Tonepad CE-2 debug

Started by Fuzzy-Train, April 12, 2007, 07:39:15 PM

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Andre

Does the LED switch on and off ?

If so, the flipflop's OK.
Check if there's a voltage change at the gate of the FET if you hit the switch.
If there is, your FET's broken, otherwise you could check R49, C28 and D4.

What stopped the CE-2 from chorussing in the first place ?

André

wui223

Quote from: Andre on May 11, 2007, 03:25:45 AM
Does the LED switch on and off ?

If so, the flipflop's OK.
Check if there's a voltage change at the gate of the FET if you hit the switch.
If there is, your FET's broken, otherwise you could check R49, C28 and D4.
André

Which FET are u refering to?

QuoteWhat stopped the CE-2 from chorussing in the first place ?

I overlooked a connection problem which i think i am so stupid to make such a mistake

Andre

In the CE-2 schematic diagram I have there is only 1 FET and it's labelled Q9.

André

wui223

Thanks Andre, finally fix the CE-2. Now the CE-3 is still dead, anymore idea?

And how to check the BBD clock ?i might seek for scope at uni lab

loulouloudaurat

Hello everybody,
I know this is an old topic, but I would like to have some help debugging my CE-2 clone coming from tonepad; in bypass or not I only have input signal: where I sgould hear the chorus effect, I don't hear it, only the guitar signal... I removed all the bypass stuff but the problem is still there, the 3pdt is not guilty. Now I'm searching for an error but I don't find anything. I've resoldered every pin, lifted the eigth pin of IC4...
Thanks for replying :)

Andre

These are the voltages I measured on my Tonepad CE-2.
I've posted them earlier, but they got lost when I switched from one internet provider to another.
Please let us know the differences between those and your voltage readings.



loulouloudaurat

thanks a lot for this, I'm happy somebody replyed as fast!
excuse my bad english, I'm a french guy!
I'll check voltages when i'll have time :)
thanks again!

loulouloudaurat

hey, I've got news: I had time enough to measure ICs voltages: here they are:
IC1:
1)2.69              8)8.56 
2)2.69              7)2.67 
3)2.65              6)2.68
4)0                  5)2.67

IC2:
1)0.75~7.72)     8)8.47 
2)4.40~4.08)     7)2.3~6.2
3)0~6.5             6)2.40
4)0                  5)4~4.40

IC3:
1)7.52              8)0 
2)5.57~5.62      7)0
3)0.88              6)0
4)0.88              5)0

IC4:
1)7.51              8)0.77 
2)3.82              7)2.29~2.94
3)0                  6)6.43~6.70
4)5.56~5.61     5)0.31~0.43

there are a lot of weird measures... I hadn't time enough to check trannys, anyway here we see that there is a problem.
thank you for your help.

loulouloudaurat


Govmnt_Lacky

If I were you I would hook up to a dedicated 9.0V power supply and remeasure your voltages. Also include the voltages at the transistors (Q1-Q5).

Also, pictures of your build on both the component and solder side will help a lot!


Good Luck  ;D
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for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Projectile

Quote from: jonathan perez on April 14, 2007, 04:49:48 PM
yup, im pretty sure it has to be polarized

You seem to have a lot of posts here, so I would expect you to know your stuff, but sorry that sounds like complete rubbish. Never in my life have I ever seen a polarized cap that wasn't simply used because of space, cost, or availability issues. Why would you ever NEED a polarized cap in a circuit? That just seems utterly ridiculous.

Projectile

Quote from: Projectile on November 04, 2010, 02:50:23 AM
Quote from: jonathan perez on April 14, 2007, 04:49:48 PM
yup, im pretty sure it has to be polarized

You seem to have a lot of posts here, so I would expect you to know your stuff, but sorry that sounds like complete rubbish. Never in my life have I ever seen a polarized cap that wasn't simply used because of space, cost, or availability issues. Why would you ever NEED a polarized cap in a circuit? That just seems utterly ridiculous.

EDIT: Didn't realize this post was so old. Nevermind, my bad.

Txiske

Hi!
I build this pedal about a year ago and then I gave as a present to a friend... and now I've built it again. But I have a problem, when it is switched on nothing happens, it just sound the same as it wasn't on. And if I twick the trimpot, when it's the full way it doesn't sound anything. Don't know where could be the problem, because I get good sounding signal, but with no chorus effect. The only changes I've made are R21-39K, Rin-1M and R32-470k. When I did it a year ago it sounded perfectly the first time but now... If anyone could know were the problem is...
... the more I learn, the less I know...

Txiske

#73
Hi again!
After checking everything again and again... I noticed that there was a bridge between 2 tracks!!! :icon_surprised:
So I repaired that and, there is the chorus!!! Now just adjust the trimpot and maybe I make some mod...
... the more I learn, the less I know...

Devilll

#74
Hi!

Could someone help me? I built the CE-2, but it acts strange.
I hear the strait signal and some noise, The noise is a poppin thing which reacts for the speed and depth knobs. I think the LFO-s working right maybe. But why do I hear it?
I tried audio probe. I hear the signal on IC3 pin 3, but on pin 7 and 8 I got the noise.
I tried to replace IC2, IC3, IC4, but the result was the same.
If I don't leave R38 out, it blows IC4.

Projectile

R38 is pretty important. You can't just leave it out of the circuit and expect it to work. Start with figuring out what's wrong there.

Did you buy your mn3007 and mn3101 chips from reputable supplier? There are a lot of junk ones floating around on ebay. 

Also, it sounds like you have 2 separate problems. One is noise bleed from the clock, and the other is that you have no signal from the BBD circuit. I'd focus on getting the BBD circuit working first and worry about the noise later. The noise bleed is likely just a lead dress issue.

Devilll

I bought the MN3007 and MN3101 from smallbear.
I know R38 is important, but when I put it inside the circuit, it kills my MN3101. It gives about 8 Volts

Projectile

Quote from: Devilll on September 09, 2011, 04:42:36 AM
I bought the MN3007 and MN3101 from smallbear.
I know R38 is important, but when I put it inside the circuit, it kills my MN3101. It gives about 8 Volts

Well, then you obviously have a problem there. I used an MN3101 from smallbear with the tonepad layout to build a ce2 just a few days ago and it works fine.

Govmnt_Lacky

Check for the following:

1) Values of resistors around IC4
2) Orientation of D1 and D2
3) Solder bridges around IC4 and its supporting components.

Good Luck  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'