Mutron Flanger Clone

Kaifeck · May 10, 2017, 01:43:50 PM

Thanks man, you're awesome

Kevin Mitchell · January 30, 2019, 10:53:53 AM

What a remarkable project. The collaborate efforts from the forum to put this one together says allot about the community. It sure is inspiring.

With a "damaged" Morley volume pedal heading my way and trying to fit in one more stompbox build before I have to buckle down for a move... I'd like to chime in to bring this thread back. I shall return soon with my pedal flanger

Thanks, guys!
-KM

Kevin Mitchell · January 31, 2019, 03:01:40 PM

Here's a spreadsheet for sourcing the parts needed. Everything is split between SB and Tayda.
Looks like you can find everything you need through these vendors!

MU-TRON FLANGER BOM Part Sources

Govmnt_Lacky · February 01, 2019, 11:01:59 AM

Let me know if you need any parts for this. I still have some etched PCBs, Morley wah shells, etc. laying around that I do not plan to build.

digi2t · February 01, 2019, 11:22:35 AM

I have the boards. I have the parts. I have the pedal.

It's been on my "to do" list forevvvvvveeeeeeerrrrrrrr.

I need to get my ass on this.

Kevin Mitchell · February 01, 2019, 11:30:19 AM

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 01, 2019, 11:01:59 AM
Let me know if you need any parts for this. I still have some etched PCBs, Morley wah shells, etc. laying around that I do not plan to build.

Ha! I remembered your offer after I put out a bid on the Morley pedal. I am interested but fear I'd hold onto them and try to pawn them off as they sit around! It's a viscous cycle - being overstocked. Shoot me a PM to work out a deal on one of those shells. I would like to have one in case I get an itch to build another later down the road - we all know it'll happen

.

I hope anyone interested takes your offer on the other supplies. I'd feel less fulfilled if I didn't etch my own boards

I've updated my previous post after searching through the vendors a bit more. You can find everything you need between the two minus the Morley shell and power supply.

I'm considering implanting a chargepump circuit so I could use my 9v pedal supply. Does anyone know the current draw for the circuit?

Kevin Mitchell · February 01, 2019, 01:24:37 PM

Quote from: digi2t on February 01, 2019, 11:22:35 AM
I have the boards. I have the parts. I have the pedal.

It's been on my "to do" list forevvvvvveeeeeeerrrrrrrr.

I need to get my ass on this.

You should do a comparison of the two if you still have the old unit! Also if you could answer my questions at the bottom of my previous post I'd greatly appreciate it

digi2t · February 01, 2019, 06:36:02 PM

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on February 01, 2019, 01:24:37 PM
Quote from: digi2t on February 01, 2019, 11:22:35 AM
I have the boards. I have the parts. I have the pedal.

It's been on my "to do" list forevvvvvveeeeeeerrrrrrrr.

I need to get my ass on this.

You should do a comparison of the two if you still have the old unit! Also if you could answer my questions at the bottom of my previous post I'd greatly appreciate it

I remember trying the MN3007 as a retrofit for the SAD1024 in the original unit, and it worked perfectly. It required some slight tweaking of the trimmers, but that was it. There was no audible difference between the two. Larry did a video of the clone, and I remember there being virtually no difference between his and the original. Seeing at how the clone project turned out, there was no reason for me to keep the original, so I sold it. Besides, the thing is YUGE, so having downsized it to a Morley sized enclosure was another win.

I'm no expert, but "I think" the current draw might be a bit too heavy for a MAX1044 or LT1054. Also, bringing the +/-15v down to +/-9v would cut into the headroom. Again, not sure how much it would affect the overall performance of the circuit.

Kevin Mitchell · February 10, 2019, 10:11:51 AM

There isn't much on the MSD6102 so here's some of my findings for anyone using matched diodes in it's place.

Match forward voltage - use diode function on multimeter. Like matching VBE for transistors they are temperature/environment sensitive. Don't handle with your hands and test in a draft free space. Try to work quick, jot down the measurement averages per each diode. Use best 2 candidates.

The MSD6102 pinout is 1-anode, 2-anode, 3-common cathode

The PCB shows extra pads for the diodes but isn't ideal in placement. The pad from pin 1 should actually be from pin 2. That way you can lay both diodes parallel and flat, cathodes at pin 3. I'd call this a plan flaw - no big deal. Just a note.

Kevin Mitchell · February 10, 2019, 10:59:18 AM

Might be flanging by the end of the day

Kevin Mitchell · February 15, 2019, 08:34:09 AM

We've got some flange but I'm trying to debug a few things - the clock and pedal CV.

Calibration step 1 - set clock to 50kHz min, ~ 700kHz - 800kHz max.
Adjusting TR5 didn't seem to do anything. Was able to get the correct range adding a 47pF capacitor and adjusting TR6 alone. This was concerning but the sweep seemed right. Though I can't tell if the start and stop controls are behaving correctly. Only getting the effect when they are at about 10% (almost fully CCW)

Calibrating the pedal
Pedal CV seems to be stuck at about 12 volts. So I'll have to take that apart and look for shorts (for the 3rd time

)

I quickly ran through the BBD calibration to see how other things were. So that's not perfect at the moment but it's doing what it should. Fingers crossed for it to be sorted out over the weekend. Will share my findings.

Kevin Mitchell · February 17, 2019, 04:05:13 PM

Found the short for pedal CV. So I've got a pedal flanger now

But sadly I'm still experiencing the first issue from my previous post. TR5 isn't doing anything for the frequency and the start and stop don't seem to do anything for the pedal sweep and only get LFO sweeps when dialed way down. I'm not sure if it's suppose to work like this but my gut tells me to keep looking for errors.

Kevin Mitchell · February 17, 2019, 08:29:19 PM

In the meantime... I couldn't help myself but to have some fun with it as is.

digi2t · February 18, 2019, 07:03:28 AM

The Start/Stop controls are inversely interactive. That's to say, having both at the same position, will really curtail the flanging effect. The further apart you set them, the deeper the flanging effect. Skip to 1:12 for the start stop explanation. Not very technical, but I had some head scratching with these controls as well at first;

Kevin Mitchell · February 18, 2019, 08:28:16 AM

Seen your video last night when I was looking up samples of the original

I still believe the clock is not right. It only works when start is at a very low setting - but above 0.. Stop has to be at about 10% to get the effect as well. Those two controls positioned anywhere else kills the effect. It's strange because the sweep seems right but I know having no results adjusting TR5 (calibration step one) is not a good sign.

Just another thing to pick at during the evening. Will be back with an update soon.

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Mutron Flanger Clone