Revealing Satan's Anus, the dirtiest fuzz ever made... (fuzz face clone mod)

[EBK]

I am getting 9.18v on my meter. coming from the battery.

1.98 after the 33k resistor. All readings are after 33k resistor to the location noted..

0 on the collector of trans 1

0.60 on the base of transistor 1

1.18 on the emitter of tran 1

1.55 on the collector of trans 2

0 on the base of trans 2

0.60 on the emitter of trans 2

is this any help? I dunno what it all means...

Well, "after the 33k resistor" is a node that, according to your drawing, should be connected directly to the collector of your first transistor and the base of your second transistor.  The voltages should be the same if these points are directly connected. Your meter is perhaps suggesting a broken connection here.
I think I just got confused by your technique there....

Keep the negative lead of your meter on the circuit ground and just move the positive lead.

[jdom1984]

ya haahah

[jdom1984]

I am getting 9.18v on my meter. coming from the battery.

1.98 after the 33k resistor. All readings are after 33k resistor to the location noted..

0 on the collector of trans 1

0.60 on the base of transistor 1

1.18 on the emitter of tran 1

1.55 on the collector of trans 2

0 on the base of trans 2

0.60 on the emitter of trans 2

is this any help? I dunno what it all means...

Well, "after the 33k resistor" is a node that, according to your drawing, should be connected directly to the collector of your first transistor and the base of your second transistor.  The voltages should be the same if these points are directly connected. Your meter is perhaps suggesting a broken connection here.
I think I just got confused by your technique there....

Keep the negative lead of your meter on the circuit ground and just move the positive lead.

oh

tomorrow sorry dude I am knackered... Tired.. I mean...

[bluebunny]

what? at board? what you mean? the main input. but I know thats 9v right?

Looks like you're making a start with Eric's help, but also take a look at the sticky "Debugging" thread at the top of this sub-forum.  It guides you through exactly the steps necessary to help you (and us) debug your circuit.  It really works.  Have a read and try it out.

[jdom1984]

thanks guys I really appreciate it.

I guess I am just learning how to be a electrician. I should test every compnnent before I use it right? Then I am not in this situation randomly trying to replace components  ha. Tried to test a trans and thought it was faulty so replaced it but obviously that wasnt the issue.

I will look into this further today and get some readings to try and figure out what i have done wrong. I dont want it to take be 10 hours to build one of these! has to be faster! haha...

[jdom1984]

This is crazy I rebuild thus and still doesn't work. I pretty much replaced every component... How do I know which one is faulty I out 1000 of hours I to this and it just never works. Over and over again it just @#$%s me off !!!! I am about to throw all this shit in the bin!!!!

[jdom1984]

the true bypass works fine. I had my circuit working by bypassing one of the pots so I replaced it and it still doesnt work. When I turn the pots they are doing something, they made some weird fluffy sound, like noise which I normally associate with a dirty pot. I tested them all they all work. I have just about replaced everything...

HOW the hell do I know if a capacitor works? I can test the resistance on a resistor and see if current is coming through from the battery. How about a capacitor? This is really taking the piss everything I do fails I am a failure and loser and my life sucks and so does eletronics we need to go back to fire and rocks and cave paintings

[dennism]

It seems like you are putting a lot of effort into finding which component is faulty.    Just my 2 cents, but in 20+ years of building hundreds of effects pedals, many of which didn't work the first time, I've never found a faulty component.    The reason they didn't work the first time was always me.   Solder bridges, missed trace cuts, reversed components, that sort of thing.   Just sayin'.

[jdom1984]

q1
c 1.2
b 0.6
e 0

q2
c 4.8
b 1.2
e 0.6


thats voltages to ground on footswitch

[jdom1984]

i must be doing something wrong.

I am following this stupid diagram which seems totally different to the others that hook up the true bypass footswitch...

I am putting all the ground to the pin on the bypass switch...


all the grounds of the circtuit can join together right?

I just thought it was the pot as when I bypassed it I was getting a proper distorted signal. But now i have replaced it this effect is no longer there. I cannot even get a peep out of it.

[jdom1984]

Is this just a bad solder ?
I think you're right and it's just my mistake but I have gone around and resoldered everything that looks dodgy.

Maybe with more experience I could tell what is wrong with the circuit by identifying the sound...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1URBlvFXp76980m9Nw0gUVKnflu93kV-u/view?usp=drivesdk

[EBK]

I dont want it to take be 10 hours to build one of these! has to be faster! haha...

i must be doing something wrong.

Yes.  You are still rushing. 

Just when you start being methodical, you appear to be expecting instant answers and a circuit that works perfectly.  You get frustrated because your expectations are not matching reality.  This is causing you to take irrational steps like replacing random components and repeatedly rebuilding the circuit. 

(I feel like we need a good analogy here, or maybe an allegory/parable/fable.)

Because the spontaneous and random debugging approach cannot reliably diagnose the actual problem, you are wasting energy and time.

The good news is, we all want you to succeed, but you have to stop asking why your sledgehammer isn't smashing the problems away.

[jdom1984]

yea you are right i am gonna take a chill pill and have another break...

do those new readings I took look ok?

what am I looking for with the voltage readings?

thanks dude.

[jdom1984]

I dont want it to take be 10 hours to build one of these! has to be faster! haha...

i must be doing something wrong.

Yes.  You are still rushing. 

Just when you start being methodical, you appear to be expecting instant answers and a circuit that works perfectly.  You get frustrated because your expectations are not matching reality.  This is causing you to take irrational steps like replacing random components and repeatedly rebuilding the circuit. 

(I feel like we need a good analogy here, or maybe an allegory/parable/fable.)

Because the spontaneous and random debugging approach cannot reliably diagnose the actual problem, you are wasting energy and time.

The good news is, we all want you to succeed, but you have to stop asking why your sledgehammer isn't smashing the problems away.

shit usually makes good allegories. Like "trying to polish a turd". Or "throwing shit at a wall until some of it sticks".

[duck_arse]

all the grounds of the circtuit can join together right?

yes, all grounds on a circuit join together - must join together to complete the circuit. all points marked V+ [or Vcc] join together. all V/2 's will join. this is why we draw circuit diagrams, to show our electrical connections. once you have your electrical, you can worry about your mechanical.

the bypass switch is a bad place to join all your grounds, as that will require [more than usual] soldering heat, and the switch lugs/plastic/innards don't take well to extra heat. a better place to join your grounds is one of the jack sleeve lugs, or, better, on your "board", whichever type you choose.

[EBK]

yea you are right i am gonna take a chill pill and have another break...

do those new readings I took look ok?

what am I looking for with the voltage readings?

thanks dude.

The voltages look plausible.  They will vary with your Filth and Bias control settings.

Try this calculator out:
https://www.diystompboxes.com/biascalc/ffbias.html

[garcho]

Burst box

[PRR]

> q1
> c 1.2
> b 0.6
> e 0
> q2
> c 4.8
> b 1.2
> e 0.6
> what am I looking for with the voltage readings?

Look at the circuit.

Q1 E is grounded, better be zero.

Q1 B must be 0.6V up from E (here, from zero) to turn Q1 on. For the moment, assume it is.

Q1 C will move until Q2 is happy.

Q2 B is same as Q1 C.

Q2 E is 0.6V lower than Q2 B.

Q2 E is biased-up with a 1k resistor, and then there is a connection back to Q1 B. That's how the 0.6V at Q1 B happens.

If there is 0.6V in the 1k resistor at Q2 E, that means 0.6V/1k or 0.6mA flows in Q2. That same current (essentially) flows from Q2 C. This is typically fed from a 6k resistor dropping from B+. 0.6mA times 6k is 3.6V. 3.6V down from a 9V supply is 5.4V at Q2 C.

There are several various values used, and all parts vary, so I won't question your 4.8V where I quick-checked 5.4V. Anyway the "6k" is often 6.8k plus a few-hundreds Ohm resistor, so Q2 C does typically sit lower.

The first goal in Q2 C voltage is: Not zero, not B+! If it were slammed either way the C pin could not vary with signal. You want Q2 C to be "near the middle".

You are here. It should work. I suspect in/out wiring, jacks, switches, maybe caps.

In *fuzz*, after you get "near the middle", and good clean sound for small signals, you may want to try "a bit off the middle" because that changes the flavor of large (distorted) signals. You may have user-trim for that.

[jdom1984]

all the grounds of the circtuit can join together right?

yes, all grounds on a circuit join together - must join together to complete the circuit. all points marked V+ [or Vcc] join together. all V/2 's will join. this is why we draw circuit diagrams, to show our electrical connections. once you have your electrical, you can worry about your mechanical.

the bypass switch is a bad place to join all your grounds, as that will require [more than usual] soldering heat, and the switch lugs/plastic/innards don't take well to extra heat. a better place to join your grounds is one of the jack sleeve lugs, or, better, on your "board", whichever type you choose.

thanks so much for the advice.. What do you mean by on your board? ok so maybe I will use the input jacked sleeeve instead.

[duck_arse]

by "on your board" I mean the board you use to hold all the parts on. the circuit board, be it perf, vero, tag, printed circuit, pencil on cardboard, point-to-point, whatev.

IF you use a board, you put/allow one hole for each wire, then put one wire each hole and connect them all together if/as the circuit says to, and you then haven't melted your switch or your jacks or DC socket.

but you don't need to use a board of any description if you don't want to. it will help repeatabillity if you do, improve accuracy, add mechanical stabillity, lessen wiring f/ups, look nice ......