Ludwig Phase II Clone Debugging and Miscellany

[R.G.]

The power supply that R.G. have suggested is not available from mouser right now and I'm looking for something similar to do the job.

Will this one works for the project?

I think it will, yes.

[digi2t]

Something I discovered recently, and I'm using it for my Ring Stinger clone project.

I've found a really nice enclosure, courtesy of a gentleman in the UK (I believe). It's a larger than the recommended Hammond model, so it will adequately handle the Phase II. I took the liberty of taking some pictures, along with the two Phase II boards laying inside, so everyone can get an idea of the scale;









The external dimensions are; 8.74" X 5.75" X 2.17" (222 X 146 X 55 mm).

I found it at Newark, it's made by MULTICOMP . The Newark P/N is 55T2820 ($23.31) for the plain aluminium, 55T2821 ($25.08) for the black, and 55T2822 ($25.08) for grey. The MULTICOMP P/N's are; G124MF (plain), G124MFBK (black), and G124MFLG (grey). The "F" in all the P/N's stands for "Flange". For a non-flanged box, omit the "F".

I don't think you'll find an enclosure this roomy at this price in the Hammond line. Especially considering that this enclosure is also watertight, the cover comes with a rubber o-ring that seals the works.

Although the UK suppliers, Rapid and Farnell, carry the same model without the flanged sides, Newark only has this model with the flanges. So, you could cut them off quite easily with a disc grinder, cut-off saw, etc. Or, use them as I have done here, to give it a bit of an "industrial/rack mount" look. The flanges are already drilled, at 3.5" centers. The handles come from Home Hardware, with... well look at that!, 3.5" centers! 

Cheers,
Dino

[pinkjimiphoton]

wow, nice find dino, that looks just about perfect...and some ROOM to mount components...well done!!

[digi2t]

wow, nice find dino, that looks just about perfect...and some ROOM to mount components...well done!!

Yup, kinda like my old '64 Bel-Air. Tool box on the fender skirt, lunch box on the air cleaner, and me, standing next to the block, feet on the ground either side of the A arms. 

[pinkjimiphoton]

dude, you would LOVE my roomate's 68 440 roadrunner...but no room in there to stand!! lol

rips and snorts like a pack of harleys thru a wall of marshalls dimed.

you know, like a skyripper or something.

[charmonder]

Awesome! Thanks for all this info, and nice heads up on that box! I love the rails.

[RonaldB]

I'm having trouble finding a 48v dc adapter for this project.
What's the minimum voltage this circuit needs to work good.
I can find 24v adapters really easy here in the Netherlands.

RonaldB

[R.G.]

I'm having trouble finding a 48v dc adapter for this project.
What's the minimum voltage this circuit needs to work good.
I can find 24v adapters really easy here in the Netherlands.

It needs about 36-38V minimum to work as per the original. If your question is "Will this work right on 24Vdc?", then the answer is no. If you are really stuck finding a 48Vdc adapter, you can use an adapter that puts out 28-30V *AC* and a full wave bridge rectifier to generate the proper DC voltage on the boards, much like the original did.

[Keppy]

I'm having trouble finding a 48v dc adapter for this project.
What's the minimum voltage this circuit needs to work good.
I can find 24v adapters really easy here in the Netherlands.

It needs about 36-38V minimum to work as per the original. If your question is "Will this work right on 24Vdc?", then the answer is no. If you are really stuck finding a 48Vdc adapter, you can use an adapter that puts out 28-30V *AC* and a full wave bridge rectifier to generate the proper DC voltage on the boards, much like the original did.

In fact, I believe the components are all still in place on the console board to accept AC power without any modifications whatsoever, if it comes from a center-tapped transformer.

[R.G.]

They are. Actually, it might even work with a non-CT, but it would be half-wave-rectified.

In retrospect, I should have put a 6-pin DIP full wave bridge on there for just this kind of emergency. I'll do that if I ever upgrade the PCB.

I'm a little bummed that we don't have even a single build of this yet. I know, I should get off my duff and build mine. But I have an excuse. I've been prototyping candidates for next year's effects lineup. Yep - building effects is getting in the way of building effects. 

[theehman]

They are. Actually, it might even work with a non-CT, but it would be half-wave-rectified.

In retrospect, I should have put a 6-pin DIP full wave bridge on there for just this kind of emergency. I'll do that if I ever upgrade the PCB.

I'm a little bummed that we don't have even a single build of this yet. I know, I should get off my duff and build mine. But I have an excuse. I've been prototyping candidates for next year's effects lineup. Yep - building effects is getting in the way of building effects. 

I've been waiting for a friend to label and clearcoat my housing but he's apparently not in any hurry.

[Keppy]

I'm a little bummed that we don't have even a single build of this yet.

Me too!

I know, I should get off my duff and build mine. But I have an excuse. I've been prototyping candidates for next year's effects lineup. Yep - building effects is getting in the way of building effects. 

Same here, although I'm not building anything anyone's buying. It's just that with other stuff waiting to be built, it's hard to justify ANOTHER Phase II! 

[Vince_b]

I'm very eager to start building mine but I have to wait for the boards. I bought them from a forum member overseas and after 3 weeks I didn't received it yet. The wait is killing me!

[Ry]

Mine is so close to being done. I just need to get the animation working. Maybe next weekend...

[pinkjimiphoton]

i got the boards, and all i gotta do now is when i can afford it order parts. gonna get as much as possible from tayda, the rest from mouser i guess. been so busy building easy things...

still intimidated by this one a bit!

[Vince_b]

I finally received my boards today. I haven't start populating them yet and I already have a question. Why the last two pots (bypass balance and low-Z balance) are not aligned with the other pots? It looks like it would have been easy to make them all aligned.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

@ Dino,

Check this out for future projects 

http://www.newark.com/hammond/1550g/enclosure-instrument-aluminum/dp/57R3912?in_merch=Popular%20Enclosures

Exact same dimensions... from Hammond.... without the flanges.... and cheaper! 

[Keppy]

That was done in my build so I could fit in the labels on the different control sections, as seen here:



R.G. left it that way because he liked having the "set and forget" controls offset. If you're not using board-mounted pots, it should be easy enough to move those two holes level with the others.

[digi2t]

@ Dino,

Check this out for future projects 

http://www.newark.com/hammond/1550g/enclosure-instrument-aluminum/dp/57R3912?in_merch=Popular%20Enclosures

Exact same dimensions... from Hammond.... without the flanges.... and cheaper! 

Nice catch dude! I hadn't seen that one. As for cheaper, yeah, a bit. Actually about the same price as the Multicomp's flangeless model.

At least now we have an alternative to the flanges.

Once again, nice find. Thanks a ton for sharing. 

[Vince_b]

R.G. left it that way because he liked having the "set and forget" controls offset. If you're not using board-mounted pots, it should be easy enough to move those two holes level with the others.

That make sense.
But I will probably put them all on the same level. Like you said, with non-board mounted pots it won't be hard to do.