Yet another "Neovibe Questions" Thread

Started by kurtlives, October 30, 2008, 11:54:02 PM

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kurtlives

Sorry probably some boring standard questions but I did a search and dint get answers.

The circuit can use DC or AC current...If I used a DC source would I need to make any changes, ie. remove the bridge recto?

I am use these fancy photocells from SME http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Photocells+and+Photocouplers Most people I have seen mount this flush to the PCB instead of on a 90 degree angle like suggest. Does it really matter, what should I do?

Should Q13 the driver be socketed? Seems like this transistor is under a fair bit of stress and has the potential to burn out/die?

I am using a 12V 40mA lamp. Is this fine? Also I would imagine it would be a good idea to have a power switch on this effect as the bulb is always pulsating. Even when the effect is off and even when your done playing. Only way to stop it is too pull the power. Incandescent bulbs don't last forever, and I really don't wanna replace a mini one a big PCB of a working effect. So I was thinking a power switch would be useful???

Thanks...
My DIY site:
www.pdfelectronics.com

yodude


yeeshkul

#2
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The circuit can use DC or AC current...If I used a DC source would I need to make any changes, ie. remove the bridge recto?
the bridge is just 4 diodes, so it causes a little drop. you can leave it out if you're gonna use DC, also if you use a well rectified power, then you can leave out the big caps - just insert one small cap instead (470uF)
Quote
I am use these fancy photocells from SME http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Photocells+and+Photocouplers Most people I have seen mount this flush to the PCB instead of on a 90 degree angle like suggest. Does it really matter, what should I do?
If you gonna use metal shield or any sort of aluminium foil, mount them face-up. If you're gonna use a bare plastic film can then face them to the bulb.
Quote
Should Q13 the driver be socketed? Seems like this transistor is under a fair bit of stress and has the potential to burn out/die?
the best thing you can do is JC's mod. Get a darlington pait in one package (3 legs), let's say in TO-126 package(stressproof) + 250k trimpot(instead of resistors R47/R50) to adjust the R47/R50 divider by ear so the driver bias fits your cells the best.
Quote
I am using a 12V 40mA lamp. Is this fine? Also I would imagine it would be a good idea to have a power switch on this effect as the bulb is always pulsating. Even when the effect is off and even when your done playing. Only way to stop it is too pull the power. Incandescent bulbs don't last forever, and I really don't wanna replace a mini one a big PCB of a working effect. So I was thinking a power switch would be useful???
connect the spare pins on your on/off 3PDT to the intensity pot the way 3PDT will shorten the pot when neo is off. No power switch needed.


kurtlives

Could I use a DPDT switch to break the AC connections going to the PCB? That would be a power switch?

Unless that cancel switch does turn off the lamp??

What do you mean by
Get a darlington pait in one package (3 legs), let's say in TO-126 package(stressproof).

What transistor specifically?
My DIY site:
www.pdfelectronics.com

yeeshkul

Quote
Could I use a DPDT switch to break the AC connections going to the PCB? That would be a power switch?

Unless that cancel switch does turn off the lamp??

cancel does turn the lamp off. you can use it as well as breaking the voltage wires.

Quote
What do you mean by
Get a darlington pait in one package (3 legs), let's say in TO-126 package(stressproof).

What transistor specifically?
pait = pair. any i guess. i used BD675A.