SMF for DIYStompboxes.com!
Started by Skruffyhound, December 17, 2009, 07:24:55 PM
Quote from: Taylor on September 12, 2020, 09:56:51 PMOK, so your input stage is working right up before it hits the FET. Early on you said you had audio coming out, but it wasn't affected by the LFO. Now, your audio is not coming out of the output at all. Have you tried messing with the bias pot after you got your LFO working? If you're not able to get any audio out regardless of how bias is set, I would think something may be wrong with your FET. If you can get your hands on another 2n3819, I would swap it out.
Quote from: bluebunny on October 12, 2020, 05:24:41 PMWelcome.You're right about the screen print: it's intended to mimic the shape of the device. As for the pinout, you really need to check the datasheet for the specific brand of JFET that you've bought. Just doing a quick search, I've come up with results for DGS and SGD. Happily, JFETs are often symmetrical, so it may not make a difference in this case. Since you've fitted sockets, you can test out my theory!
Quote from: jackwithoneye on October 17, 2020, 07:57:06 AMhi, i used the musikding kit too, and i can confirm that the print matchs the transistor orientation
Quote from: jackwithoneye on September 11, 2020, 07:02:42 PMThank you for your answer TaylorOk i'll remove my 2 mod toggle switches. The second one is the optionnal 10uF cap, anti-ticks, which i putted on a switch. ( i didn't know if i would keep it or not)I'd carefully checked continuity on the 2P6T before everything, and i can confirm how it's routed : Blue wires are A1&B1 (pcb 2&7), green A2&B2 (pcb 3&8 ), Yellow A3&B3 (pcb 4&9), orange A4&B4 (pcb 5&10), red A0&B0 (pcb 1&6)As you see,i putted jumpers over lug 4-5-6 on A, and B, to avoid dead positions on the rotary switches. So, square wave should be over position 4,5 and 6.i assume that's i have been meticulous on this, and when i check continuity, over different lugs when it's wired, it makes sense regarding the rest of the circuit and the rotaru switch position. I have a doubt on the FET, as i don't know how to test it, and how it should react, or give information on scope or not.(i'm still a noobie...)
Quote from: jackwithoneye on October 22, 2020, 04:49:52 AMQuote Did you have any ticking on your finished device?
Quote Did you have any ticking on your finished device?
Quote from: telebiker on August 23, 2019, 08:06:40 PMI'm curious, has anyone faced up to the issue when the effect has hi-freq hissing noise while on? It's loud enough to be clearly hearable, however, the wet signal is louder and also very clear. And hissing increases when something exists in the input jack.
Quote from: BetterOffShred on December 09, 2019, 01:53:12 PMMake sure your 1044 I'd the scpa variety. Needs the "s" or they will make high pitched whine in audio devices
Quote from: Wingnut on October 19, 2020, 03:02:36 AMShame they couldn't supply the correct rotary switch. Where did you buy your replacement get from?
Quote from: Taylor on October 18, 2020, 04:42:39 PMSo, it sounds like your LFO section is working and the audio section is letting sound through. That seems similar to what jackwithoneye was experiencing above - the two main sections work but not the part that connects them, the FET. Try picking up another 2n3819 from elsewhere to see if that solves it as it did for the above poster.
Quote from: Wingnut on November 09, 2020, 05:10:33 PMAm I right thinking, from left to right, clockwise, square, slope up, slope down then triangle?
Quote from: telebikerIn my case it was slope up → slope down → triangle → square./quote]That's what I'm getting, I think, assuming the triangle is quieter, as I don't have a scope. I know the triangle is quieter on a hex drone box I made, as it uses caps to smooth the square wave.
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