Hey guys,
 Hoping someone might be able to shed some light on this.  I built a katana clone on vero(I know, I know  ) and I jimmied it up for testing.

It seems to my ears the clean boost is darker than the bypassed signal...and the grit setting is significantly brighter.  Not sure if this is how it's supposed to be as I never tried a real one in person.  

That being said, I took some voltage readings of the ic(max 1044)and the 2 jfets, can anyone see anything screwy?  Also, I'm using 1N5818s rather than 1N5817s....just thought I'd mention it.

IC pinouts are
8.6
4.3
0
0
0
4
3.6
8.6

JFETs are both D8.4--S1.2--G0

Here is the vero I used and a schematic that I found on the web; not sure if it's 100% the same.

EDIT: It looks like the values for the dirty boost is different on the vero than the schematic, not sure which is correct.  However, I'm seeing the darkness on the clean boost, so I figure it's unrelated...?

See the lower red line on the vero layout labelled "18V"? That's the voltage you should be measuring there. Something is wrong with your charge pump IC or the components connected around it.

Thanks anchovie...I forgot to put that in there, when I checked that rail I was getting about 17v.  I think that's ok as the battery was 8.5v?

I need to test the board again with more volume, couldn't crank it last night.  When I was testing it last night, the tone change was like when you switch between the bridge and the neck pickup.  That much of a tone change.

Initial feeling is the pedal adds some compression, or something to the tone to make it sound, "better".

I dont remember that cap being on the end there right before the volume pot. Maybe try taking that cap out and see what happens.

Thanks Isaac.  I also noticed that the schem doesn't have a 100u cap going from the 9v rail to the ground.  Then again, I'm quite sure where the the vero layout came from...

I also noticed that I get a fairly large, "pop" when engaging the switch(the one with the 10u and 150nf caps- I have it on a push/pull pot). Would putting a resistor inline stop that from happening without modifying the tone? 

Looking at it, i think you actually make the 150nf switch cap switch off of the 680ohm resistor hooked to the second 5458, just like the 10uF instead of switching it off the main signal path to the volume pot. I seem to remember popping when you would pull that switch in and out, not sure if there was ever a fix for it.

Is that schematic correct?

Why are they using a jfet with the input resistance around 500k?  A BJT could work there better

What is you drain resistance set at the 2nd jfet?  that is part of the lowpass formed with the fixed .001uf and the switchable .015uf

The 150n should be 15n looking at the updated schematic.  I expect that would make a pretty big difference to the brightness of the effect.  I really need to re-do that layout anyway, it's pig ugly.

Quote from: IsaacMoth on February 25, 2014, 06:31:13 PM
Looking at it, i think you actually make the 150nf switch cap switch off of the 680ohm resistor hooked to the second 5458, just like the 10uF instead of switching it off the main signal path to the volume pot. I seem to remember popping when you would pull that switch in and out, not sure if there was ever a fix for it.

Funny you say that, the original vero build DID have the switch caps going to the other 5458(the one on the right), but it got corrected...maybe it's not wrong?  I dunno.  Luckily,the maker of the layout, IvIark just joined this thread, so maybe he can chime in.   

Quote from: Gus on February 25, 2014, 06:41:03 PM
Is that schematic correct?

Why are they using a jfet with the input resistance around 500k?  A BJT could work there better

What is you drain resistance set at the 2nd jfet?  that is part of the lowpass formed with the fixed .001uf and the switchable .015uf

I don't know if that schem is correct, it was the only one I could find.    It does seem like some components are off/missing.

Both 5458s are showing D8.4--S1.2--G0.

Quote from: IvIark on February 25, 2014, 07:02:03 PM
The 150n should be 15n looking at the updated schematic.  I expect that would make a pretty big difference to the brightness of the effect.  I really need to re-do that layout anyway, it's pig ugly.

Hmm, I did see someone mention that the 150n was supposed to be 15n, I'll have to give it a shot.  However, I notice that when I have the boost engaged, it's pretty bright, I don't know if I'd want it brighter; it's the regular side that seems a bit dark...and that cap is only used when in boost mode, correct?

Thanks for all the help guys!

So I think I made some progress.    Seems that changing that 150nf to a 15nf cap on the switch did it.  Now it sounds...killer...on both modes.  

so now I'm checking the popping issue.  I noticed that if I put in a resistor inline before the 10uf switch cap(positive side) it stops the popping issue.  I tried a bunch of different values, 75k seems to be a pretty decent compromise.  The pop does seem to get smaller as the resistor size gets larger.

I do hear a change in tone, but I'm not sure if it's just a volume drop or if the tone is actually changing.  Does anyone know what is actually happening when I put that resistor inline?  If it's a volume drop, no biggie...

Thanks!!