Russian Civil War Big Muff Jack Socket Replacement

Started by Aviator, November 30, 2013, 05:16:59 AM

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Aviator

Has anybody ever replaced the jack sockets on an old Russian Civil War Big Muff.  The current sockets are the old Russian made, grey type and are attached directly to the circuit board.  On the bottom it seems to have around 10 connections to the jack socket instead of the usual 6 connections for a stereo socket.  I need to know how to convet it to the newer sockets?

disabled_shredder

Can you post a pic of the jack? Top and pcb side. I might have the ones you are talking about. I came across a box of jacks and I found a bunch with 9-10 pins. I just threw them in another box.
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Aviator

Thanks, but how do I upload the pictures but it just adds the text. ???

duck_arse

you can't post picture here, you need a hosting service. like imageshack or (yuk) dropbox or similar. you post there, they give you a set of link addresses, and you post the link here.

then we all look at your work. and welcome to the forum.
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duck_arse

those sockets are ugly brutes, no?

on the top socket in https://www.dropbox.com/sc/61tbgq1vkq7a651/y3mCncbi0r, the connection closest to the jack thread is sleeve, and the only other connection will be tip. that one is easy.

so the bottom socket, sleeve is in the same spot, tip is in the same spot. that's 2 connections down. the 2 connections shorted together in the right hadn row are sleeve, and so ground. that leaves the middle row connection, which will connect to one of those flat wires, yes, which will be a battery connection? so that will be ring.

easy, done.
You hold the small basket while I strain the gnat.

disabled_shredder

Ce distributors has them. I also have a bunch pm me w ur email and ill take a picture of mine and send it to u.
The wild man with a loaded gun and no plan. I'm not held back by rules, just don't know which ones to follow

m_charles

I have done this a few times. It takes a bit of work, but you can put in a standard enclosed switchcraft jack, and separate it from the PCB altogether making the pedal also, waaaay more reliable.
first thing, do you have a DMM with a "beep" on it to show connections audibly?
The end result looks really nice too.
I can maybe mark up your pic to show you but I won't bother unless you tell me you'd like to do it.

wavley

#9
Quote from: m_charles on December 04, 2013, 12:21:39 AM
I have done this a few times. It takes a bit of work, but you can put in a standard enclosed switchcraft jack, and separate it from the PCB altogether making the pedal also, waaaay more reliable.
first thing, do you have a DMM with a "beep" on it to show connections audibly?
The end result looks really nice too.
I can maybe mark up your pic to show you but I won't bother unless you tell me you'd like to do it.

If the Civil War muff's jacks are mounted anything like my transition green muff, this is a little more difficult.  I just leave mine in the loop of my truly beautiful disaster so I don't have to deal with it's issues so much and leave it stock.  If I just leave it on and velcro'd in place everything is cool.

This is a picture of one I found on teh webz



I thought Steve had some of these jacks, but it looks like he doesn't anymore.  Maybe you can just use washers and switchcrafts, or maybe these http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=798 are close enough to the footprint.
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