diy laser printing pcb.....

Started by troubledtom, February 20, 2004, 03:00:31 PM

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troubledtom

..........thread or link pleazzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzze
           thanx,
              -tom
ps i'm buying the printer for small runs and proto-types!!!!!!!!!

Chris R


gez

If you have a fluorescent light in your kitchen/bathroom you can use photo board.  You overlay a transparency of your art work onto the board and tape (use masking) the whole lot so that it's in contact with the light's surface.  

It works beautifully and the detail is superb.  I've been doing this for quite a while now and haven't had one bad board, plus you can do as many as you want.

You need special film for your printer though (most electronics suppliers sell the necessary gear).
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

troubledtom

thanx.............
  chis rocks and so does everyone eles that's been helpfull!!
            peace and *%(&%$(&^$(&$O$(O
                     - tom

troubledtom

Quote from: gezIf you have a fluorescent light in your kitchen/bathroom you can use photo board.  You overlay a transparency of your art work onto the board and tape (use masking) the whole lot so that it's in contact with the light's surface.  

It works beautifully and the detail is superb.  I've been doing this for quite a while now and haven't had one bad board, plus you can do as many as you want.

You need special film for your printer though (most electronics suppliers sell the necessary gear).
how long do you expose it 20-30 minutes?
       - tom

MarkB

The link to 5Bears is what I went by - with GREAT results...
try that one.. buzz me if you have questions.
"-)

The Tone God

When I do photo boards I prep the boards myself using the sensatizer spray and a foam brush to get a nice even coat. When exposing I put the film on the board then place it into a simple jig that holds a sheet of glass against the board and film. A cheap picture frame would work too. It makes for good film contact which results in clear images. For good results use short wave UV like that of say oh...a tanning lamp bought cheap at a used shop. :)

Just a few thoughts.

Andrew

gez

Tom, the amount you expose it for depends upon the board.  Whoever you buy it from should have instructions on how long you need to leave it for in their catalogue/on line.  

With a fluorescent light it’s best to leave it for the longest time quoted (if a range is given), otherwise just go with what they recommend.  I just use the strip light in my kitchen and I get perfect results, though you have to literally tape the board to the surface of the light (I use masking tape so that I can reuse the transparencies).  The board I use takes 3mins to develop.

You can tell when it’s ready as it goes a slightly different colour.  When it’s done you just dip it face up in developer (you can get ‘safe’ developers - seno do a good one) for about 30-45 seconds (give it a swirl with a plastic spoon to get all the ink off and don't be afraid to leave it slightly longer if there are stubborn patches) wash it then dump it in ferric.

Print your artwork in reverse image so that the 'ink side' is in contact with the board.  This ensures that no light creeps under the gap and eats away at your traces.
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

gez

PS.  Once etched you can either expose the board again then dunk it in the devloper to remove the resist, or use a cleaner.  You can buy purpose made stuff to do this, but I find just a can of PCB cleaner works.  Perhaps nail polish remover would be OK too?
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

troubledtom

thanx!!!!!!!!!!!! 8)
    peace,
         - tom