Hello solderman,
I hope that in the next week I will get the PCBs for this fabulous ADA Flanger (I will have eternal gratitude for you and all the wonderful people which worked on ADA Flanger!) and I have some (maybe stupid) questions:
1. Do these instructions
http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADA_MN3007/ADA%20Flanger%20Clone%20Build%20Instructions%20PCB%20rev5%20MN3007%20Jan2010.pdf made by moosapotamus are the proper one to your PCBs (there are more versions on his site)?
2. If the answer to question no.1 is YES go to questions no. 3, else go to question no. 4.
3. a) In the instructiuons, C38 is listed as a 2uF electro, but the Mouser code seems to be one of a 2.2uF electro. Which is the correct value?
b) The LT1054 it's very expensive here, and MAX 1044 can't be found. Can I use ICL7660 instead?
c) What type of LM7815 have you used in your clone: the little one (TO92) or the big one (like an IRFxxxx)?
d) C36 is listed as 22-33uF electro. How to choose between these two values?
e) Some values of the resistors I can't find here (250R, 14K, 1.3M). Are them critical (in this case I will combine 2 resistors to get them...but I hate this!) or I can approximate them (220/240R, 13/15K and 1.2/1.5M)?
4. The DIP switches must be something like that:
http://www.syscomelco.ro/ProdusDetaliu.asp?ID=1930 (I never used DIP switches before...)?
5. For the safeness of my only MN3007: if I plan to use only the MN3007 (very hard to get a MN3207 here), I must to use jumpers for the green connections and nothing for the blue ones?
6. DIP 1 is for switching between 9V/15V, I suppose. Which are the differences between the two versions? Is there a serious reason to keep the DIP or I can use a simple jumper for one of the versions?
7. You said: "By me Added caps and resistors have got a number higher than that on the original BOM." Which components have you added and what are their values?
Best regards and many thanks,
Radu