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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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rousejeremy

Nice clean work Magnus. Looks like you really take your time.
Consistency is a worthy adversary

www.jeremyrouse.weebly.com

Magnus

QuoteNice clean work Magnus. Looks like you really take your time.
Thank you  :)

But I didnt't build both today, I just finished them today  ;)


Greetings
Magnus
AMZ Booster, Dist. +, DOD 250,
Dr. Boogey, Fuzz Face's, JCM800-Emu, LPB1,
May Booster, Obsidian, Orange T/B-Booster,
Pentaboost, Prof. Tweed, Rangemaster's,
SansAmp GT2, Superfly (Amp), Guv'nor,
Tone Bender MKI/MKII/MKIII, TS 808

lazerphea

AMZ Mini Booster:my first wet-sanded box.





Oh, the guts: you know, the bird's nest again... :D :D


jimmybjj


Steve Mavronis

Quote from: lazerphea on August 11, 2010, 05:37:31 PM
AMZ Mini Booster:my first wet-sanded box.



I like how you left the bottom unpolished, at least that's how it looks. I was thinking about doing the same because it gives a nice contrasting texture effect. What steps did you use to wet sand?
Guitar > Neo-Classic 741 Overdrive > Boss NS2 Noise Suppressor > DOD BiFET Boost 410 > VHT Special 6 Ultra Combo Amp Input > Amp Send > MXR Carbon Copy Analog Delay > Boss RC3 Loop Station > Amp Return

jkokura

what size box is that? Where'd you get it?

Jacob

$uperpuma

Quote from: darron on August 07, 2010, 11:50:22 PM
clearly:


Quote from: Leviathan on June 28, 2006, 08:21:10 PM


I complained a lot about this one but the feedback has been good, so I thought I'd post it

Its been a while since I saw that guy :)
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.

lazerphea

Quote from: Steve Mavronis on August 11, 2010, 09:35:07 PM


I like how you left the bottom unpolished, at least that's how it looks. I was thinking about doing the same because it gives a nice contrasting texture effect. What steps did you use to wet sand?
Yeah, I left the bottom of the box unpolished, mostly because after an hour or so of sanding I was quite tired :D
I used three different grains of sandpaper: 80, 220 and 320. I dry sanded it with the 80 and 220, and only with the 320 I wet sanded it, trying to maintain the same direction while sanding on each face of the box: I used water mixed with some dish soap. Hope this helps! :)

lazerphea

Quote from: jkokura on August 11, 2010, 11:57:18 PM
what size box is that? Where'd you get it?

Jacob
It's a 1590B style box: maybe you've been confused by the 33mm knob! :D

Thomeeque

Quote from: kupfer_m on August 11, 2010, 11:08:07 AM
Wow! You have a solder-robot!!!  ;)

Well, it's a maybe too fancy name for what it is ;) but it can be really helpful sometimes :)

Quote from: kupfer_m on August 11, 2010, 11:08:07 AM
Nice work & very good pictures indeed.

Thanks :) Cheers, T.
Do you have a technical question? Please don't send private messages, use the FORUM!

Steve Mavronis

#13410
Quote from: lazerphea on August 12, 2010, 03:15:14 AMI left the bottom of the box unpolished, mostly because after an hour or so of sanding I was quite tired :D I dry sanded it with the 80 and 220, and only with the 320 I wet sanded it, trying to maintain the same direction while sanding on each face of the box. Hope this helps! :)

The polishing turned out really nice. You mentioned sanding in one direction. What would be the effect of circular sanding, or is one always supposed to sand in one direction?

Quote from: lazerphea on August 12, 2010, 03:18:33 AM
It's a 1590B style box: maybe you've been confused by the 33mm knob! :D

It looks like the Taiwan "B" size boxes like the ones sold on Small Bear licensed for them by Zvex? The corners are more rounded than a 1590B and the screw mounts are recessed instead. But it is basically the same size as a 1590B.
Guitar > Neo-Classic 741 Overdrive > Boss NS2 Noise Suppressor > DOD BiFET Boost 410 > VHT Special 6 Ultra Combo Amp Input > Amp Send > MXR Carbon Copy Analog Delay > Boss RC3 Loop Station > Amp Return

lazerphea

Quote from: Steve Mavronis on August 12, 2010, 07:25:39 AM

The polishing turned out really nice. You mentioned sanding in one direction. What would be the effect of circular sanding, or is one always supposed to sand in one direction?
Thanks man! :)
About sanding in one direction instead of making circular movements, I personally prefer the pattern that comes out, i.e., all the scratches in one direction: it seems to me it gives more uniformity to the finish.

Quote
It looks like the Taiwan "B" size boxes like the ones sold on Small Bear licensed for them by Zvex? The corners are more rounded than a 1590B and the screw mounts are recessed instead. But it is basically the same size as a 1590B.
The box is this one. :)

Steve Mavronis

Quote from: lazerphea on August 12, 2010, 07:38:47 AM
Thanks man! :) About sanding in one direction instead of making circular movements, I personally prefer the pattern that comes out, i.e., all the scratches in one direction: it seems to me it gives more uniformity to the finish.

Ah, that sounds better then. Thanks for the tip! The next time I get a bare metal box I'll try it. I only have to do the 4 sides because I use an etched aluminum instrument panel for labeling/artwork that sticks on the top surface.
Guitar > Neo-Classic 741 Overdrive > Boss NS2 Noise Suppressor > DOD BiFET Boost 410 > VHT Special 6 Ultra Combo Amp Input > Amp Send > MXR Carbon Copy Analog Delay > Boss RC3 Loop Station > Amp Return

igerup

Quote from: lazerphea on August 11, 2010, 05:37:31 PM

Oh, the guts: you know, the bird's nest again... :D :D



Almost as messy as the ones I make.  :icon_lol: Just a few more attemtps and you're there  :icon_wink:
That pic can actually trick people into thinking there's no board in there. It's so well hidden by the wires.  8)

studiostud

Quote from: lazerphea on August 12, 2010, 07:38:47 AM

About sanding in one direction instead of making circular movements, I personally prefer the pattern that comes out, i.e., all the scratches in one direction: it seems to me it gives more uniformity to the finish.



If you're getting into the sanding/polishing thing instead of painting, you should look into this tutorial:  http://www.instructables.com/id/Simulated-woodgrain-for-metal-boxes/

I think something like this would be right up your alley.  You can find the translucent paint at auto parts store or the best places are hobby shops that sell model cars/airplanes/trains/etc.
Builds Completed: Big Muff. Fuzz Face. Tube Screamer. Rat. Crash Sync. Harmonic Jerkulator. 6-band EQ. Rebote 2.5. Tremulus Lune. Small Stone. Small Clone. Microamp. LPB-2. Green Ringer. Red Ranger. Orange Squeezer. SansAmp. MXR Headphone Amp. Bass Fuzz.

lazerphea

Quote from: igerup on August 12, 2010, 11:01:02 AM

Almost as messy as the ones I make.  :icon_lol: Just a few more attemtps and you're there  :icon_wink:
That pic can actually trick people into thinking there's no board in there. It's so well hidden by the wires.  8)
Lol! Actually the circuit was a neat, little one: but when it comes to put it in the box, then the mess begins! :D

lazerphea

Quote from: studiostud on August 12, 2010, 11:28:18 AM

If you're getting into the sanding/polishing thing instead of painting, you should look into this tutorial:  http://www.instructables.com/id/Simulated-woodgrain-for-metal-boxes/

I think something like this would be right up your alley.  You can find the translucent paint at auto parts store or the best places are hobby shops that sell model cars/airplanes/trains/etc.
Cool link! Thanks Jeff, I always wanted to get those abrasive wheels, now I think I need them! :)

paulyy

Here's a BYOC Flanger Iv had for awhile now but I hated the paint job I did on it last year. So I got bored and repainted it. Here's some before and after pics and some in between.






Brymus

I like the effect you got from burnishing the aluminum.
Makes the labeling look like those old 70s chrome stickers.
I'm no EE or even a tech,just a monkey with a soldering iron that can read,and follow instructions. ;D
My now defunct band http://www.facebook.com/TheZedLeppelinExperience

valdiorn

#13419
Proco Rat that I modded the f*ck out of:



It has switches for Silicon, LED and asymmetric clipping (1 Led / 1 Si), Ruetz Mod and OD/Distortion (in OD mode the diodes are connected over the op-amp, like a Tubescreamer)

Also simplified the input stage, no buffer (Similar to schematic on Tonepad.com), lowered the input cap to 1n as I found it too muddy and bassy (maybe that's just part of the Rat sound, but I like it better this way)

For anyone interested, check this post on my webpage, has a link to schematic and vero layout (altough not very great you can at least see how the mods work)


Edit: I forgot, I built the pedal to use as a reference for this project
Basically, I'm doing a digital simulation of the Rat and it's going pretty well.