Author Topic: A/DA Flanger does TZF? (Read 320412 times)

stumper1 · « **Reply #740 on:** December 27, 2007, 02:20:20 AM »

So....almost a year after I started building this - it's almost done. It works!!!

Haven't dialed it in yet - been ignoring the wife all day so have to stop for now.

Does the jack for the expression pedal need to be isolated from the box/ground? It looks like it should be. Unfortunately I wasn't thinking about that when I drilled the box

LaceSensor · « **Reply #741 on:** July 23, 2012, 05:18:49 PM »

Started my build of this today, got a working flange and it sounds epic. Dont have a scope so im doing it all by ear, and im happy even with that

Cant wait to box this mother hubbard!

LaceSensor · « **Reply #742 on:** July 23, 2012, 06:59:03 PM »

Followed the videos, thanks Moosapotamus

Could for the life of me get a decent frequency adjustment with the stock Clock Capacitor.
Only changing it to a 22pF cap could I get very close to the required values.

moosapotamus · « **Reply #743 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:48:20 PM »

Glad to hear you got her working!

~ Charlie

Ry · « **Reply #744 on:** July 23, 2012, 09:25:01 PM »

Hahaha, I just realized that I still have my working board sitting on a shelf. I was so overwhelmed by the possible mods that I never could decide which ones to implement and, thus, never put it in it's awesome enclosure.

I need to finish this project.

Dave W · « **Reply #745 on:** July 23, 2012, 09:34:21 PM »

Quote from: Ry on July 23, 2012, 09:25:01 PM

Hahaha, I just realized that I still have my working board sitting on a shelf. I was so overwhelmed by the possible mods that I never could decide which ones to implement and, thus, never put it in it's awesome enclosure.
I need to finish this project.

Build it stock. Sounds great just like that, IMHO.

LaceSensor · « **Reply #746 on:** July 24, 2012, 05:16:27 AM »

Quote from: moosapotamus on July 23, 2012, 08:48:20 PM

Glad to hear you got her working!

~ Charlie

Cheers, any thoughts on the clock cap swap?

Fender3D · « **Reply #747 on:** July 24, 2012, 07:33:01 AM »

Such small capacitor value may be influenced by track width, tin amount, pins lenght, rosin residuals...
You should try and measure it on PCB (switched off BTW

)

moosapotamus · « **Reply #748 on:** July 24, 2012, 08:36:46 AM »

Quote from: Dave W on July 23, 2012, 09:34:21 PM

Build it stock. Sounds great just like that, IMHO.

Ditto

Quote from: LaceSensor on July 24, 2012, 05:16:27 AM

Cheers, any thoughts on the clock cap swap?

Another thought... Since recently getting some bad 4047 chips, I've noticed that swapping out one 4047 for another in a previously calibrated circuit can really mess up the calibration. Perhaps you happened to get a 4047 that's on the edge of the manufacturing specs, and so it required a smaller cap, maybe?

~ Charlie

LaceSensor · « **Reply #749 on:** July 24, 2012, 09:07:53 AM »

Hmmm, I think I have another chip but its working ok now...hmmm. fact is I didnt actually have a 39pF cap so started with a 47pF...

LaceSensor · « **Reply #750 on:** July 24, 2012, 06:30:06 PM »

Heres a couple shots of mine. Need to decide how to decorate it.

The on off (right ftsw) is a red diffuse under a clear bezel, blinks in time with the LFO
The left ftsw is for the polarity of the harmonics. Bi-color common cathode, yellow = odd, green = even.

Wasnt sure how to build this into the case, ended up dremeling near the top of the PCB to allow a bit more clearance for the footswitches.
Then I figured it just work out fine to have the jacks on the side. Made putting it together a breeze.

This was a super enjoyable build. before boxing I switched the threshold pot for a 100kb and it works much better now.
I used a 2n5457 FET for the transistor. Seemed the same as J201. 2SK30 which Ive also seen mentioned didnt work well...

I now am waiting for a C pot for the rate. With a 500kB, it really sucks

Any word on what a 1MC would be like? I have a couple of those in my stocks...Would this offer faster sweeps, or just even more slow ones?
I saw someone mentioned using a 250kC, but I couldnt get one (only a 200kC, and a 500kC, both in the mail now)

Cheers for all the work on the boards and the information on these pages.

edd29 · « **Reply #751 on:** July 24, 2012, 07:54:25 PM »

Nice and clean build .
You have a similar setting with mine lfo bi-color led for odd, even switch
But I have a cheap plastic case for the cheap vero board layout,
But the sound is amazing jet plane .

moosapotamus · « **Reply #752 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:18:05 PM »

Quote from: LaceSensor on July 24, 2012, 06:30:06 PM

I now am waiting for a C pot for the rate. With a 500kB, it really sucks
Any word on what a 1MC would be like? I have a couple of those in my stocks...Would this offer faster sweeps, or just even more slow ones?
I saw someone mentioned using a 250kC, but I couldnt get one (only a 200kC, and a 500kC, both in the mail now)

A 1Mc pot should work okay for the speed control. I don't think it will affect the max speed, but will enable slower min speed. If it's too slow for you, just put a 1M resistor in parallel to drop the overall value of the 1Mc pot to 500K.

Also, if you like the slower speed, keep in mind that blinking LED could remain dark for around 15 to 20 seconds each cycle.

Nice looking build.

~ Charlie

LaceSensor · « **Reply #753 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:25:31 PM »

Strangely, my LED never goes completely out, so its cool.

Thanks for the tip on the 1MC
Think I might as well just wait for the proper one to come in the mail tho

Ry · « **Reply #754 on:** January 13, 2021, 11:45:46 AM »

Zombie Thread Revival! I finally finished this build...14 years later. It sounds great! I was thrilled to find all the information I needed still here.

It only took a pandemic and lots of time on my hands to get around to it, but I completed this and 49 other builds in 2020...

ali1111 · « **Reply #755 on:** February 27, 2023, 01:21:28 PM »

Hi friends, i just built this pedal (with mn3007) but it is a little bit noisy, i put 10K pots for each knob, i think if i change the amout of pots the problem will solve , so i want to know what is the best volume pots for this pedal for each knob?

eh la bas ma · « **Reply #756 on:** February 27, 2023, 05:03:22 PM »

Quote from: ali1111 on February 27, 2023, 01:21:28 PM

Hi friends, i just built this pedal (with mn3007) but it is a little bit noisy, i put 10K pots for each knob, i think if i change the amout of pots the problem will solve , so i want to know what is the best volume pots for this pedal for each knob?

Which version did you build ?

I built Lectric-Fx Flintlock and it is noisy when I am running it at 9V, with IC11 LT1054 installed.

However, the circuit is perfectly silent when IC11 is empty, using a 18V power supply, instead of the charge pump.

https://lectric-fx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Flintlock-V.1.3.pdf

ali1111 · « **Reply #757 on:** February 28, 2023, 03:23:37 AM »

I made this layout

ali1111 · « **Reply #758 on:** February 28, 2023, 03:50:57 AM »

Any suggestion for modding this pedal
for better tones ? Please share your ideas, thanks

Aph · « **Reply #759 on:** February 28, 2023, 01:31:31 PM »

Quote from: eh la bas ma on February 27, 2023, 05:03:22 PM

Quote from: ali1111 on February 27, 2023, 01:21:28 PM
Hi friends, i just built this pedal (with mn3007) but it is a little bit noisy, i put 10K pots for each knob, i think if i change the amout of pots the problem will solve , so i want to know what is the best volume pots for this pedal for each knob?

Which version did you build ?

I built Lectric-Fx Flintlock and it is noisy when I am running it at 9V, with IC11 LT1054 installed.

However, the circuit is perfectly silent when IC11 is empty, using a 18V power supply, instead of the charge pump.

https://lectric-fx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Flintlock-V.1.3.pdf

I agree.
The best thing you can do is have a separate 18v power supply to power this.

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Author Topic: A/DA Flanger does TZF? (Read 320412 times)