Anyone have one, or a link to one?

Thanks

tg

If your desire is to clone one, forget it.  Roland/Boss use a proprietary OTA chip, made for them by Rohm, and many other components are based around the parameters of that chip.  If your intent is simply to fix one, that's another matter entirely.

Quote from: Mark HammerIf your desire is to clone one, forget it.  Roland/Boss use a proprietary OTA chip, made for them by Rohm, and many other components are based around the parameters of that chip.  If your intent is simply to fix one, that's another matter entirely.

no, I'm trying to fix mine!! I tried swapping out the  1uf elects with film caps, and all of a sudden BAM! barely any sound coming out whether in bypass OR on.

Any idea where to start? I've checked all wires/soldering/and replaced the caps once again. Still no fix

tks!

If all you did was replace electro's with mf's, your problem is directly related. Even though you checked the wires and soldering, here's what I'd check:

1. Wiring: It's easy to pull a wire when you pull out the board to work on it. For example, on an Ibanez board, I desolder with the board still mounted in the pedal. More support that way. To solder, I often use the little robot-looking hobby jig with the alligator clamps on it to hold the board slightly above the enclosure. No need to pull the board all the way out most of the time. Some people like to pull it all the way out from the box (wires still attached) and lay it on the work bench. If the board flexes, you can break several solder joints. On other pedals, you may have to remove the circuit entirely from the enclosure to work on it properly. More work, but it takes less time than debugging a damaged one does.

2. Cold solder joints: Boss boards are like Ibanez boards: being tightly fit, many components have a lead that shares the same solder pad with another component lead. Desoldering one lead often can desolder the other component's lead. After soldering the replacement part, you often have to touch up the solder joint of the neighboring part. Do your electro's leads share a solder pad with another components leads?

3. Heat damage: on these kind of boards, a desoldering pump or solder-sucker is the best way to go. Speed is your friend when it comes to soldering/desoldering. Sometimes braid can take too long, increasing the chance of heat damage. Especially to the neighboring component's lead, because you're not paying attention to the neighboring part . Are you just heating and pulling the old components? Forget it! On tight little boards like that, it's a recipe for disaster.

4. Flux: Sometimes soldering can leave flux or residue on the joint. Clean it off with alcohol on a Q-tip. Once again, remember component's sharing a common solder pad. Give the whole board a cleaning while you're at it.

5. Shorts: Pedals like Boss and Ibanez use plastic sheets between the board and the bottom plate to prevent the pcb from shorting out on the enclosure. Many people leave it out when they reassemble. Tight fit boards also have resistors, diodes, and caps standing on end. Some times you have to move and bend components to the side to fit your new parts. In some cases, the leads can short on each other. Don't rely on the fact that they appear to be coated for protection. You can plug in you guitar and check while you move the adjacent components a little with a non-conductive probe (plastic or wood, like a chopstick).

Hope that helps some. Also, whenever you work on a factory pedal, take the time to inspect it good, and check the jack and pot nuts for tightness. Saves headaches later.

thanks!!