Author Topic: Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals... (Read 865099 times)

flo · « **Reply #80 on:** October 29, 2008, 08:13:03 PM »

Quote from: Valoosj on October 29, 2008, 04:19:44 PM

... but I'd hate it if it bleeds through when the pedal is in bypass.

If you use true bypass and a daisy chained power supply and then get ticking bleed through in the other FXs when bypassed:
Decouple the power supply of the FX from the rest of the power supply daisy chain by putting a 100 ohm resistor in series with the 9V rail inside your FX with a 0.1uF cap to ground.

earthtonesaudio · « **Reply #81 on:** October 30, 2008, 07:39:20 AM »

I'd take some suggestions from here and try to fix the ticking this way:
First try it with a battery. (make a little battery-to-DC jack adapter) If there's no ticking, try the filtering suggestions. If the ticking remains even when battery powered, you don't need to add filtering to the power supply, but something else.
I'd try grounding the output when bypassed. That might work...
If all else fails, sacrifice the LED indicator and use that third pole to stop the oscillator when in bypass. You don't really need the LED for that effect, right?

1878 · « **Reply #82 on:** October 30, 2008, 01:03:09 PM »

I've tried all but the last suggestion. I have two boards and switch between the two with an a/b, so the LED is invaluable for me. I don't mind the little on/off switch I fitted, but I'll experiment when I make the next one.

EDIT:

When building a pedal, I always use a battery to test until I know everything functions properly. The ticking was there then, and it didn't get any worse/better when I went to the power supply.

Valoosj · « **Reply #83 on:** October 30, 2008, 06:12:02 PM »

In stead of sacrifing the LED, why not use the lugs to hook up a DPDT relais to it, which decouples the lfo and takes care of the LED?
Or is this crazy talk?

1878 · « **Reply #84 on:** October 30, 2008, 07:43:49 PM »

I think that's what I've done, except I've used a micro toggle switch. I've got an old SPDT footswitch that could be used for this, but, if you used a DPDT, you could use the other lugs for an LED to indicate whether the power is being fed to the 555.

It's a lot of messing though isn't it !!

solderman · « **Reply #85 on:** October 31, 2008, 05:26:14 AM »

Hi
About LFO ticking/motorboating.

I have successfully managed to bring down or mute the ticking/motorboating from LFO:s on different circuts. I have done this by putting a E-lyt cap over most often lug 2 that uses the LFO and the lug that the LFO rate comes from, Tot the one that goes to GND or some other place. Start with 1-2.2 uF
C4 is such a Cap

//Solderman

earthtonesaudio · « **Reply #86 on:** October 31, 2008, 08:05:34 AM »

How about this: use the LED as the series protection diode in the (+) power line. Break that connection and you get LED and power to turn off simultaneously. Hopefully it won't cause too big of thumps, but you can check for that using the power switch you already have installed.

DWBH · « **Reply #87 on:** November 01, 2008, 09:00:42 AM »

I have an 1590A box somewhere. It used to be a tap tempo box, but I don't need it anymore, so I'll try to put a Trotsky inside.
I'll be using 1 DPDT, DC power jack and a stereo jack for both input and output (Y cable -> 2 mono cables).
I have a phobia for small enclosures, though

Bucky Weaver · « **Reply #88 on:** November 03, 2008, 10:10:18 AM »

I am a new member here. Here is my contribution to this thread:

EASYDRIVE Joe Davisson's circuit. Culturejam's layout. I etched the board myself. Board is less than 1" by 1".
This is one great overdrive. Mine gets a nice crunch.

EJW · « **Reply #89 on:** November 26, 2008, 01:11:12 PM »

This is my first post and first "from scratch" build. After tackling two of the BYOC kits, I wanted to try doing one from scratch and this thread inspired me to put it in a mini-enclosure. The simplicity of the Bazz Fuzz made it an ideal novice project, but you don't get to see the guts because they're ugly. If I do a better job of organizing the ground wires, I'll post the guts of my next build.

Valoosj · « **Reply #90 on:** January 08, 2009, 03:57:17 PM »

Soon my 3 knob phaser will be finished. The board works, I just need the enclosure (a new one

)

earthtonesaudio · « **Reply #91 on:** January 08, 2009, 04:37:53 PM »

Nice!

solderman · « **Reply #92 on:** January 09, 2009, 04:28:35 AM »

Quote from: Valoosj on January 08, 2009, 03:57:17 PM

Soon my 3 knob phaser will be finished. The board works, I just need the enclosure (a new one )

Hi Yorick
Really nice job. A tight fit. Really triggers me to finish my Rebote 1590A Delay2.5

//Solderman

Valoosj · « **Reply #93 on:** January 09, 2009, 03:54:07 PM »

Haha, my layout for that one is done

Andi · « **Reply #94 on:** January 09, 2009, 04:49:19 PM »

That's the insides of one of these:

Guts of a mini AB:

flo · « **Reply #95 on:** January 09, 2009, 06:31:51 PM »

I really like these small FXs, keep them coming please!

danielzink · « **Reply #96 on:** January 25, 2009, 06:58:12 PM »

Easy Drive

Dan

Kearns892 · « **Reply #97 on:** January 25, 2009, 11:45:24 PM »

Quote from: Mr. G. on October 01, 2008, 03:15:28 PM

Here's a little boost pedal I made.

I didn't prep the enclosure between the black paint and the clear coats, so the clear coat is all wrinkled, but in person it actually looks a lot like Marshall style tolex. So, I decided to leave it like it is.

That looks sweet, do you mind posting some more pics and maybe go into more detail of how you got that finish?

mikemaddux · « **Reply #98 on:** January 26, 2009, 05:02:03 AM »

Popeye Buffer

Fuzz Aldryn · « **Reply #99 on:** January 26, 2009, 11:12:42 AM »

Did already posted it in the picture thread but I thought this would be the right place to show off again (self-irony intended)

guts:

News:

Author Topic: Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals... (Read 865099 times)