Author Topic: MXR Flanger redone (Read 52320 times)

Fix_Metal2 · « **Reply #60 on:** February 15, 2012, 03:58:11 PM »

Quote

Are your shielded cable grounds hooked up at one end or both?

OFC ground ended on one side only!
I put a 1458 into it just today, didn't try it yet however.
If that's not the prob, might be my layout, god damnit

Quote from: Fender3D on February 15, 2012, 11:38:23 AM

do say thanks and give proper credit to author when posting on other forum please...

As I already stated on the other forum, I just gave myself credit for doing the pcb layout (mine). YOUR schematic is included in that project as you gave it to the network.

oldschoolanalog · « **Reply #61 on:** February 15, 2012, 06:52:31 PM »

>It starts to crackle when the man is not in CW position. It crackles more and more when it's in CCW.<
IIRC, in this design full CCW=man pot wiper at ground. Full CW=man pot wiper at 15V. If this is the case your build crackles more as the man pot approaches ground and less as you move towards 15V.
MAYBE, you are picking up the hash & trash from ground? If that is the case, what could be putting it there? Hmmm...
Have you tried a different power supply yet?
Just trying to approach this logically.
Anybody else have thoughts about this?
PS: Do you have an o'scope or access to one?

Fix_Metal2 · « **Reply #62 on:** February 16, 2012, 05:16:10 AM »

I've just have a diy osc., one of those chines stuff with the small lcd.
Will try with my other stand-alone 15V psu. Actually I've always tried the flanger with my multiple psu, which has 3 different trafos with filtering, which give me 9V, 12V and 15V through 3 different LM317. Never really had a problem from this one.
A link to my project is here
I guess there's a few unrouted stuff in this version. Don't bother them, the project itself was a prototype to be verified. I verified it onto my board directly.

@Fender3D: What's that 100KA pot in your pic?

Fender3D · « **Reply #63 on:** February 16, 2012, 06:30:27 AM »

I ran out of 50Ks...

Quote from: oldschoolanalog on February 15, 2012, 06:52:31 PM

...
PS: Do you have an o'scope or access to one?

+1
check how clock changes, while "manualling" with width fully CCW.

pinio · « **Reply #64 on:** February 17, 2012, 06:59:13 AM »

My is in progress...

Fix_Metal2 · « **Reply #65 on:** February 17, 2012, 08:35:42 PM »

I just fixed some wrong value components, put absent-mindedly during the soldering.
It seems like there's no more noise in the output on the o'scope. I will check it out on tomorrow

Fix_Metal2 · « **Reply #66 on:** February 22, 2012, 04:36:41 AM »

I just can't get it work. This time it sometime flanges and sometime not, can't find the improper cable connection. Seemed to be the speed pot but it's not.

oldschoolanalog · « **Reply #67 on:** February 22, 2012, 02:07:57 PM »

Glad to see your edit.

Okay; >This time it sometime flanges and sometime not,...<
Try this. Take a known good 10uF NP cap and hold across the other LFO cap that's in there already. See if the sweep is now complete and works consistently.
Report back...

Fix_Metal2 · « **Reply #68 on:** February 22, 2012, 02:28:45 PM »

Quote from: oldschoolanalog on February 22, 2012, 02:07:57 PM

Glad to see your edit.

Quote

Try this. Take a known good 10uF NP cap and hold across the other LFO cap that's in there already. See if the sweep is now complete and works consistently.
Report back...

Will do. I'm going to get the voltages accross all the things too, just to help sorting this out....

pinio · « **Reply #69 on:** April 02, 2012, 03:04:17 PM »

Hi. I finished doing the effect. Behaves as if it was not called LFO signal. Do not respond to the speed potentiometer. I tried as U6: 1458 TL022. When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves. U2 I put LF353. It matter? Which voltage measured, and what to check?

CP5 and CP6 on schematic are 22uF, but on PCB are 15uF. Which value is correct?
U5 I use HEF4013BP.

Fender3D · « **Reply #70 on:** April 03, 2012, 06:58:58 AM »

Quote from: pinio on April 02, 2012, 03:04:17 PM

Hi. I finished doing the effect. Behaves as if it was not called LFO signal. Do not respond to the speed potentiometer. I tried as U6: 1458 TL022. When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves. U2 I put LF353. It matter? Which voltage measured, and what to check?

U6 may give some issues when subbed:
it may not oscillate, or
it may oscillate, but "out of center", center here will be set by R46//R48 (slightly more positive than half VCC)
I used 1458 here...

I don't understand what you mean by "When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves"
If you have echo your clock is working...
You may check if the freq. at 4013's pin 1 or 2 change with Width fully CCW and turning Manual.
If this is the behaviour, you definitely have issue with LFO (in your picture R46 looks like 10K instead of 15K, but this might be just the picture..)
BTW check the transistors pinout...

Quote from: pinio on April 02, 2012, 03:04:17 PM

CP5 and CP6 on schematic are 22uF, but on PCB are 15uF. Which value is correct?
U5 I use HEF4013BP.

Stock MXR were 15uF. I used 22uF... they will slow down your LFO, but I like longer SWOOSHHHHHHH

4013 will just provide the clock signal, not LFO... If your BBD works as a delay line, then xx4013xx it's ok

derhel1 · « **Reply #71 on:** March 08, 2013, 10:31:19 AM »

Quote from: pinio on December 23, 2011, 05:06:17 PM

OK, I finished. Would Yoy check?

PS. How close to oryginal is Your version (sound)? Do You have finally version?

Hi.
I'm new to this forum and I intend to build this one, with your help, of course.
I have two questions before I go.
1. Chip U6 (1458 amp) have pin 3 connected to ground? Does it has to be like that?
2. RV1 pot (Regen) have pin 2 connected to C13 and pin 3 connected to C10, but in the schematics (Wizard) it seems to be the other way.

I thank you all by your hard work to the community. Cheers.

armdnrdy · « **Reply #72 on:** March 08, 2013, 11:44:23 AM »

I built a working M117 flanger from the "wizard" schematics. They are verified. I would follow what is on those schematics and make adjustments as needed.

Fender3D · « **Reply #73 on:** March 08, 2013, 02:48:40 PM »

Quote from: derhel1 on March 08, 2013, 10:31:19 AM

1. Chip U6 (1458 amp) have pin 3 connected to ground? Does it has to be like that?

whoa,
I missed those pixels...
pin 3 goes to R41 upper pin.

Quote from: derhel1 on March 08, 2013, 10:31:19 AM

2. RV1 pot (Regen) have pin 2 connected to C13 and pin 3 connected to C10, but in the schematics (Wizard) it seems to be the other way.

Schem is verified (thanks Larry for your support...), just follow it.

derhel1 · « **Reply #74 on:** March 08, 2013, 03:52:27 PM »

Thank you for your kind support and advice, Fender 3D and armdnrdy. Here I go...

prover · « **Reply #75 on:** March 15, 2013, 08:29:12 AM »

Hi together,
I am about to build the MXR117 clone as with the retrofix for MN3007 and wanted to thank all the guys and especially Fender3D for the work done! I ahve created for me a pcb layout from the schematic posted in this thread. For everyone who is interested in here it is:

I am looking forward to finish my MXR117 clone!
stay tuned,
prover

GodSaveMetal · « **Reply #76 on:** October 15, 2013, 01:11:11 PM »

Quote from: prover on March 15, 2013, 08:29:12 AM

Hi together,
I am about to build the MXR117 clone as with the retrofix for MN3007 and wanted to thank all the guys and especially Fender3D for the work done! I ahve created for me a pcb layout from the schematic posted in this thread. For everyone who is interested in here it is:

I am looking forward to finish my MXR117 clone!
stay tuned,
prover

you have finished this FLANGER yet? please put all you have, BoM; layout wth values; modis please man!! thanks, I love FLANGERS

armdnrdy · « **Reply #77 on:** October 15, 2013, 04:30:49 PM »

Some words of advice.

It takes much more than connecting the dots from point A to point B to make certain circuits work properly.

I don't mean to deter anyone from trying but......There is plenty of information available online about routing circuit boards.
There are some rules to follow to achieve the best possible results.

I don't mean this in a demeaning manner but.....I would imagine that the above layout would have issues.

There are images posted above that depict the routing of the actual MXR Flanger board. Since the original IS a verified build, this can be used as a guideline.

I hope that no offence is taken.....I posted this to offer some guidance.

GodSaveMetal · « **Reply #78 on:** October 15, 2013, 06:47:24 PM »

Quote from: shadowmaster on September 20, 2010, 11:13:41 PM

Took a stab a this to keep the current flanger-mania going. I did not really change anything that much. Just the usual retrofit for the SAD1024 and integrated a 15V regulator with filtering caps on-board. Sounds good to me although I don't have an original at hand that I can compare with.

Based on the schematic at Shredaholic, I was able to get clock frequencies of 32KHz-996KHz using a 62pF for C21. A bit close to what oldschoolanalog have measured from his MXR flangers. But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all. So I used my ear instead for cap and clock trim adjustments. For C21, I ended up with 47pF and with proper clock trim adjustment, I was able to hear a good sweep transitions at slow speed settings. I measured the clock and got frequencies from 42Khz to 1.2MHz. I am by no means an expert at this so I'm not sure if I did get an optimal clock setting. I just adjusted it based on what is good to my ear.

This build is quite picky about opamps on the oscillator. The LM358 and RC4558 did not work for me. As far as I remember, the LM358 did not produce any oscillations and for the RC4558, it did oscillate but there was no modulation at all. To this date I still don't know the reason so I guess I need more reading and studying. TL082 and LM1458 both worked but I settled on the latter. And yeah by the way, no major noise issues encountered on this one.

Big thanks to the people involved in the references I used below!

Shredaholic MXR Flanger Project page
http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html

Fender3D's MXR Flanger MN3007 retrofit schematic and board
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910

9V Electric Mistress MN3007 retrofit thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78270.0

Below are some of the pics of my build:

This project has been mentioned as a possible candidate in one of those TZF threads here so hopefully this project can grow.

Please man there is no avaliable the links

of all your reference you post, please you will repost??? thanks!

Or someone who have it please repost IT! thanks a LOT

armdnrdy · « **Reply #79 on:** October 15, 2013, 09:14:35 PM »

Quote from: GodSaveMetal on October 15, 2013, 06:47:24 PM

Please man there is no avaliable the links of all your reference you post, please you will repost??? thanks!

Or someone who have it please repost IT! thanks a LOT

The board layout and the trace image posted by derhel1 is copied from Fender3D's build and schematic. I built a working MXR MN3007 flanger (routed my own board) from Fender3D's (wizard) schematic and by using original trace images as a guide.

You can build this flanger using the derhel1 or by purchasing a board from Madbean's site.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/

He has a project called the Collosalus which is a MN3007 MXR 117m flanger
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Collosalus/docs/Collosalus.pdf

All the information to build a MN3007 based MXR flanger is contained in this thread.

Fender3D's schematic:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910

News:

Author Topic: MXR Flanger redone (Read 52320 times)