Could I subtrack myself to public humiliation? Of course not! Ladies and gentleman, here's the ugly, clingy, mirrored version of the EM3007!
It's actually not that bad.
Scratches on the PCB are removed bridges between the traces? Did you check by DMM that bridges are removed (visual check is sometimes not good enough)?
Unfortunately you have gave us only one view of each area (I have asked for more angles), so I cannot check lot of the components and wiring. What I could check (most of the resistors and caps around LFO and clock, Q's orientation, pot wiring, mode switch wiring..) looks OK.
Soundclip sounds like some DC problem, what power source are you using? Can you try different one? You have not answered my question about RT3 either, there could be another lead to plucking issue (clock freeze above some frequency - but it sounds quite different IIRC).
About distortion one thing popped up in my head - you have mentioned that status LED does not work - is it still true? If yes maybe miswired LED hangs on the output and causes overdrive effect..?
T.
Ok, so, changing the Led's wiring made it work, but the sound's still popping like before.
About RT3, sorry for oversighting the question, if I turn the wheel to the max or to the min, it starts whistling and my ears begin to explode.
The power source is a Regulated Universal Voltage Adapter by HQ Power, working at MAX 500mA and outputs values between 1,5 and 12 Vdc. Power is 6VA. It whistles a bit, but it works nonetheless.
The first smoke was totally a polarity problem.
I began to wonder, could it be the Diodes? I'm currently measuring 0.35V on D1, oscillating 0,00-0,42 on D2 and 8.03 on Zener D3 (yeah, it's a 15V).
I think we're close to the solution, apart from this popping problem it's a really fun pedal, do you know how much I searched it at good price to play a Rush song with a decent sound? And then I found this thread...I will surely reward you all with some Rush covers (yeeee)
..wrong button..
I hope you're not referring to the SPDT.