Author Topic: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc.... (Read 240847 times)

CGDARK · « **Reply #100 on:** July 16, 2007, 07:37:44 AM »

It's not really "new", it's just another way to wire the 3PDT. This method involve FX input shunt to ground to keep the FX quiet when bypassed.

CG

coxter · « **Reply #101 on:** July 16, 2007, 01:26:13 PM »

Yeah, I know its not "new" hence the qoutations.

Sorry, for sounding pesky... But what good does that do?
The "old" one does disconnect the input and output completely, although not shunting inout to ground.
Wouldn't it be just as quiet?

Just inquisitive, got no bones to pick

CGDARK · « **Reply #102 on:** July 16, 2007, 01:49:53 PM »

Not exactly. Some circuits like high gain overdrives, distortions, fuzzes and modulation circuits like choruses, flangers, phasers and others may oscillate even when bypassed, because the fx itself is "floating" that's why it's better to shunt the input just to prevent that.

aron · « **Reply #103 on:** July 16, 2007, 05:03:56 PM »

It grounds the input when bypassed which is good. It's not really new and is described in the FAQ.

ThatHilleyBoy · « **Reply #104 on:** October 21, 2007, 02:59:35 PM »

The blue wire from the bottom left to bottom right lugs, do i just connect those two lugs to each other?
I was very confused at first about what "varies with LED" meant, then i realized it was referring to ther resistor and not the blue wire.

*first post EVER, by the way!

suprleed · « **Reply #105 on:** December 02, 2007, 05:47:11 PM »

What is the advantage of the grounded input wiring shown in the FAQ under bypass/wiring vs. the standard 3pdt wiring above. The FAQ mentions something about "grounding the circuit while in bypass mode." Can someone explain this in more detail and why it would be considered better than the standard wiring diagram above? Thanks.

aron · « **Reply #106 on:** December 03, 2007, 02:35:23 PM »

For hi-gain pedals, it grounds the input-effectively like putting a volume knob on zero at the input.

suprleed · « **Reply #107 on:** December 03, 2007, 05:35:45 PM »

Quote from: aron on December 03, 2007, 02:35:23 PM

For hi-gain pedals, it grounds the input-effectively like putting a volume knob on zero at the input.

I assume this would help eliminate/reduce any noise problems that often plague high-gain pedals? I'm going to try to tackle one of Davisson's high-gain circuits for my seconds project so it sounds like this would be advisable. Thanks again.

macaroni · « **Reply #108 on:** January 26, 2008, 04:03:34 AM »

hey aron, im still lost on the switch thing. can u guide me to where i should wire wat?

correct me if im wrong^

thanks man

clamhandsmcgee · « **Reply #109 on:** April 25, 2008, 03:39:57 PM »

I hooked up everything like it said, except i didn't have a stereo jack, so I used a mono jack. I don't have a stomp switch. I also hooked the negative battery snap to the ground of the mono jack (I don't think that's right). Thanks.

aron · « **Reply #110 on:** April 30, 2008, 05:22:54 AM »

Follow the picture above with the blue switch, just ignore the middle lugs. So far the switch is wired correctly. Just need to add the jacks and bypass wire on the switch.

dod6 · « **Reply #111 on:** May 19, 2008, 11:28:09 PM »

Aron,

If I'm using an aluminum enclosure, and am installing a dc jack, will my grounds interfere if the jack uses metal washers? What about putting some type of barrier (cloth, foam, etc.) under my circuit board to keep it from shorting? I'm extremely new to this, so any advice is helpful.

jonjon · « **Reply #112 on:** May 20, 2008, 04:47:43 AM »

Quote from: dod6 on May 19, 2008, 11:28:09 PM

Aron,

If I'm using an aluminum enclosure, and am installing a dc jack, will my grounds interfere if the jack uses metal washers? What about putting some type of barrier (cloth, foam, etc.) under my circuit board to keep it from shorting? I'm extremely new to this, so any advice is helpful.

i am no expert .but ... the metal washers did not affect mine . and i put some insulation tape on the face of my circuit that touches the enclosure

aron · « **Reply #113 on:** May 20, 2008, 04:11:05 PM »

It's negative ground so everything should be ok. I've used everything from cardboard (hehehe) with cable tie, to foam, to what R.G. said.... heavy duty velcro.

Good luck!

Aron

dod6 · « **Reply #114 on:** May 20, 2008, 08:39:00 PM »

I'm trying to use a RadioShack Size M dc jack w/ switch, but I can't figure out which lugs I need to connect my wiring too. Anyone else used this type that can help me out?

aron · « **Reply #115 on:** May 20, 2008, 08:48:50 PM »

I thought it had a diagram on the back of the package?

I've never used the Radio Shack one with the switch. Try your meter's continuity mode to buzz the lugs.

dod6 · « **Reply #116 on:** May 22, 2008, 10:17:03 PM »

Aron,

I've got my board wired up and I used a hybrid between your drawing and the one found at http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/ . I am using a dc jack and battery, so i moved the led to the position shown on the beavis audio site. When i check voltage, I draw a blank. Could you draw in a dc jack for me so that I can clarify exactly how i connect the 3pdt switch. By the way, thanks for getting that order out to me so fast the other day. Great site and project!

GabeI · « **Reply #117 on:** July 17, 2008, 07:41:25 PM »

hey this is my first project and its not working. i'm troubleshooting, but when its plugged in, the battery is on FIRE (well not really but its pretty hot). whats causing this?

GabeI · « **Reply #118 on:** July 17, 2008, 08:18:30 PM »

nvm it turns out i had a ground to both the input and the ouput jacks. when i removed the ground wire from the input, the LED started working and the battery did not heat up. but the pedal still doesnt work.

Question: in the picture of the circuit board and the 5k pot, it says back of the 5k pot. do you mean looking at it from the bottom (as in the knob turn thing is facing the floor) or from the other side as in the 3 loops are facing you and the knob is facing up/the ceiling.

sorry for the noob questions

chrisbtz · « **Reply #119 on:** July 18, 2008, 02:45:38 PM »

HI, Aron.

in this picture, Does the wire go from the positive terminal on the battery snap to the board and then the Switch, or directly from the battery snap to the switch? (the purple wire) Thanks

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Author Topic: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc.... (Read 240847 times)