petemoore]

  Get rid of everything except source [guitar], cable, and amp.
 Now cut the signal wire of the cable [whappens.
 Stick a boost circuit in there [nothing], apply 9v and get it wired right...boost!
 The boost can be + or - Gnd. as long as...it can be made to boost.
 Say everything works so far.
 Now you don't want to use a cut/spliced cable with boost/power supply hanging off it, so..in a box it goes.
 The cable is 'doubled' [the ground is also cut, making 'worms' with 2 conductors each = 2x: 1/4'' mono phono plug cables.
 Now the circuit works again [after fiddling with it] and is in a box, with an input jack/cable and output jack/cable, power supply still hanging off the side.
 But you want a bypass switch. Choose...2PDT and be able to bypass both input and output through a jumper wire across 2 switch lugs...
 That ='s 6 lugs, measure using DMM, switch, jacks, plugs, cables so when the cables are in the box, the inputJack>switch>input to board works. Make sure the output from board to switch to output jack works. Best way is to study the switch online or with the DMM...map connections between every lug possible, hit the switch...do it again [mounting the switch makes it easy to establish and maintain 'north/south' on the switch while testing connectivities while in each switched mode.
 Bypass 2pDt wiring:
    1JUMPER4
IN<2           5>OUT
 BI3           6BO
 =board input wire, board output wire
 = IN from Jack
 So, the tip/tip [from each plugged in cable to effect box jacks] connection is made when switch is in bypass, the same is true except the circuit is spliced in the wire [remember we started by cutting only the cable signal conductor] when the switch is in efkt mode.
 Works again, but has features too !
 Now we want the input plug to defeat the power supply when disconnected.
 Run the *battery *ground to ring of input jack, a stereo 1/4'' phono jack...the sleeve connected to the circuit ground, so far the battery clip *black wire is floating, NC....when a 1/4'' mono plug is inserted:
 The battery ground is connected to the circuit through: battery clip/JacKring>Plugsleeve>Plugsleeve>JACKsleeve.
 Then you want a DC jack that also switches...follow the schematic and use a recommended switching DC jack...or something else like what I do:
 A nice power supply allows the more 'evolved' build to forget about the battery, input switching jack [maybe even DC jacks and plugs/just hardwire the PS], and ''related complicated''...since connecting the power works, no battery to worry about draining or even connecting to the circuit.
 Battery hanging out the side is fairly common to one of my new circuits, then it gets a PS, the B-clip comes off..or tucked in/insulated.  
  With a verified schematic, making the board follow exactly [including the 'action marks' ie..switched DC, Input or other switches/switched jacks], then verifying everything with DMM, works.
  Figuring out what a switch switches, a jack switches and how the monoplug makes a stereo jack into an SPST// [and signal + ground connection]...anything everything else, using DMM is a good idea. To understand a jack or DC jack may require the plug to be plugged in and unplugged for every/all/every other test...what may look like a simply two conductor DC jack may have 3 lugs, a switch, and a confusing thing in it until every possible mapping of it is understood.

[deadastronaut]

have you looked at 'general guitar gadgets'  site they have wiring diagrams for various fuzz's .....might help ya...

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ff5_lo_pnp.pdf

good luck rob.

[zombiwoof]

Hello, it's me again, with my newest n00b question...
I'm in the process of boxing my Pisitive ground Fuzz Face, and I've found this picture in the wiki:



Assuming I don't want to include the DC jack in the wiring, and it seems it isn't contemplated in this picture neither, I'm a bit confused about what-wiring-with-what.
From my perfboard comes essentially 4 wires (exception made for the pots' ones): circuit input, circuit output, black wire (-9V), red wire (+GND): input and output wires are connected to the 3PDT as shown in figure, but my confusion stems from the question: "where do I wire the battery leads?"
My answer is:
- red battery lead connected on the perfboard, to supply the positive ground, and the red wire form my circuit to the LED's anode
- black battery lead to the 3PDT as indicated in figure ("to black battery lead connection")
Now I'm left with the black wire (-9V) out of my perfboard and with the connection on the 3PDT named "to ground"... should I connect them? I don't think so, but I wait for your input!
Thanks all!

That wiring diagram doesn't look like the common FF wiring to me, there should be a jumper across two of the lugs.  You want the wiring diagram that grounds the board input when in bypass, that is what the original FF's used.  You can find that diagram at various places on the net.

Al

[lazerphea]

Thanks everyone for the hints, especially to Pete... I'm still very confused about the wiring, but I'll try to sort it out and let you know!

[zombiwoof]

I was mistaken, that wiring diagram DOES ground the board input in bypass, I didn't look close enough.

Here's a diagram from GGG, for true bypass w/LED, and no power jack, that also grounds the input in bypass.  It might be easier for you to figure out, as it shows all of the connections to the board, etc.:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_battery.gif

I hope that helps you understand the wiring a little better.

Oh, crap, I just noticed that you were already given the GGG wiring that is specific to the Fuzz Face, same as what I gave a link to but the one I gave is a general diagram.  The one I linked to is the one without a power jack connection, though, which I think is what you want, so between the two I think you can figure it out.  Oh well, I think you've got it covered now!

Al

[lazerphea]

Ok, after a couple of days of mumbling, I came out with this:



Please, can someone tell me if it's ok or not?

[Pierre]

hi !!
I recently posted a problem with GGG's Fuzz Face wiring  diagram, I'm not sure but there's a mistake in this one:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ff5_lo_pnp.pdf

...I think this one is correct, at least, my Fuzz Face is alive wiring it this way (just leave the DC jack out)...

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ff5_lo_b69.pdf

Pierre

[lazerphea]

Thank you Pierre!
It seems to me it's equivalent to mine... am I wrong?

[lazerphea]

Just finished wiring the Fuzz Face using the diagram I've posted AND... it doesn't work
The led lights up, the battery gets very hot, and the stompbox sounds like crap...

[petemoore]

the battery gets very hot
  ...time to unplug and prepare another cup of tea.
  But you wont', you'll have to know why first.
  Shorting supply. Figure one of the wires recently connected [or somethin's touchin'..somewhere], is what is causeing the hard to find shorting condition, one of those 'find it anyway' things, there are no flags or tips to really look for, except what can be derived from close-in light and mag-glass inspections...so...maybe pulled a plug will give a clue about where 'it' shouldn't be made [somewhere + meets -], otherwise careful backsteps [combined with more intense and relaxed analysis] generally locates the wrongstep.
  Kudos for hanging with.
  When connecting and learning how to read 'between lines on schematics, there are places where what should seem right just...goes on the left instead for some reason, there's no real way of knowing without knowing.

[lazerphea]

the battery gets very hot
  ...time to unplug and prepare another cup of tea.
  But you wont', you'll have to know why first.
  Shorting supply. Figure one of the wires recently connected [or somethin's touchin'..somewhere], is what is causeing the hard to find shorting condition, one of those 'find it anyway' things, there are no flags or tips to really look for, except what can be derived from close-in light and mag-glass inspections...so...maybe pulled a plug will give a clue about where 'it' shouldn't be made [somewhere + meets -], otherwise careful backsteps [combined with more intense and relaxed analysis] generally locates the wrongstep.
  Kudos for hanging with.
  When connecting and learning how to read 'between lines on schematics, there are places where what should seem right just...goes on the left instead for some reason, there's no real way of knowing without knowing.

HA! Mr. Moore, you were right... again! After taking a restorating sleep, I woke up this morning, inspected the box, and found out that one of the audio jacks' contact was touching the stompbox... I gently rotated it, and everything's fine now!!
I posted a picture of it in the Pictures thread.
Thanks again Pete!!

[petemoore]

  Thanks right back...great job !
   "Just never let it beat you, you can't lose".
     [in private: It'll mock your defeat if you let it know you're beat].  

[lazerphea]

 Thanks right back...great job !
   "Just never let it beat you, you can't lose".
     [in private: It'll mock your defeat if you let it know you're beat].  

Uhm... after a more accurate analysis, the circuit sounds exactly like the first sample I posted, so it sounds very wrong...
Hell, I've tried it at 7.00 in the morning yesterday, so at a very low volume it seemed eveything was ok...
I didn't had time to work on it yet, but I've seen that the same audio jack's contact that was touching the box before, now touches the drive pot... could be this??
[ok Pete, now you can mock me ]

[lazerphea]

Edit: No, the problem is not the jack's contact: I think somewhere I'm mixing positive and negative ground. Chances are my offboard wiring schema is not correct... uhm...

[petemoore]

  I would start with new clean debugging thread on this one.
  A Schematic suitable for the transistors you have.
  Transistor pin voltages [and transistor type, [PNP or NPN] etc.
  It becomes confusing and just plain long. This thread served a good purpose, but cleaning it all up and making it more concise is a good thing right now anyway.
  For the 470 I put 470k, 3 times. Only takes one bug to prevent it from being a Fuzzface.