SMF for DIYStompboxes.com!
Started by Thomeeque, June 03, 2011, 09:27:39 AM
Quote from: jdub on February 27, 2012, 06:01:41 PM@JRM: Having tried both a 1024 and the mn3007 daughterboard retrofit in my EM, it seemed to me that with proper adjustment the 3007 version comes mighty close to the 1024. However, I've never owned an original, so I can't say how close either of mine came to it...my impression, though, is that the 3007 retrofit does capture the character of the effect; as always, though, YMMV.
Quote from: jdub on February 27, 2012, 07:41:18 PMI think this is the case. I guess it depends on application: I didn't do a detailed comparison, as I don't own a scope, I just adjusted them on the bench and used them both at different times in a live setting, and to my ears they both had the same character- which admittedly is a subjective perception. Of course, with the dueling frequencies bouncing around a live gig, it's tough to really zero in on the differences in high-frequency response between the two In a controlled setting, though, I think the SAD would certainly trump the 3007. For me, though, the whole point is to be able to nail the vibe of the Mistress with a $10 chip as opposed to a $50+ chip, and the 3007 versions I think succeed admirably.
QuoteI do have a quick question about the EM3007 board, though, and apologize if it's a foolish one: What, exactly, are the purposes of pads 1 (in ground), 4 (out ground) and 10 & 11 (CC)? Pads 1 & 4 already appear to be connected to circuit ground, so I'm puzzled, and while I know what Vcc is, CC is a new one for me. I haven't run across these designations in other builds. Can they be left unconnected? Anyone? Thanks!
Quote from: jdub on February 29, 2012, 11:59:26 AMThank you, Tomas. Not sure how I missed the CC thing, since I've read over the build notes half a dozen times. Argh! Sorry to bother you with that... As for the input and output grounds, I suspected something like that but wanted to be sure. Thanks again.
Quote from: jdub on February 29, 2012, 11:59:26 AMPS. Apparently I missed the post in this enormous thread about the reversed 3904 (found it after the fact)...my fault really, I normally check transistor pinouts against the schem before soldering...but oh well, easily fixed...!
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMHOT DAMN!First of all, i have to thank Tomas because of his incredible efforts sharing this amazing circuit, you're truly a bro Did MN3207 version,Layout is so nice i had a blast populating the board, and guess what.... i needed only 5 minutes of debugging till this bad boy was running out of control... sounds so sweet, i had The Wall era Pink Floyd tones .... even Brixton Academy Faith no More's Bass flanging (cause im a bassman)
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMnow, im curious about the trimpotsa) theres the 100k one, it regulates vref ...now, in every position it "sounds good" i just hear increments on volume ...whats the ideal voltage it should give off? 4.5?
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMb) color one, 10k trimpot.... it regulates the amount of feedback... i really like the metallic sound, but as said above, it turns into self oscillation pretty fast... id like to mantain the metallic timbre without getting into wailing area, is it possible?
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMc) this one is fun, 22k @ clock driver(?) ...used 50k anyways.... its kind of an offset control... i like it....now, if i turn it almost full to the left, i get more high offset, nearly sounding like TZF... but when its getting really there... it cuts abruptly the flanging, with a little "pop"... something like woooshhhhhhhh-pop-silence-pop-shhhhoooooo...... its like it falls out and deactivates... how to make it sound smooth?
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMwell lots of questions, but this circuits really got me interested, good work!will follow with pics and samples, cheers!
Quote from: nordine on March 22, 2012, 04:52:48 AMedit: toying more with the flanger, i got to clearly distinct clock noise... one thats too high in some settings to be usable..... its no oscillation, its clock noise, a digital(aliased?) kind of wooshing... like heterodyning.... somewhere i read that a proper way to cancel clock noise was to pick the two outs of the delay chip (in this case MN3207) and put a trimpot there ...so this could be replacing R12 and R13 for one 10k trimpot and tweaking it...... could it work??
Quote from: nordine on March 23, 2012, 07:44:44 PMI will try again that 100k trimpot, now that i remember, i set it when i had only the 4558 on board....
Quote from: nordine on March 23, 2012, 07:44:44 PMmaybe i biased it well just by accident, cause i dont hear any distortion in flanging
Quote from: nordine on March 23, 2012, 07:44:44 PMguitar is direct to effect, psu is transformer using hard filtering and 9v regulator
Quote from: nordine on March 23, 2012, 07:44:44 PMheres the video:
Quote from: nordine on March 28, 2012, 06:36:42 AMThanks!Well, i messed again with the bias trimmer and, since its multiturn, it takes a lots of turns to "fall out of bias", and there i heard distortion and no flanging... but anyways, it works as suppossed
Quote from: nordine on March 28, 2012, 06:36:42 AMwill do the balance thing in my next EM, this one is eager to be played with
Quote from: nordine on March 28, 2012, 06:36:42 AMwhile boxing it, and after listening to a youtube demo of an old electric misstress (vertical box, green letters), i saw that it has HUGE range... unlike this one (EM9v)...
Quote from: nordine on March 28, 2012, 06:36:42 AMso then i put a 250k pot instead of the 100k it has... the range was maximized, but it got "bird chirping", clock issues i think? much like john holli's ultraflanger (a good flanger but plagued with noises that rendered it useless)... any ideas on how to expand range without getting the "chirp"? ...will post samples of all the noises im talking about, cheers!
Quote from: Thomeeque on March 29, 2012, 09:35:06 AMWhen adjusting BBD bias "properly" using sinus signal generator at the input and oscilloscope at the BBD output you'd find that there is basically one sweet spot (even this sweet spot actually moves little bit with the clock frequency so the chosen value is sort of compromise anyway) and that you loose it rapidly during small fragment of one turn of the bias multi-turn trimmer. On the other hand it is adjusted for relatively big input signal amplitude and with guitar you are usually significantly lower (with bass it may be different) and mainly: you probably don't mind little bit of distortion there (it just affects wet path, clear signal is still clear) anyway, it may be even interesting (we are not hi-fi purists here, quite opposite ).
Quote from: ricbox on July 13, 2012, 08:54:59 AMHow should I wire it following the scheme?
Quote from: Thomeeque on July 18, 2012, 08:11:41 AMQuote from: ricbox on July 13, 2012, 08:54:59 AMHow should I wire it following the scheme? Probably like this: For more precise answer I'd have to know exact pinout of your switch (it can be derived from the datasheet of the switch or determined by ohm-metter). T.
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