Author Topic: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....  (Read 226698 times)

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #160 on: April 21, 2010, 01:21:57 AM »
Welcome to the forum. There is a Wiki link above that answers all of your questions. Basically you can use any taper pot, just that the taper might not be "optimized" but it will work. I like stranded wire most of the time since it doesn't break as easily as solid core.

Giordash

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #161 on: April 23, 2010, 11:51:22 AM »
Does anyone have a sound clip of this up somewhere?  I just finished the build and wanted to match it against others that have been built.

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #162 on: April 24, 2010, 05:13:12 PM »
Doug had some clips up at one point. It should make your guitar sound punchier and a little brighter. Turning up the drive causes overdrive at higher settings.

rschultz

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #163 on: January 23, 2011, 09:56:46 PM »
Hi,

   [I'm a newbie]
   How can I take this diagram and add a 2nd LED... one for ON, the other for BYPASS?

Thanks.
Ryan



Barcode80

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #164 on: January 23, 2011, 10:02:08 PM »
Take the +9v wire you are running to the switch, and swap it's connection spot with the connection spot of the 1K resistor on the switch that goes to the LED. THen wire the resistor that is on the other LED to the bottom lug, the one between the bypass jumper lugs. In the picture, that means "FX On" LED resistor goes to top row, center lug. +9v from the board goes to the middle row, center lug. The "Off" LED resistor goes to the bottom row, center lug.

tgras141

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #165 on: April 06, 2011, 09:04:01 PM »
Hey aron,
I realize that you may never get this seeing that I'm the first in like 3 months to comment, but would putting a spst switch interruptiing the negative of the battery to the board let the signal run through yet? or when it is off, would it cut everything out? (I have no led)
Thank you much!!
Tyler

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #166 on: April 07, 2011, 02:03:46 AM »
If it is in bypass mode, doing whaT you said would still allow signal to go through. You might get a pop when turning the power back on.

novakram

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #167 on: April 24, 2011, 10:18:49 AM »
I built this pedal about 10 months ago with a battery snap and only today have I finally got around to adding a DC jack. Thought I'd post my experience to help others! (and see if what I've done is safe!)

The DC jack I had/have has two prongs and a centre flat piece of metal (from bitsbox).
I had a quick look at the drawings in this thread and thought "that's easy". That was about the only time I thought for the next 10 minutes...here's what I did:

Soldered three pieces of wire onto the DC jack a black wire (to ground on the board), a red wire from one prong going to the red battery snap, and a red wire from the other prong going to the input on the board.

....

Yeah.

I tested it, battery wires started to catch fire. I switched it off!

What I've done now is removed the battery snap completely - I have the black still going to the circuit ground from the centre flat of the DC jack and a red from a prong to the board input. I just snipped the wires where the battery snap was and didn't replace either of them.

Edit - to clarify, there is nothing coming from the input jack prong that went to the battery ve-. (Where I've said board input above, I mean the power ve+ vero line.

So, I have a question: is what I've done OK?

AND, fellow newbies, BE CAREFUL!
« Last Edit: April 24, 2011, 10:24:19 AM by novakram »

JebemMajke

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #168 on: April 29, 2011, 05:37:18 PM »
What if i put a 10 k pot? And also i would like to add that Beavis Audio BMP tone control ( http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/BigMuffToneControl/ ).

gnort_2

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #169 on: July 09, 2013, 04:33:14 PM »
I have a 3pdt switch from the diystompbox store.  When wiring it in the beginner project I know I want the lugs horizontal so it will match the wiring examples.  The only problem is that there are two ways to wire up the switch with having the lugs horizontal.   Does it matter?

mistahead

  • Awesome!
  • ****
  • Posts: 616
  • Total likes: 3
  • I don't have a shame gland... fortunately.
Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #170 on: July 09, 2013, 08:03:14 PM »
Yes!

Orientate the switch so holes are "vertical":

---
---
---

Not horizontal:
|||
|||
|||

Play with an LED, your 4.7K and a 9V battery and that switch, when put vertically its actually just three switches from left to right that all click together.

mistahead

  • Awesome!
  • ****
  • Posts: 616
  • Total likes: 3
  • I don't have a shame gland... fortunately.
Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #171 on: July 09, 2013, 08:04:48 PM »
As it happens I was about to show you:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=102718.40

But scroll up - see the way the lugs are in the 3pdt image just a little here - thats what I meant by "verticle holes"

gnort_2

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #172 on: July 09, 2013, 08:53:05 PM »
Yes!

Orientate the switch so holes are "vertical":

---
---
---

Not horizontal:
|||
|||
|||

Play with an LED, your 4.7K and a 9V battery and that switch, when put vertically its actually just three switches from left to right that all click together.

There are two ways to do this though:

                        Side 1

Side 2.              ---             Side 4
                         ---
                         ---

                      Side 3



Or

                        Side 3


Side 4.               ---        Side 2
                          ---
                          ---
                      Side 1



Were --- are lugs

mistahead

  • Awesome!
  • ****
  • Posts: 616
  • Total likes: 3
  • I don't have a shame gland... fortunately.
Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #173 on: July 09, 2013, 09:02:57 PM »
The lugs have holes, if you orientate it correctly the holes are Up and Down...

gnort_2

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #174 on: July 09, 2013, 09:05:14 PM »
Got that, didn't know if there was specific sides to switch though, there are two ways to rotate the switch  so the holes are up and down, does it matter?

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #175 on: July 09, 2013, 09:35:29 PM »
nope

Aron

gnort_2

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #176 on: July 09, 2013, 10:04:51 PM »

Jdansti

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #177 on: July 10, 2013, 05:06:09 AM »
Here's a visual way to think of it. Each "column" of lugs when oriented the way that Aron explained is a SPDT switch. All three SPDT switched operate simultaneously.

R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

Howard

Re: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #178 on: June 13, 2014, 09:51:59 AM »
Hi. So what 4PDT footswitches do you prefere? Have got some from TAYDA that works well, but they are mechanically hard/noisy.

Jdansti

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #179 on: June 13, 2014, 06:16:53 PM »
I don't know.  Use the noisy ones from Tayda.  ;)

Maybe someone else knows of some softer/quieter latching switches.

If it's really a problem and you can't find quiet ones, you could use some fancy circuitry to latch a relay.
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...