String Ringer build.

[digi2t]

Edit - by COM do you mean the middle common pole of the switch? then the top one goes back to the board, bottom one goes to ground?

Lace... you don`t give yourself enough credit... that`s exactly what I mean  . You`ve got the idea. That way, when you engage the effect, you close the circuit between the input and the board. When you bypass, you switch the board`s input to ground. Theoretically, that should kill any noise bleed (nose bleed?  ).

[pinkjimiphoton]

gorgeous, dino...and man!! what a sound!

well done!!

[LaceSensor]

Does anyone know what just the octave fuzz portion of the circuit is, and if its possible to just make that in a pedal?
I think it sounds awesome.

[digi2t]

Looks to me like they're using half of the transformer / diode ring assembly of the ringmod board. Looks like a Tycobrahe Octavia type thingy to me. I have a GGG Tyco Octavia, and the octave effect is almost identical.

BTW, I tried the mod of disconnecting the board input when bypassing with a 3PDT, and it works perfect. You don't even need to ground the input on the board side when bypassed, just disconnecting works fine. No more faint octave buzz in the background. But.... I have noticed the LFO ticking in the background now....

So... it's time for the BIG GUN!!! A 4PDT switch for the bypass. As I mentioned, the third set of poles will be for the board input to kill the octave bleed, and the fourth set will be to kill the LFO bleed. Just so happens that I had one on hand, so I swapped it in;



The wiring for killing the LFO is super simple. We just need to make the connection between the "SW1 grey" and "SW1 brown" wires when we bypass the effect. Just jumper these two wires from the LFO switch, and bring them to the fourth pole section of the 4PDT switch. Now, connect the two wires to the side of 4PDT will close the circuit on these two wires when you bypass, no matter what position the LFO is in. There you go, LFO noise killed.

That's it. My unit is DEAD quiet now in bypass. No ticks, no fuzz... nothing. I know the 4PDT setup isn't elegant, and fairly pricey at 11$ (@ Effects Connection), but it gets the job done. Besides, for all this puppy can give (not to mention the price of the real thing), I consider it a small investment. Also, if this is a direct clone of the real one, the switch makes the clone even better  .

I've send a PM out, asking if it would be possible to update the build pdf. I would like to either update the version to 1.3, or at least add an addendum to address these issues. Hopefully, the author will be cool with it.

I'm stickin' a fork in this one  .

*EDIT* - I put it back on the scope just to finalize everything. Fine-tuned the waveshapes, and buttoned everything up. Here's another video of the finish (almost...still no knobs ) product. Once again, just scratching the surface.

One last thing on tuning. In the build pdf, you're given two options on tuning the VCO waveshape. First method is by ear, using the sine wave, the other is with a scope using the square wave. I myself used a PC scope. The thing is this; if you scope the sine wave, adjust it to be as uniform as possible, then look at the square wave, you'll notice that the square wave isn't as square as it could be. On the flip side, if you readjust, and make a nice square wave, it throws out the sine wave. Even the triangle wave gets thrown out of shape.

Audibly, the unit sounds much nicer when the sine and triangle waves are nice and smooth. I don't notice much difference with the square wave. So, if you're scoping it, choose sine wave, and get that one nice. Switch and check it with the triangle wave as well, you may have to do some difference splitting between the two to get them as nice as possible. Don't worry about the square wave. You'll see, in sine mode, the ringmod will put out some amazingly clear bell clang tones. Much cleaner than if you insist on getting the square wave, well... too square. It's like standing next to Big Ben. With the sine and triangle waves nice and smooth, the ringmod is just KILLER, in any mode.

[joegagan]

great thread, great build, and 11 dollars for a 4pdt switch is no big deal.

10 yrs ago, we had WAY fewer options for parts, all you youngins , just be happy this hobby affords so many parts options.

[digi2t]

I've talked with Markus, and he's cool with updating the v1.2 build pdf. Seems like a real rightous dude  .

I'm going to update the wiring to use the different switches, and I'm going to provide an additional PCB transfer for the transformer board. The modified board will allow for use of the T.I. UC3611, Schottky Diode Array chip.

Once Markus approves the document, I'll post the new version in Gallery.

I've decided to give my unit an extra bell and whistle. I'm going to install a BNC connector, so I can plug in one of these Hosa gooseneck LED lights. Like this one;



And I'm going to place a socketed LDR right between two footswitches, really close to the edge. I can then use the LDR to control the VCO with my foot, and the gooseneck lamp will be adjustable over top of the LDR. With the LDR close to the edge, and between two switches, I can sneak my foot in there, and cover up the LDR to change the resistance. Then I can throw the VCO all over the place . The LED gooseneck will be there to compensate for ambient light conditions i.e. dark stage. I'll add a toggle switch on the panel to switch between the LDR input, or the 1/4" jack input.

I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

[LaceSensor]

Looks to me like they're using half of the transformer / diode ring assembly of the ringmod board. Looks like a Tycobrahe Octavia type thingy to me. I have a GGG Tyco Octavia, and the octave effect is almost identical.

BTW, I tried the mod of disconnecting the board input when bypassing with a 3PDT, and it works perfect. You don't even need to ground the input on the board side when bypassed, just disconnecting works fine. No more faint octave buzz in the background. But.... I have noticed the LFO ticking in the background now....

So... it's time for the BIG GUN!!! A 4PDT switch for the bypass. As I mentioned, the third set of poles will be for the board input to kill the octave bleed, and the fourth set will be to kill the LFO bleed. Just so happens that I had one on hand, so I swapped it in;



The wiring for killing the LFO is super simple. We just need to make the connection between the "SW1 grey" and "SW1 brown" wires when we bypass the effect. Just jumper these two wires from the LFO switch, and bring them to the fourth pole section of the 4PDT switch. Now, connect the two wires to the side of 4PDT will close the circuit on these two wires when you bypass, no matter what position the LFO is in. There you go, LFO noise killed.

That's it. My unit is DEAD quiet now in bypass. No ticks, no fuzz... nothing. I know the 4PDT setup isn't elegant, and fairly pricey at 11$ (@ Effects Connection), but it gets the job done. Besides, for all this puppy can give (not to mention the price of the real thing), I consider it a small investment. Also, if this is a direct clone of the real one, the switch makes the clone even better  .

I've send a PM out, asking if it would be possible to update the build pdf. I would like to either update the version to 1.3, or at least add an addendum to address these issues. Hopefully, the author will be cool with it.

I'm stickin' a fork in this one  .

*EDIT* - I put it back on the scope just to finalize everything. Fine-tuned the waveshapes, and buttoned everything up. Here's another video of the finish (almost...still no knobs ) product. Once again, just scratching the surface.

One last thing on tuning. In the build pdf, you're given two options on tuning the VCO waveshape. First method is by ear, using the sine wave, the other is with a scope using the square wave. I myself used a PC scope. The thing is this; if you scope the sine wave, adjust it to be as uniform as possible, then look at the square wave, you'll notice that the square wave isn't as square as it could be. On the flip side, if you readjust, and make a nice square wave, it throws out the sine wave. Even the triangle wave gets thrown out of shape.

Audibly, the unit sounds much nicer when the sine and triangle waves are nice and smooth. I don't notice much difference with the square wave. So, if you're scoping it, choose sine wave, and get that one nice. Switch and check it with the triangle wave as well, you may have to do some difference splitting between the two to get them as nice as possible. Don't worry about the square wave. You'll see, in sine mode, the ringmod will put out some amazingly clear bell clang tones. Much cleaner than if you insist on getting the square wave, well... too square. It's like standing next to Big Ben. With the sine and triangle waves nice and smooth, the ringmod is just KILLER, in any mode.

thanks for this
Ima try to see if I can fit a 3pdt in mine somehow might have to grind some of the case to make it fit.
I havent noticed LFO noise  on mine but ill scrutinise it

hopefully i get time tommorow.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

Hey Dino...

I believe you may have seen these used on Rob's (deadastronaut) Lightwah builds 

[digi2t]

I've seen this setup on another effect somewhere, but I can't remember which one. Anyway, I've been fooling around with an LDR on the VCO CV, and you can get some really bizarre stuff going on by manipulating the LDR. This is going to be a fun mod.

Hey Dino...

I believe you may have seen these used on Rob's (deadastronaut) Lightwah builds  

No... I`m pretty sure there is something commercial out there using this idea. I just can`t for the life of me put my finger on it. I keep thinking Z-Vex, but I`m not sure. I`ll have to do some research, so I can get some sleep  

*EDIT* - I FOUND IT!!!! Not a guitar effect, but that`s where I saw the concept for the first time. Bleeplabs Thingamagoop.
PHEW!! That was REALLY starting to bug me 

[LaceSensor]

So I built another one of these
I also revisited my first build and did the "true bypass" mod. Had to hack away at the case and the PCB a bit to make it fit but I got there in the end.

Liking the sound of my new one better. Think I got lucky with my by ear tuning. Love this thing, so random and crazy.

Pics!

So the second one:







and the brothers together:



old one with the bypass mod

[digi2t]

Wow, REALLY NICE Lace. I absolutely love your nice neat wiring.

I've had the final Okee Dokee from Markus on a new v1.3 build document. I've uploaded it to the Gallery. I have both documents there, just in case some purist insists on building one with the original idiosyncracies.

Both files are under "Dino's stuff / Information files". Direct download:

v1.2 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47333

v1.3 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47423

Ring Stinger manual - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47408

If anyone has more ideas, bring them on. You never know, maybe a v1.4 one day? 

Enjoy,
Dino

[LaceSensor]

Cool

I have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

I like the additons to the build doc. Im happy with mine as it is now, but if I were to make another I think I would plan for the 4PDT and other mods.

Pats on the back all round for us managing to even get this beast of a project working - although I must admit both mine fired up first time. How is it that I cant get a tonebender to work, but I can build this haha

[digi2t]

I have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have 
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

That would be great. I can convert them to pdf then. I've PM'd you my email address, please send them there.

I like the additons to the build doc. Im happy with mine as it is now, but if I were to make another I think I would plan for the 4PDT and other mods.

Maybe a component / board mod will allow the use of the usual 3DPDT switches. Something to look into one day, I think.

Pats on the back all round for us managing to even get this beast of a project working - although I must admit both mine fired up first time. How is it that I cant get a tonebender to work, but I can build this haha

Two words.... Murphy's Law  Sometimes it's just the simplicity that stupifies us.

[LaceSensor]

also FWIW I found it MUCH easier to build (and faster) the second time round.

Here are my two wiring pics haha crazy

Old



New

[LaceSensor]

I have a copy of the manual each page as a jpeg if you want them, not that its a competition but its nicer quality than the one you have 
I can try to make it a PDF perhaps?

That would be great. I can convert them to pdf then. I've PM'd you my email address, please send them there.

Done. Mine is a newer version from 2001 so worth archiving both.

[digi2t]

SWEETNESS!!!! I finally found the right knobs to finish this sucker 





How's THAT for a nice "'62 Chevy Bel-Air" look?

They just don't make NOTHING like they used to.... maaaaaaannnnnnn 

[njkmonty]

can anyone advise if the BC549c  is specific requirement?

  or can any bc549 do?

  i have 3 x bc549c ,

heaps of bc549b,

and a couple that say bc549?

[glops]

Dude! Why did you have to bump this thread?!?!? I gotta build this thing now, ugh! 

[njkmonty]

Yeah Ive got this and several others too! ... SOORRY

[glops]

YES!