Ever since I dug out my bookmarked schematic for Mark Hammer, I've had a craving to finally build this vintage "fuzz"...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99037.msg868429#msg868429
Unfortunately, for my taste, the stock version is a very average pedal that is somewhere between a distortion and fuzz and it pretty muddy with not much balls at all.
So, this build report will be re-titled "How I turned a mediocre distortion into a killer fuzz!!!"
1) Diodes: Firstly, I have to believe they're silicon. With any germanium I tried, the signal is way too low & flat. Also, do not dismiss this as one of those "any silicon will be good" circuits. I went thru a bunch of pairs, most sounding a little different, until I decided on one that beat the others. Fwd voltage ~ .7V
2) Transistors: I started with vintage button style with hfe ~300. This put the collector voltages at ~ 1.6V. This gives a distortion/overdrive at low attack setting and a sagging, slightly farty tone with attack at full. Lowering the resistors on the collectors to bring the voltages to ~ 2.5- 4V made it a bit hotter and smoothened it out. Not great, but better. You might think that using higher gains for this might get rid of some muddy-ness and make it spark, but that'll just put a lower voltage on the collectors and you'll just have to lower the collector resistors even more to hit the 2.5 - 4V sweet spot. Ie, a 2N5088 put Q2C ~ 1.2 - 1.3V.
Since this was designed with 100K collector resistors and the sweet spot was 2.5 - 4V, I think it makes sense that the original transistors probably had lower hfe's. I put 2 vintage button style 2N2222's in there with hfe's ~ 80-90, both collector voltages hit 3.5 - 4V and there was a quick improvement with no adjusting of resistors....back to this later.
3) A .0015uF cap across Q2 BC? Is it really necessary to use a cap that large to tame it that much? No. Without it, there's a load of sizzle, but that large size is not needed. So, I started low with a 50pf and worked my way up until all sizzle was gone. Final result, 220pf and the pedal is now even hotter, of course.
4) Mud: This thing really is too muddy to really fuzz or scream, so I lowered the three .05's to .022. Big, big difference and now this thing is finally getting close to being boxable
5) Input fuzz killer: Is it really necessary to have a 470K up front to tame it even further. If you get rid of it, you'll wind up with too much harshness when the attack is full on, so I inserted a 500K pot and worked my way up from 0K until the harshness ended. End result is a 50K and the pedal is again, much hotter and I was almost ready to box, when....
6) Germanium is king again: Taking a hint from the Fuzzrite Q2 and knowing this type of topology can work with germanium with little work, I subbed a ge into Q2...and it was night & day right off! (the same way a germanium Fuzzrite absolutely destroys a silicon one). Finally, a real fuzz with some nice saturation and sustain
Next: tweak the collector resistor for best sound. This actually sounds excellent from 1V - 4V (~60K - 8.2K) on Q2C, so I went with an 8.2K with 50K pot. The biggest difference is that there's more high end at 1V.
7) back to #5. There is no longer a need for the 50K since germanium is not as harsh. Now I can turn it up to full with nothing slowing me down at the input
At this point, it's a killer fuzz, with nice saturation, excellent sustain....but it can always be made better.
8): The 2.2M on Q2. A germanium probably won't work the best with the same BC resistor as a silicon. Again, look at the 1M on the Fuzzrite's Q2. Sub a 1M pot there, start at 0K and turn till you get the hottest, smoothest, richest tone. For me that was ~ 500 - 600K
I think that should do...from crap to fuzz in 8 easy steps.
Final schematic with details & voltages:
