Author Topic: Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03  (Read 13949 times)

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« on: October 05, 2003, 03:56:00 PM »
I will be checking this forum regularly.

Andy

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2003, 08:55:58 PM »
I cant get over how you did this without the use of jumpers.  Is it usually this easy?  Another question I have is....I assume there are other ways to lay this out, right?  Were these just the 3 ways you could come up wth?

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2003, 09:07:35 PM »
Quote from: Andy
I cant get over how you did this without the use of jumpers.  Is it usually this easy?  Another question I have is....I assume there are other ways to lay this out, right?  Were these just the 3 ways you could come up wth?


Remember the golden rule: As long as you connect them "correctly", the circuit will work. I could suspend these parts in the air and they would work.

Is it usually this easy? Well, a lot of circuits are doable and yes, this easy but more work. Think of the Big Muff, very simple really, but you have to do it 3 or 4 times over for each gain stage.

In general, most distortions are pretty darn easy, but possibly time consuming depending on how many stages.

I like to lay it out like the schematic because:

The schematic is usually drawn with common ground (ground on bottom).
The schematic usually goes from left to right with minimal crossing signals.
It's easier to debug and follow the signal if you can see the schematic and it looks just like your layout.
Most high gain amps are laid out from left to right with common ground.
As you can see, it's not bad to create a board with perfboard. It's very fast. Less than 20 minutes to do this .....
It's STRONG. Resistor and component leads are pretty strong.

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2003, 09:09:09 PM »
For IC distorters like my Shaka series, I have a proven layout for the op amp. I have it memorized. I can layout the op amp driver stage without a layout sheet.

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2003, 09:21:50 PM »
BTW: I have made over 90 circuits using perfboard. Probably more... but I can't remember anymore. Of course this includes proto circuits etc...

Andy

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2003, 10:50:50 PM »
aron, I noticed a mistake in your photo essay.  when you go on to solder in the 10uf output cap, you show that the 10K resister is already in place.  You haven't gotten to that point uyet.  Has anyone else noticed this, or did I miss something?

Another thing, I know this doesn't make a difference but, I am out of 10K's and have 11k's.  That won't matter since there is a 5% tolerence anyway, right?

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2003, 02:38:42 AM »
Quote from: Andy
aron, I noticed a mistake in your photo essay.  when you go on to solder in the 10uf output cap, you show that the 10K resister is already in place.  You haven't gotten to that point uyet.  Has anyone else noticed this, or did I miss something?

Another thing, I know this doesn't make a difference but, I am out of 10K's and have 11k's.  That won't matter since there is a 5% tolerence anyway, right?


I looks like I missed a step of placing the 10K bias resistor in.  Should be fixed now.

Thanks!

Yes, 11K should work.

BD13UK

Transistor Query !!!!!!!!!
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2003, 11:26:33 AM »
Hi Aron,
Could  this be put together using a 2N3094 with successful results as I have a bunch of them lying around

aron

Re: Transistor Query !!!!!!!!!
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2003, 02:08:56 PM »
Quote from: BD13UK
Hi Aron,
Could  this be put together using a 2N3094 with successful results as I have a bunch of them lying around


Absolutely.

Warpfingers

  • Guest
Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2003, 05:00:27 PM »
Hi all,

Just finished this booster.

Didn't have a socket and couldn't find info on the transistor (2n5088) here so i just dropped it in with the flat side facing the input cap and it works!

Wanna make sure its right though... there would be no sound if this tran was in backwards would there?

Thanks Aron for a very clear and complete guide.    

WF

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2003, 05:56:38 PM »
Quote from: Warpfingers
Hi all,

Just finished this booster.

Didn't have a socket and couldn't find info on the transistor (2n5088) here so i just dropped it in with the flat side facing the input cap and it works!

Wanna make sure its right though... there would be no sound if this tran was in backwards would there?

Thanks Aron for a very clear and complete guide.    

WF


A good way to find info on the transistor is to do a google search for:

datasheet 2n5088

Yes, you have it in the right way. Anyway, the drawing I made shows the pinout and the flat side towards input cap.

Very cool!

Thanks for the report!!!!

Warpfingers

  • Guest
Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2003, 06:03:11 PM »
:lol:

I never really looked at the drawing, but i guess it sunk in subconciuously...it just felt right to place it that way.

Thanks again Aron, you made it so simple to build this booster!

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2003, 04:52:57 PM »
Quote from: Warpfingers
:lol:

I never really looked at the drawing, but i guess it sunk in subconciuously...it just felt right to place it that way./quote]

I'm glad it worked out for you!!!!

The first one is always the hardest. It starts becoming really easy later.

tonepoet

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2003, 04:19:52 PM »
(I posted this originally in Sticky Post #4, but I think that it would stand a better chance of being read here)

Hi Aron,
I got most of my parts at Radio Shack (up here in Alaska, I don't have a lot of choices). Is there a real difference between that and the parts at Small Bear? Also, I saw some metal film resistors at the Shack, will this make a difference with the effect? I know that a lot of DIY'ers often speak of these. Also, if I hold down the soldering iron too long, will I fry parts? I am extremely sloppy at soldering, I may go get myself another board and some more parts and start over, it looks like hell compared to yours. I'm not sure if it works completely or not, I still have to attach the pot and jacks and switch. I can never thank you enough for doing this for all of us, I often read your post before, but having no experience other than modding a TS-9 every now and then, this is a breath of fresh air. Do you think that maybe at one point we can learn about an easy A/B switch, possibly a looper with a tuner out or something?

RJ

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2003, 02:13:31 AM »
Just finished building this tonight...although mine isn't actually working yet, the directions and pictures were very easy to follow and understand.  I am getting signal through the circuit but it's at a very low level. (I made an anti-booster!)  I'll trouble-shoot it tomorrow with a clear head, but in the meantime I have a couple of questions...

First, what's the proper way to actually mount the transistor in the socket?  Do I trim the leads and then solder the transistor into the socket, or is it supposed to click into the socket and not be soldered?

Second, I didn't notice at the time I was buying my parts, but my 10 mf cap is an axial type, not radial...I'm not positive I've installed it properly as it isn't overly clear which is the positive and negative lead...is that type of capacitor even useable, or should I not have used it at all?  

Thanks again for the excellent walk-through of this project, I'm definitely learning a lot!

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2003, 12:30:28 AM »
Quote
First, what's the proper way to actually mount the transistor in the socket? Do I trim the leads and then solder the transistor into the socket, or is it supposed to click into the socket and not be soldered?


Good question.

You do trim the leads and yes, just stick it right into the socket.

No, no soldering necessary, although you may choose to solder it in if you plan to use it extensively.

Quote
cap is an axial type, not radial...I'm not positive I've installed it properly as it isn't overly clear which is the positive and negative lead...is that type of capacitor even useable, or should I not have used it at all?


It should work. Is there any way that you can post a picture of it? It must have some type of marking on it.

Quote

Thanks again for the excellent walk-through of this project, I'm definitely learning a lot!


Thanks for trying it and thanks for asking questions.

We will get it working very soon.

Aron

tonepoet

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #16 on: October 26, 2003, 01:59:09 AM »
Hi Aron,
     You missed my post! No biggie, it's the 2nd from the bottom on the previous page. You know, I was looking at your pictorials and following them closely, and it's making things a whole lot neater and easier. I feel pretty confident now, it is beginning to look good! Please let me know about my questions! Thanks!!! :D

tonepoet

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #17 on: October 26, 2003, 02:03:30 AM »
I forgot to ask 2 questions. If 2 wires are crossed without being soldered (suppose that they are bare wires or leads from a resistor), will they have an effect on one another? Also, what do you use to hold the perfboard down while you solder it? I'm having a hard time with that one, I'm wedging it un the grips of a plier, but it's not working perfectly.

aron

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #18 on: October 26, 2003, 02:14:48 AM »
Quote from: tonepoet
I forgot to ask 2 questions. If 2 wires are crossed without being soldered (suppose that they are bare wires or leads from a resistor), will they have an effect on one another? Also, what do you use to hold the perfboard down while you solder it? I'm having a hard time with that one, I'm wedging it un the grips of a plier, but it's not working perfectly.


If they don't touch they will be ok.

I don't hold down my perfboard while soldering. I just put them on my pliers or on the paper. I guess I just got used to doing it that way.

tonepoet

Post your questions about the build here 10/5/03
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2003, 02:28:02 AM »
Here's what I asked on the page prior:

I got most of my parts at Radio Shack (up here in Alaska, I don't have a lot of choices). Is there a real difference between that and the parts at Small Bear? Also, I saw some metal film resistors at the Shack, will this make a difference with the effect? I know that a lot of DIY'ers often speak of these. Also, if I hold down the soldering iron too long, will I fry parts? I am extremely sloppy at soldering, I may go get myself another board and some more parts and start over, it looks like hell compared to yours. I'm not sure if it works completely or not, I still have to attach the pot and jacks and switch. I can never thank you enough for doing this for all of us, I often read your post before, but having no experience other than modding a TS-9 every now and then, this is a breath of fresh air. Do you think that maybe at one point we can learn about an easy A/B switch, possibly a looper with a tuner out or something?