In all my years of doing layouts in DIYLC, I've developed the following habits;
- I always start with an oversized board in DIYLC. Trimming it down to actual size when done is easy.
- In DIYLC set the transparency of all my components to 50%. Easy to see cuts underneath, but components are still clearly visible.
- I try to put the power rails as far apart as is feasible. I may have to nudge them up or down during conception, or jumper to other rows, but I try not to run them directly parallel to each other, if at all possible.
- I design the power section first. Then I'll build the audio chain(s). When I need power or ground to a certain point, I'll pull up or down to it with jumpers.
- For caps, I always try to respect the actual lead spacing. Nothing bugs me more than a radial electro cap with 2.5mm LS, and the leads are stretched over 14 rows. Same goes for smaller caps. It's fugly. OK OK, sometimes a stretch to the next row is a necessary evil. I won't tell if you don't.
- For resistors, I have no qualms whatsoever to stand them up. It saves space. If it works for the Japanese, it's hella good enough for me. For 1/4w resistors, I try not to stretch the leads too far either. Like caps, I hate to see a resistor spread out over umpteen rows or holes. I try to keep it under 6 holes, unless it's a real bugger.
- Don't be afraid to share a hole with two components, if the leads fit. Think a 4148 diode, or resistor chain. Sharing is good... it saves space!
- Put LOTS of info on your layouts. There's no such thing as "too much info". Number of cuts, number of jumpers, the BOM, wiring, miscellaneous info, warnings, and whatever else you might need. I even like labelling my rows, especially on big veros, it allows me to focus on what's going where and fed by what. There's nothing worse than being hip deep into your build, and suddenly realizing that you're not sure where a wire goes, or how a transistor should be orientated.
- Once I have a layout done, and checked that it matches the schematic, I usually walk away from it for a few days. Nothing... and I mean nothing, will bring out the "what the @#$% was I thinking there?" factor like a fresh set of eyes.
- Now begins the down sizing. Unless I'm working with a potentially noisy circuit (clocks, timers, etc.), I'll start to compress the layout as much as possible. It's like a form of sudoku, and might take me a few more days, depending on the size of the vero, of course. Usually this also requires additional trace checking to the schematic. You start moving things around, inevitably some things slip through the cracks.
- I ALWAYS reserve at least two 3 x 3 areas at diagonally opposite corners for 3mm holes. If I can work in 3 or even 4 holes, without sacrificing too much real estate, then I'll do it. I buff off the copper in these areas, and use these areas for screws and nylon standoffs. I don't do "floating" boards, or double sided tape, or foam, or whatever other cheesy fastening methods that are out there (leading up to the ever entertaining "Arrrrgh!! My project doesn't work when it's in the box!! HELP!!" threads). My boards are firmly secured to the enclosure. With hardware. If I kick it across the room... it'll still work. I mean, I don't actually kick them... but if I did...
Finally, if I'm lucky, I'll get a decent layout that not only fits the part, but looks it too, and not least of all, works...




And when I get really bored, I do stoopid shit like this...

That's just my two bits. Don't get me wrong... the guys over at Tagboard, or Sabrotone, or what(who)ever else is out there, do great work. Word. I just have my own foibles when it comes to vero design. With time, you'll figure out what works best for you. If it works, then it's not wrong. It all starts with... DOING!
