Building the tap tempo tremolo

Started by Taylor, April 19, 2010, 05:39:15 PM

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lespos

#500
Quote from: Gaetano Capuano on January 20, 2012, 11:42:28 PM
CRAP where can I purchase an NSL-32   ???

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=356  Small Bear Electronics is your best fiend ;)

There is my build


For waveform and multiplier i using rotary switches instead of pots. That makes these functions a bit more understandabe. If someone interested - i found perfect rotary switches for that

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SRBV160803/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYusHPuglWmCRYaNeyNyivdg%3d 6 position for multiplier

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SRBV181004/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYusHPuglWmCRbZTSllc6Pt4%3d 8 position for waveform

All you need to do is build additional PCB
There is PCB's (open with Sprint Layot)

with trough hole resistors
NOT VERIFIED because i build second one version with SMD (8060 size) resistors

with SMD (8060)resistors

VERIFIED

all PCB's is ready to trasfer

Valoosj

Could you post an image file of that layout? Or a schematic version of it? I don't have the program to open this layout.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Gaetano Capuano

So it seems a few have said get a few optocouplers cause some are noisier than others, yet all the builds they look like they are not socketed. Would you recomend socketing them?
Also seems it may be awkward using regular pots for the wave form and subdivision pots, any thoughts on this?


Also a guy who built one recommended surface mount pots to help prevent noise issues   :icon_mrgreen:

I am gonna be building this one over the next few days or so, pics coming soon.

lespos

Quote from: Valoosj on January 26, 2012, 05:15:16 PM
Could you post an image file of that layout? Or a schematic version of it? I don't have the program to open this layout.

There is no reason post image files, because when you will print it, you can't be sure that it will be in correct size
Just download and install Sprint Layout viewer. It's for free!
http://www.abacom-online.de/uk/html/sprint-layout.html
Scroll down to the end. There is a viewer download link ;)

With this viewer you can open .lay files and print it in correct size.

lespos

Quote from: Gaetano Capuano on January 26, 2012, 06:19:17 PM
So it seems a few have said get a few optocouplers cause some are noisier than others, yet all the builds they look like they are not socketed. Would you recomend socketing them?
Also seems it may be awkward using regular pots for the wave form and subdivision pots, any thoughts on this?


Also a guy who built one recommended surface mount pots to help prevent noise issues   :icon_mrgreen:

I am gonna be building this one over the next few days or so, pics coming soon.

Of course you can use sockets for optocouplers, but IMO - that's a waste of money. They have only 4 pins, so you can easy change it if needed :) I was try both of recommended optocouplers - VTL5C3 and NSL-32. Stayed with NSL-32.

Yes, i think rotary switches is better than pots. If you using pots, you can't be really sure where is the point when waveform or multiplier stages changes. With rotary switches this is more comfortably.

 


Lucas M

Hi everyone,
I built the tap trem for a friend and it worked perfect. I brought it over to his place to try it, i forgot to bring my 9v adaptor i was using so he hooked an adaptor to it. I had no idea, but he hooked up an 18v adaptor and now the unit ticks like crazy, the waveform selections are all off and when its bypasses it still clicks and make weird feedback noises. Do any of you gents out there know what is bad in the unit now? i think it could be the trem ic, but I'm not sure. I'm going to get new chips anyway, but i wanted to hear others opinions in case there is something else wrong that i didn't know about.

Thanks a bunch,
Lucas


Valoosj

Try the 7805 and see if you get 5V out of it. I had a similar issue due to a wrong pinout of the thing. Mistook it for a 78L05.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Gaetano Capuano

Wow, I put the one diode in backwards, plugged it in, fired it up, and the resistor next to it became a burning ember  :'(


Crp, is my whole project shot???????????

.Mike

Whoa now. Hold up. The easiest way to ensure your project is shot it to start replacing random components without knowing why.

Your resistor burning is a symptom of something pulling too much current. What's pulling too much current? Your diode. When you turned it around, you setup a situation where your circuit is a dead short across a 10-ohm resistor.

Replace the diode and the resistor.

Remove the TAPLFO IC.

Power the effect.

Measure and share the following voltages: battery, all pins of your voltage regulator, all pins on your TAPLFO socket.

That is where I would start. :)

Mike
If you're not doing it for yourself, it's not DIY. ;)

My effects site: Just one more build... | My website: America's Debate.

Gaetano Capuano

Oh I was jsut about to give up  ::)


Maybe I should re group and replace these pieces?

Gaetano Capuano

Ok, I replaced the resistor and the diode, put a new diode in the correct way. Plugged it in and it seems to be working. Its not mounted in an enclosure, but I alligator cliped the hot tothe hot of a dc adpter, and the ground to the ground, plugged it in, switched it on, and the LED flashes with tempo, when engaged I need to be touching the ground on the jack to get the signal to pass through, I assume because its not in an enclosure. The flashes change with the waveforms, the effected signal is lower than bypass signal, I did not have time to bias and all that, so I hope I am on the right track.

Taylor

I recommend connecting all ground with wires rather than expecting the enclosure to do the grounding for you. JAcks can become loose, etc.

Gaetano Capuano

Quote from: Taylor on January 31, 2012, 04:08:06 PM
I recommend connecting all ground with wires rather than expecting the enclosure to do the grounding for you. JAcks can become loose, etc.

Yeah I do.


I was being hopeful, but its not that. When engaged there is no signal, when I mess around with the 3PDT and squeeze the lugs I can get a signal..........  The LED works, blinks to tempo and wave form.


Thoughts? All my wiring looks good.................

Taylor

Squeeze the lugs of what? If it's the 3pdt then it might be a bad switch.

Make sure when getting it setup to put the wave distort knob in the center - at some extremes it will barely cut on. At that point you may just need to tweak the trimpots. if that doesn't get anything going then the usual debug technique with an audio probe may be in order. The audio section is pretty small, so if you LED is flashing you're pretty close.

Gaetano Capuano

yeah the lugs of the 3pdt, which makes me think it might be something in the wiring.

Gaetano Capuano

OK guys, I got my audio probe out. Actually just built one. I cant tell where the audio path of this circuit is though. I do have nice, pulsing coming out of the led side of my optocoupler though  :icon_razz:


Help

lespos

#518
Wiring should be done like that. Check signal in these testpoints, and then tell us where you lost it.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BxW0oyyuIeI7NWE1NWYzMTktY2I0Ni00MjViLTljNTItOGYwYTI1Yjg0YzY4&hl=en_US

Beo

I just realized I only have 4 10KB pots, but my box is drilled to implement all five (including wave dist, no ext gain pot). I have lots of other linear pots (5k, 20K, etc) and I could do the parallel resistor thing, but that will make my pot act as a Log pot.

Can a 20KB or 50KB pot be subbed in anywhere? Otherwise, will a 10KB (makeshift) be usable for any of the controls?