My Ugly Axis Fuzz

[Doug H]

Long story here... Acrylic clear coat reacted with pretty turquoise enamel. So I tried to fix it by painting it gloss black. That wrinkled too, and more coats made the wrinkling more consistent so I just went with it. I always wanted to do a black box with no labels anyway. Not sure if I should call this the "butt-ugly fuzz" or "oops what did you step in? never mind- it's just the fuzz"...



I think the inside came out better than the outside.




Doug

[Adam Shame]

That's pretty cool.  You should do another one, and put an Obsidian circut in it because, well, it looks like a piece of lava rock.

[petemoore]

That switch looks familiar...
 So do the nice Knobs !!!!
  I'm not going to say it looks great, because it looks like one of my 'sorry' finishing experiences.
 I always figure it can be reboxed later, by the way your 'function aesthetics' look nice, well laid out and tidy...
 Failed paint attempts are hard to get rid of...I 'double-layer-leatherized' some finishes lately with white paint inside letter cutouts of COMP in Black leather on brown leather...Quick, sure fix, and I like the leather look...and makes the RS knobs sound more 'Organicized'...

[gtrmac]

Looks a bit overcooked to me  

Paint stripper would be my next step!

Maybe I'm just picky.

I've been using lacquer since it dries faster and I've has some failed attempts too.

[javacody]

That looks like you put your pedal in the toaster for waaaay too long!

By the way, where do you get the all square junction boxes like that?

[petemoore]

IMO it takes alot of working to get a semi perfect RACO.
 I figure at least three coats of bondo with sanding each one [I start with rasp].
 Dry time is 24hrs. or 20 min.
 The five minute stuff for those inexperienced...expect to see a mismix sooner or later [or both] , too much catylist and it turns to hard corn bread [IMO preferrable to...] not enough bondo catylist is the worst...worse than trying to get bubble gum off.
  Material covering definitely has it's RACO advantages, it evens out the lumps, goes on fast,  is non conductive, doesn't scratch [er show em so much], and adds a little padding.
  The disadvantages I notice are...it's hard to get the seams concealed, it doesn't wipe off right like hard coat, moisture might mess with it.
  I've been doing Blue Jean and Leather coverings, 1 RACO 'simple covered [one piece for top and sides] takes only 20-30 minutes.

[Tobias Karlsson]

I think it's beautiful!!!

Tobias Karlsson in Sweden

[Jason Stout]

Looks cool to me! I like it

[Doug H]

Thanks for all the comments.

I get the square RACO boxes at the home improvement stores- Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

No paint stripper for this, I'm tired of fooling with it. It actually looks better in real life than it came out in the photo. The flash added a "cheese factor" to the pic. Every time I see it I think, "you know, that actually looks pretty cool..." The contrast between the silver switch, knobs, and jacks and the black paint looks pretty cool. A silver led socket would look even better, but don't have any right now.

When I finish the RACO boxes, I don't use bondo or anything. I glue thumbtack heads over the unused holes and just prime and paint as-is. With the punchouts they have sort of an "industrial Erector Set" look, but that's okay.  These little square ones are great because the punchouts are flush. It is still a challenge to label though, since the labels don't work well over a "crack". So I have to find large enough solid areas to label, and limit the size of them to fit.

Doug

[Lonestarjohnny]

Doug, Great lookin pedal, Look's like somthin you would find in a Time Capsul, the min. I gazed at it I thought of an old movie, the Time Machine,
has that mysterous kinda look !
JD