Hi
 I got an m-wave mini universe that has no toggle switch with 6 pins. Mine only has 4
Pins 1 and 2 are ground..

Has anyone encountered this and can someone advise based  on the 6 pin solution to remove the pop sound a method to solve the problem?





This is the top of the board

I think the footswitch in yours is the updated version using as momentary switch, which I believe was supposed to fix the former pop problem of the DPDT switch,
Could be wrong, but on a cursory quick look into the pedal, seems to be the case.

Do you have any switch Pop issues with the pedal?

Hi Yes
 It has a big pop sound.

I also have the GHOSTFIRE which is exact same board - but no pop.

I got the ghostfire thinkints its a different product but it only
comes with better knobs..

So I guess I am stuck until someone has the same problem and solve it I guess

What do you think.?

Quote from: eagleeyesg58 on December 19, 2024, 01:51:12 AMSo I guess I am stuck

Trace the bypass circuit so we can see where the issue is.
Surely you're not expecting someone else to do it based on images where the traces are smaller than the pixels?

Just wondering if someone already had this issue on this board.
So I just do the fix..

Due to the problem that this seems to be a digital toggle as it does not physically latch..
I am assuming this is managed by the microprocessor and I am not sure how I would do the fix
based on the physical toggle switch version.

So just asking if someone came across this new board.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/popping-issue-of-m-wave-mini-universe.21076/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKtdqcZ-ewI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XysqZocdNGQ

Quote from: eagleeyesg58 on December 19, 2024, 06:04:08 AMI am assuming this is managed by the microprocessor

It's just speculation until you do the tracing or at least provide useful pictures.

Quote from: antonis on December 19, 2024, 07:06:44 AM[...]

Did you look at those or only shared the first Google results you came across? All of them pertain to the old version with a 3PDT, not this one.

Quote from: FiveseveN on December 19, 2024, 07:21:52 AMDid you look at those or only shared the first Google results you came across? All of them pertain to the old version with a 3PDT, not this one.

Pop is pop is pop..!!

Anyway, first reasonable attempt should be IN & OUT grouding..

Hi can you explain  do you mean by in/out grounding??

  can you draw some wiring so that I can understand?

There is no way I can do anything with this "soft digital switch."
so that means logically I need to wire a hardware bypass switch somehow?


Thanks

Quote from: eagleeyesg58 on December 21, 2024, 07:06:38 AMHi can you explain  do you mean by in/out grounding??

The ground wires to the input and output jacks can be done in several different ways. The sleeve contact on the jacks may be tied to the enclosure, to pads on the PCB, to wires to the PCB, many ways. The details of where the sleeve contacts from the jacks go matters. In a circuit with the jacks put on the PCB, you're stuck with whatever the PCB layout guy put in there unless you want to go cutting and splicing traces.

QuoteThere is no way I can do anything with this "soft digital switch."
so that means logically I need to wire a hardware bypass switch somehow?

Without major cutting and splicing on the PCB, no, there is not much you can do with the digital switch.
However, you may have a different and easier to solve problem. I think it's unlikely that all examples of this pedal pop; otherwise, their reputation would be junk. More likely, there is a defect on the board you have that is probably not the soft digital switch. The digital switch only tells the uC what to do. The uC then outputs signals to do the actual switching. The switching may be done by a relay, or by semiconductor signal switches. Both relays and SS switches can be pop-free, but also may generate pops if they are not - well, biased, properly. It is likely that some of the special circuitry involved with whatever the PCB uses to do signal switching is not working correctly.

The fix will be much simpler in terms of unsoldering and soldering in another few parts. Unfortunately, you will need the schematics to tell the most likely things to need fixed.

In general, all pops come from only a few original sources. Some of these are injected transient spikes from things like relay coil switching, power supply spikes, or ground shift spikes. The other, and more common source is a DC offset that is suddenly shifted when the signal switching is activated. You might be able to run this down by using a meter to measure the DC voltage on the input signal and/or output signal to/from the PCB.

Hi
Yeah that was what I was afraid of.. I bought the Ghost Fire which is the exact same board as the m-wave and no pop.
So something was changed.. its way to difficult to go and figure it out
here is the PCB just for show.

It wouldn't be difficult at all if you'd post pictures big enough to see what's going on.

If that's the same board, there is an empty spot for a relay. The design was changed and the relay left off. One possible way to do this is to do the "bypass" in the DSP chip (quad flat pack above the left jack) by having the DSP simply put out exactly what it got in. There are other ways, but If they re-laid the board to add semiconductor bypass, why not remove the relay spot?

Your options are limited. If it's still under warranty, get it replaced. As a DIY hacker, you're unlikely to be able to remove and replace the surface mount stuff, so all you could likely do is to remove/replace electro caps, pots, jacks, etc. The manufacturer would probably not repair it at all if they were given the task. It would be cheaper for them to replace the whole board because skilled tech time is probably $50-$80 per hour.
Even if it's not under warranty, you might get a deal for a cheap(er) repair by getting the manufacturer to do it. If not, You could decide to replace all the through hole parts you can do, and possibly reflow the surface mount resistor/capacitor pads with a needle-point iron, on the chance that the board has cracked a surface-mount solder pad.

Not having a schematic and parts placement diagram severely limits what is practical.

Hi , Thanks for confirming.. I was afraid of this.. But anyway I got this for USD$15 discounted from aliexpress.

So I wont' invest anymore time in it..
Thank you very much

The brute force way would be to get a Y pedal to bypass it.

Having said this the GHOSTFIRE board is an exact duplicate but NO POP..
So I suspect its in the firmware.. hopefully one day a CH341A is able to copy the
firmware and reprogram it onto the M-wave.. Thats another day I guess.

Thanks so much for your confirmation.

The Ghost Fire definitely sounds like the better pedal for same spec only without Switch Pop,
However it is usually priced double what you get the bargain priced M Wave mini universe for
So its a trade off . Lower priced bargain for putting up with the Sw Pop.
Not a bad deal for bedroom pickers